rrunnertexas

OK, so sounds like this can be wired just like the diagram for positive ground?

Yes, I have spent 30 mins looking for a diagram and all are negative ground. OK, I'll keep trying to wrap my head around positive ground. It is not that difficult.

I would like to install a pair of vintage 6 volt fog lamps onto the bumper of my 1935 Plymouth, which is 6 volt positive ground. This can't be that difficult, but positive ground messes with my head. Can someone please send a relay wiring diagram for this? The relay is the 5 terminal type, designed for 6 volts. Thanks! David

Keith, I sent an email to both of the links you provided. Perhaps in a few days I will find paydirt! Fingers crossed. Thanks for the help!

Keith, So, it sounds like the gear box in this '35 PJ is early and smaller in size. Too bad all the good info on parts is hard to find now. Sniper, I was checking and hoping, but no numbers or identifying marks. Bearing supply house - hummmm...

Second photo showing seal gap to the actual shaft.

I pulled the steering box out of my 1935 Plymouth PJ since it felt just a touch loose and the bottom seal was leaking. With it all apart I'm ready to put it back together and found that the replacement bottom seal is too large to fit in the Gemmer box itself and there is a gap around the seal where in contacts the shaft. So, that tells me that the 1935 seal must be smaller than the 1936 and up seals. See attached photo. Left seal is new and too large, right is slightly mangled original. My hope is that someone out there has the correct seal or knows where I can get one. I'm stuck until then.

The transmission and driveline parts are still not installed into the car, so I made one more large format image on film of the group together on the bench. Maybe next month it will head back into the car!

westaus29 - I think you are on to something. Thanks for your help! The '35 manual describes #4 as a "drive pinion bearing washer" and it sure does look like it fits properly on the extra input shaft shown in the picture. Of course, the manual does not show a picture of the washer.

Sam - I would much rather do the work here at home and I do have a medium sized bench vise. The job will require a pipe or special tool to hold the bearing?

Things were going pretty well and I just about had the transmission back together when I found this clip or washer and can't remember where it fits. During disassembly, I took plenty of pictures to help, but not one pictures taken shows where this clip belongs. Isn't it always that way? The picture attached is of the old one, there is a new one in the small parts kit. So, where does it fit?

All of this help is sure appreciated. I'm sad to read that others have had to deal with low quality parts and find out after it is back together in the car. Nothing like doing the job twice! The Federal catalog page is very helpful. I see a few old stock bearings #1054 are available on ebay, so I think that is the route to go. After receiving one, it's back to the mechanic's shop to have them press off the noisy new bearing and press the Federal bearing on.

I'm finally getting this transmission together and questions have come along with a bit of frustration. Hopefully, someone with the same experience can pass along some advice. The new throwout beaing from Bernbaum's is pressed onto the bearing sleeve, however, when I rotate the bearning by hand it seems noisy. Is that normal or is grease from the grease line able to enter the bearing through the tiny hole? Or, are the replacement bearings just not of great quality? Also, the end of the grease line that connects to the bearing sleeve has me scratching the ever increasing in size bald spot on my head.... How does one fill the line with grease? I attached an image of the end of the line.

6 cylinder distributor and a long forgotten dwell meter, captured on 8x10 film.

Keith - great idea! I don't have any engine parts for our flathead 6, however, perhaps an image of a '60s cam, lifters and a valve.

I have a new NOS input shaft for the transmission in my 1935 Plymouth PJ. I'm trying to install the needle roller bearings into the input shaft from my new small parts kit. All but 1 of the bearings will sit. Measuring the old needles vs the new ones and both are .0216" each. Am I crazy to think the Mopar NOS shaft inside diameter is just a few thousands too small which will not let the bearings seat? What if I run it with one less needle bearing?

I do have an 8x10 contact printing frame, paper, chemistry, etc. However, for now scanning the big negatives and sharing digitally is as far as I have gone. The results with these vintage lenses have a "feel" to them, almost 3D, which makes me want to capture more. Hummm, what other car parts would be interesting to see on film?

The transmission is out of my Plymouth PJ and on the bench. I have waited and finally received replacent parts, etc. Before the assembly process begins, I made an image of the gears with a J. Lancaster "Extra Special" large format camera from about 1890. Captured on film with a vintage lens these gears look pretty cool, so sharing them here seemed appropriate.

Keith, Sure do appreciate all your video work - the information you are providing is so helpful and interesting. So, let's see, is there excitement for the next episode of Yellowstone? Nope, the next in the series of Keith's garage keeps me at the edge of my seat!

Los - The new clutch discs I have looked at for the Plymouth list them as all the same from about 1933 to the mid 1950's. I think the difference comes in if it is a Chrysler model which used a larger 10" disc. My thought now is maybe I should just "bite the bullet" and pay for a new clutch disc and re-use the pressure plate after it is cleaned up.

Los - that plate looks very nice and clean after the re-build. Yes, for sure the pilot bearing will be replaced and the clutch release bearing. I'm pretty sure it is the springs in the clutch disc that made the contact marks.

LeRoy - yes, that is my thought as well, however, if it is not that worn..... OK, the diameter of the pressure plate is 9 1/4" and I guess they made the disc just slightly larger at 9 1/2".

Los - Ahhhh, the new clutches are from China? Crap! Quality control might be all over the place. The damage confuses me - now that you point that out, it must still be making slight contact since there is no rust in the contacted area. The shield area is easy moved/bent back, so maybe that is all it needs?

Sounds like a bad pump or a leak in the fuel line prior to the pump which is sucking in air, instead of fuel.

Hummmm.... I think you are correct. Now, off to find a stencil kit.