Woodie

Do you have a heater in the car - once when I rebuilt and engine I couldn’t get it to cool properly because there was no coolant in the heater core and it provided a place to absorb pressure so water wasn’t pumping properly through engine. If you have a heater connected be sure it is full of coolant and try running your heat to get all the air out of the system.

Thanks for all the advice on this thread I started. I ended up purchasing an original factory pump (date stamped on casing 1946) and it was rebuilt several years ago as I can see some wear on lever tip. It is working fine and I only have used non-ethanol gas so what do you think about the life expectancy of the old fashion diaphragm? My previous 1948 Chrysler I drove for 20 years (pre-ethanol gas era) And never had a pump problem. Thanks

Thanks for all the responses. The failed pump was aftermarket and the pin was only held in by a tiny round ring set in the groove at both ends of the pin. Really a poor design compared to original NOS one. Will rebuild my original one that thankfully the first owner put in the trunk in 1958.

I was driving and engine stopped so first thing I checked was the fuel pump and found the pin sticking out so obviously no rocker arm pumping the diaphragm. Took off the pump today and spring has fallen in the oil pan and internal damage to pump body so need a new pump. Thinking the spring in the oil pan will not be a problem nd maybe when I change oil I can use a magnet to get it out. Any body have any recommendations for a new pump. The original one that came when the car was new is in a box in the trunk and could be rebuilt I suppose.

Went to take off arm rest on my 48 Woodie door and after removing one small screw under it to expose the bottom of rest I see no bolts or screws to remove it off the door panel. Can anyone enlighten me as to how to remove it?

Thanks Sniper - another thought was that these shorter plugs were for heads that were flatter from the top head surface to the well the spark plug fits in - as new design heads came out with deeper spark plug wells they raised the height so plug wires wouldn’t short out and jump to the head. The packaging of the shorter plugs look like they were for maybe 30’s Mopars.

I added this device and it works great to blue tooth from. My phone.https://www.retroradioshop.com/products/am-transmitter-and-bluetooth-adapter-for-retro-vintage-or-antique-radios-1

I came across some NOS Auto-lite A-5 spark plugs (factory recommended originally for my 48 Chrysler). Although both old and new have A5 on them there is a plug height difference. - would the shorter height one run hotter since the spark path is shorter? The shorter one has a military spec number on the Auto-Lite box. comments?

Can you replace shackle bushing (4 on each side) without removing springs? Jack stands on frame and floor jack on axel? For 48 Chrysler?

I just look at the amp gauge - needle moves with each flash so I know it is on. Indicator light is very dim to see.

Lots of torque with the straight 8. My 48 T@C convertible has no problem going up a 7 degree sloped hill in 3rd close to my house and yes can run all day comfortable at 60-70 but by no means is that the top speed. Agree though that unless you use the low range getting to 35-40 is lethargic

If anyone needs that ferrule I have one to give away for free. I bought one for my new tank and didn’t need to use it.

Here is engine. My files are too big to load on this site 3MB maximum

Going to do a tuneup and wondering what you guys are setting your timing at with the gas we have today as it is much different. My 323 straight 8 says 2 ATDC but think it could be set better for todays gas. Any recommendations? Also I just realized my new gas tank has no filter in it like the original factory ones so where is the best place to add a fuel filter? I have seen them at the carb or in line on the fuel line on the engine but leary about having it close to spark or exhaust manifold. Thinking about under the car in fuel line.

Domiest - nice project car - if you need to check any thing that was original - my 1948 car is an unmolsted one owner 38K mile car. Original paint chrome and wood never refinished. Took the engine out and rebuilt it and detailed the engine compartment. Lot of work to build one of these as factory picture shows I colorized.

Dodgeb4ya - I enjoyed your write up on removing the fuel gauge . My 1948 Chrysler T @ C has the same problem but am wondering you said in the last picture “one stuck gauge”. Mine is exactly like the picture apparently stuck at 160 as it doesn’t move when driving. When you said stuck did you mean you couldn’t move the needle at all or that the either had leaked out and the gauge no longer moved but you could physically move the needle. Someone told me that when they fail the needle goes back to left side but mine is as your picture shows in the middle position. I am not finding any script lettering NOS gauge to buy so have not taken mine out yet but it would be great if I could get the needle moving by a bit of oil on the shaft

Wow never knew there was supposed to be that 5 inch spring - mine has been missing probably since almost new. - a picture IS worth a thousand words. Thanks

The engine number is stamped on the frame just behind the drivers rear wheel housing towards gas tank filler tube. Serial number is in drivers front door hinge pillar

My temp gauge has apparently quit as it stays at 160 cold or hot car on or off. Does that mean it is probably developed a leak in the bulb contents? Or is there also an electrical component to it - bad ground for instance. Gauge doesn’t move in either direction.

Impossible to get my hands back behind dash but managed to get top clock screw out bottom one needs a slim offset screwdriver (Amazon to the rescue). Thought I could push clock up and out but no way to avoid loosening that bottom clip. Got my phone in and finally got a picture

How do I remove the clock from the dash - I took out the top screw but there must be another at the bottom - perhaps a clip that holds it in place - Impossible to get my hands in there so can anybody tell me what holds the bottom of the clock to the dash. Anyone have a picture?

Forgot to say for 48 Chrysler New Yorker

does anyone have an extra used one of this tab I circled - this stays in the collar when shifting to reverse? It is a hardened part and just one bolt on the steering column holds it.. My car keeps not going into reverse and I am afraid if I remove it and try and bend it it may break as it is probably hardened steel ( I squeezed it with vice grip into collar but just sprung back) The part is supposed to be in the collar (down where the yellow dot is) but slips out when trying to shift to reverse.

You forgot to put the rotor back on?

Anybody know the red paint code or source for the red emblem and trim pieces that used red highlighting on at least 1946-48 Chrysler?