desoto1939

don: So sorry to hear that the car has now become an issue becasue of your health. Might also suggest that you list the car with the National Desoto club rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

i like the swamp cooler on the rear door. rich

here is the link on ebay for the cummutator end for your starter maw2002f: https://www.ebay.com/itm/184566150184?epid=1630569240&hash=item2af8fff428:g:tdwAAOSw7elfyolr this unit was use on desoto from 1938-50 same for dodge dodge truck 41-50 ply canadian 38-42 and 46-50 rich Hartung

ratbailey: Now that you have tapped the bearing I do not think you would want to install the commutator back onto the starter. The shaft then will not pit properly. Purchase the NOS end that is on Ebay and install it and be done with the repair. I went out and looked at the starter on my 39 Desoto and as I thought there is an oil cap to lubricate this bushing and felt washer. On your unit I di dnot see an oil cap. Every 6 months you should be putting oil in the oil cap on both the starter and the generator to keep these bushing oiled. This is why they were a permanent non removable item. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

OK i might have an answer for everyone on this topic. I was reading on starter motor for the Mopar. Motor Auto repair 1935-53 edition. Quote " form the commutator end: "Where the bearing is replaceable, it should be pressed out into place with the correct arbor, as the arbor determines the inside diameter of the bearing. If the bearing is not removeable, replace the complete head." So in this case the bearing is not removable then replace the commutator head. Having the repair manuals always comes to the rescue to explain what to do. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Plymouthy what tool do you use to remove the bushing? I know that on the pilot bushing, which this is similar to, the pilot bushing is a pressure fit in the hole. There is a special Miller tool that is threaded on on. I have both of these tools but on the picture that the poster is showing these tools will not work becasue of the tacked washer. Rich

Plymouthy. The bushing that he is showing in his pictures is tack welded into an outer covering. So you would have to remove the tack weld get the new bushing then tack weld it back in and hopefully not ruin the outer flange. If youhave the tools to do this then tat is great but if you do not then what is the cost of a repair versus the cost and time to replace NOS commutator end. rich

ratbailey: Hope you received the documents regarding your generator. Look closely at the various gens that were used for your car then look at the tag on your car. Then look at the appropriate commutation end number from the lsiting from the Autolite page. Go on Ebay and see if you can find a NOS. I would do that first to correct the problem and then tinker around with the old unit. At least then you can drive the car. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

on my look up is shows additioal cost of $62. just did the same path that you posted. rich

Sniper look at the lisiting closely Cost $95 and note the Addiaitonal cost of $62 for a grand total of $157. Also you get to add a couple of pictures for free with Ebay. He has not taken the time to show a picture of the item, WHY. Maybe it is a scamm. Here is a nother good one a vendor shows the inside the glove box tire pressure decal for the Dodge which is the same for the other MoPar family cars. He is listing it atver $100. I have contacted the seller and all his listings have the same price and his reply is that this is just a placeholder and they will be adjusting the price but they never chnage the price to be the truce selling cost. I think some sellers never do any kind of searching to ebay to see what other vedors are selling the same item. Ex ample Headlight lens for my 39 Desoto see them range from $25-to over $100 per lens go figure. Rich Hartung

Tom and T120: I feel your pain in what you are saying. Just look at how the prices for a lot of the items have gone up over the past several years. For some unknow reason the dealers that have the old MoPar parts have now discovered that these parts have a higher value or selling factor. The older Mopar parts are now catching up with the rest of the antique car parts. Also have to remember that with the GM and Ford stuff you had more options and parts being manufactured for them and also repro parts. You can basically build a Model A from a catalog where with our MoPar cars have to go to get either good quality used parts and or NOS. So if you have some specific parts for your MoPar that are very scares and of limited numbers the costs goes up to purchase them. So as everyone in the world tries to purchase as cheap as possible and then seller higher, but the market will only bear what it can and then you sit on the parts until they decode to lower the price.. I have collected parts over the years that I might make some profit on them some such as the Detroit U joints for the Pin and Trunnion bodies and internal parts. But most of these were at a very resonable cost just to have spares incase I needed them. But I will not give them away hope to make some profit when sold. But when people are complaining about the repro items from China being of such poor quality and then cost is not cheap then what are you paying for, bad parts or pay more and get the good old original USA made quality parts. Rich Hartung

Keithb7: I know what you are saying.. How far up can these prices go. There will be a point where no one could afford the parts. I see the samething with all of these High Performance Cuda and Hemi engine cars. With the advent of electric cars coming in about 15 years are the people that paid those high prices ever going to break even or even lose when they try to sell the cars again. I guess there is a seat for everyone but how far can they continue to rise is the real question. Rich Hartung

If you send me your email address I will copy the page out of the autolite catalog on Generator with the information that you need to replace the commutator end rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

This is the commutator eng of the generator. I think whne these bushing wore out they just replaced the commutator end as a unit. It was a whle lot cheaper to get the entire new part then spend the time an effort to pull the bearing press in the new bearing. Just went to the parts depart and had the NOS item in hand then put the new part on the generator and reinstalled the unit back inthe car. rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Tom, That was a fantastic price that you got the Sisson chokes for on Ebay. The question is what does everyone think one of these chokes should sell for. We all have seen the annual price increase on just regular items in the stores and also for current car and truck repairs. So when you think of a part that was produced from the mid 30's to the early 1950's and were only used on the MoPar vehicles the supply not is getting smaller every day and year. When you see these items listed by the major parts suppliers of MoPar parts and they are the ones that have more access to these parts and they put a price of $175-$225 based on the unit and also based on the year that it will fit the smaller parts collector has to say to themselves why should I just give the same item away at say $50-75. I know it is hard to ask someone to pay the current market prices but if a person that is looking for a Sisson choke has not taken their time even to go to a swap meet and look for a NOS or even a good used one and another person has taken their time, money and has purchased some of these items then the seller has a right to charge what the current rates are. They have done the leg work and have laid out the cash for the spare parts. So when someone has not done anything and then just wants to go to a catalog and get the part then they have to pay the going rate. I have seen the MoPar and especially the DeSoto parts starting to climb higher and higher every month. I have been in the hobby and collecting for 34 years and I knew from the beginning that when the parts were cheap to get them because the supply is declining everyday and the costs are going up ever day. So my advise is if you see a part that will fits you car and it is a very good price then buy it now because after you walk by that vender it might not be there when you come back later on in the day. I have found great buys at Hershey and other Swap meets because I knew the parts and also when you see the prices on Ebay or even in catalogs you start to look for the great deals. You might not need the part today but when you do you do not know if it is even available or even the cost and can guarantee it will have gone up in price. Several years ago i stop at a vendors site at Hershey and a gentleman found a NOS piece of trim that he needed for his car. The buyer said outloud so that everyone could hear him that this is the last piece he needed for the car. The seller had $35 on the piece. The buyer offered $25. The seller said the cost is 35. The buyer kept pushing the seller for a lower price and everytime the buyer opened his mouth the seller increased the item by $5.00. It got to th epoint that the cost was around $70. The seller asked for them back. The seller then took the piece and snapped in in half and then told the buyer that he di d not care that he did not make the sale. The buyer was totally upset. But you can only push so hard and the seller has the right to refuse your offer. So I learned a valuable lesson that day make a fair offer and if the seller does not want to negoiate and you really need the part then you have to pay the asking price. If you want to join in on the dance then you have to pay the admission price. So many local sellers look at Ebay to get an idea on a selling price and they might or might not adjust their price to be lower or might even be higher but the owner of the part sets the selling price and if someone wants to pay it and if they are happy then everyone is happy. Just my $1.00 worth of input and I have been vending at Hershey for 30+ years so I do know the game that is being played. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I am the one that had posted the orginal information I di d not know it was downloaded. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

according to my Thompson Chassis parts book for your car the numbers are Right had assembly ES60 right and Left Left hand assembly ES131 right and left. this also covers from 1940-54 Plymouth Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

This rate is not what the seller is charging it is what Ebay is charging. When you are from a foreign country and you select the United Kingdom the Ebay system automatically enters the shipping fee or $271 dollars. Ebay is the issue not the seller. Another person also had the same issue and we figured out the reason why the high shipping costs. Do not blame the seller it is Ebay. Try it where is states ships worldwide on the ebay listing then go to the next screen and select a foreign country and then see what happens to the shipping costs. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

OK I willbe attaching pages from my power point presentation that i did on the sisson choke there are 27 pages worth of information. I do have the sisson choke testing stand and also a 2nd one but that is just missing the thermometer. Also have all of the adjusting tools and several of the setup rod pins. Since the file are larger than the limit now set up on the forum if you want the information send me an email and I will send the documents to you. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Marcel the heat riser is not connected to the choke and does not effect the Sisson choke. The heat riser was set up so that the base of the carb would not ice over during cold weather cars that have cold winter weather. It directed the heat up to the base of the carb to get it warm and stop the carb from icing over. When this happens the car will stall and idle rough inthe winter. As the fuel is vaporized it will then ice up the base of the carb.

Yes everyone is correct on the sisson choke. It is important to note that you do need the gasket under the choke body. But do not ever bend the bi-metal spring of the choke. If you do it will then mess up the function of the choke. I do have the sisson choke testing stand and the adjusting tools. I also have several of the factory pins or rods that are used to set the choke up properly. I will try to upload some printour from a seminar that I did on these chokes at the AACA annual meeting. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Send me you home email and then I can send you the page the file is to big to post. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Wow Thats even bigger then Hershey here in the east Coast. Do they have alot of venders or is it just a car show? Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Check where the breaker plate come out of the dizzy body. Under this flat spot were the wire fromt he coil attaches there should be a piece of red sort of looking bakelite maternial. This prevent the breaker plate from grounding out the dizzy. On some of the older dizzy' they had a rubber insert in the body where the breaker plate comes through the body. This small piece of rubber was also used to prevent the plate from grounding. Check you dizzy at that location. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Are you sure the dizzy is an IBR-4001. I looked inmy Autolite catalog that goes from 38-54 and can not see that even listed as a dizzy. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com