rrunnertexas

Jerry - thanks for the advice. I gave up trying and will give it another go tomorrow. It can't be that hard, correct? lol

Keith, The photo of your car with the background is really nice. You sure do have a great place to drive your car and enjoy it! Your YouTube work has been most helpful and sure is appreciated!

A few weeks ago I removed the outside door handles from my 1935 Plymouth to have them re-chromed. They are back now and look great, but I'm having a difficult time trying to put them back into the door mechanism. There are 2 square holes that must line up to install - anyone with prior experience and tips with these? Pics attached.

Installed in my 1935 Plymouth PJ is an Allstate Sears car heater unit. Pulling it apart there was a handwritten date from 1962. The heater core leaks and needs replacement, but no luck so far finding one. Most of the heater core listings I have seen are for specific vehicles and not aftermarket heater boxes like this one. Any ideas where to search for a replacment by size/type? Has anyone ever had a heater core rebuilt at a radiator shop?

JBNeal - Looking a bit deeper at the felt, it goes all the way down into the "cup" part without any other seal. I read the link you sent which is very helpful. I'm thinking the Honda made seal will then fit in the place of where the felt is now. Correct? If so, then this may be the hot ticket to success and no more leak!

Last night I pulled the entire speedometer assembly from the transmission to take a look. What I found is what appears to be a fiber type material used as the seal instead of a rubber type. I'm assuming the newer rubber type is the replacement for the original fiber? Asking before an order for a replacement is made. Thanks! Pictures attached.

Excellent! Thank you for the experience and advice/help! Much appreciated!

Sniper, That is exactly the wording I was thinking but could not describe - Drive pinion oil seal. Thanks! The leak is coming from the pinion/cable and not the acutal case. So, where in the heck to find one of those seals - ebay, NOS?

Gear oil is leaking from the speedometer cable connection at the transmission my '35 Plymouth. I'm assuming there must be an O ring or seal someplace that is worn or missing. Looking for suggestions on how to get this fixed. Pics attached. Thanks!

Well, it is ordered from the ebay vendor, 18" width and might arrive next week. A fun project for sure. I'm thinking of using a trim adhesive to attach it to the metal board. Any suggestions?

Sure looks like the material is the same thing from the ebay vendor and Robert's. So far, it appears that this material is the solution unless you have big $$ for the original type. Rodney - Had not thought of power coating with texture, but in my opinion, rubber on the boards will look nicer. After pulling one side off, I see that the very front edge is about 17" wide - the ebay vendor offers an 18" width which might work well.

The original running board material on my 1935 Plymouth PJ is in need of replacement. Some searching showed a few companies that make new, original type material and they look great, except for the big price tag ($800 and up). Is there a lower cost option for replacement, maybe cut your own from a similar looking material that still looks nice? Thanks, David

I have read several threads about milling a cylinder head, most seem to agree that .050" is a safe and effective number for a bump in compression and maybe a little more power. I purchased a nice looking factory head for the 201 in my 1935 Plymouth. After careful measurement, it holds about 90cc of volume (water). With that volume, I'm thinking that this head may have never been cut. Before heading out to the machine shop, can anyone provide some thoughts with their prior experience? Is that 90cc chamber about stock in volume? Head casting number is 632955-1 which indicates 1935-1941 years. It also has the letters "PJ" cast as well. Thanks!

Sniper - that is an interesting read for sure, full of information. When I get to the point of swapping the cylinder head I will need a new head gasket. I see many that have the "notch" in front for the bypass. The head on the car now and the one I'm looking at do not have the "notch". So, I'm assuming there is a different head gasket available for this application?

Sniper - can you explain further about the bypass? Jerry - very correct, who knows what these old parts have been through?

Bryan - thanks for that info. The head sould be essencially the same for the 201, 218 and 230, correct? Looks like .050" is a safe number to get compression into the upper 7s.

The engine in my 1935 Plymouth PJ has engine code P11 meaning it is from a 1941 Plymouth as I understand it. I am wanting to replace the cylinder head as it has lots of pitting and does not look that great, plus I would like to put on a head that has been milled a bit to raise the compression. Reading a bit it appears that a .050" cut is a way to get a bit more, but not sure how much. Since flathead motors are new to me, I'm asking those with the knowlege if the pictured cylinder head that is for sale would fit the bill. It does have "PJ" cast into the head, meaning it is from 1935? Anything in particular to watch out for when installing? Thanks in advance! David

Booger, Yes, that vacuum port is there and working.

Allbiz, I used a die grinder with a carbide bit to open the holes just a bit and the carburetor did bolt back on and seems to run fine, as before, but without exhaust noise. Rich, which small holes for a governor do you mean?

New manifold.

Since the original intake and exhaust manifolds were cracked and leaking on my PJ, I found a nice looking used set of manifolds, cleaned them up and painted, ready for the install. All bolted up well until it was time to connect the Carter B&B carburetor. The original manifold has a carburetor stud spacing about 3 1/4" and the "new" manifold has a spacing of about 3". At the moment, there is not a way to bolt the carburetor to the manifold. Now what? Is there a different carburetor base plate that will swap out to the smaller stud spacing? Maybe an adapter plate? Help! Pictures attached.

Knuckle, Well, the one listed may not be correct then. A photo of the correct one would be perfect, that way I can keep an eye out for one. Thanks!

I would like to have the original type of tire changing jack in my 1935 Plymouth PJ as it is missing. Can anyone with experience tell me if this listing on ebay is the jack that is correct? https://www.ebay.com/itm/224504941075?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Thanks, David

There is a nut under the center exhaust port... did you find that one and remove it?

James, sure looks great! Booger, so it is decent and will fit with a bit of adjustment. What I like to hear. Carpet is on the radar now.