wagoneer

I replaced my fuel lines recently. there are companies that make new oem style fuel lines . Easy to replace. I have a fuel filter because my original tank was replaced . I would love to have an oil lite filter but it doesn’t seem you can get those anymore save for a few rare NOS fuel tanks .

Diving deep into the technicals, the Chrysler et al engineers thought through cold, and long standing starts. my carb is also frequently wet , and I actually saw gas splash out from what I guess is the accelerator or something . Even so, my car fires up almost instantly. If it’s sitting it requires about 3 seconds with the choke while the gas gets pulled through the line (air leaks in your fuel line also cause problems due to poor vacuum). I’m scheduling a rebuild regardless. I recently replaced my mechanical fuel pump and that made all the positive difference. I don’t use my electric anymore. I found the electric plus mechanical put too much fuel pressure (>6 psi) do I put an inline regulator . Hard starts have more to do with state of the carb, and your engine timing. you should check whether you have the original gas tank ; if so, then you don’t need a fuel filter as you have an oil lite filter in the tank that doesn’t it for you. one last thought — you should the original drivers manual - they do specify A single pump of the peddle presumably to wet the carb

Those truck engines are monsters. I found a great set of articles on the imperial club pages - http://www.imperialclub.com/Articles/26-28Sixes/index.htm on the six, it’s the last 300+ Cu in car engine. in theory it would fit our “latter-day” models.

In NC, you can still buy ethanol free gas at some stations. It’s a bit more expensive but I run only ethanol free gas. is that not an option around the country? There are sites dedicated to compiling those ethanol free stations.

Wow! That image is a bit low res, but those blocks must have had a full inch extra in height in stroke! Would these bigger engines be drop-in replacements for our humble "regular" engines? Everything else seems the same (compression). With so much combustion volume, you'd think there would be a lot more horsepower generated. They are super torque-y. In comparison, the 400 cu in small block chevy made 265 gross, and nominal 150. Why don't these engines generate a ton of horsepower?

According to the flathead wiki , in the early days the 6s and 8s were humongous! The 6 got as big as 310 cu in's ( 5 liters ), and the 8 as big as 385 (6.3 liters). Somewhere on this forum was a discussion on how to get the block displacement so large, and it was a copy-cat block. Seems there are beefier versions of our venerable flathead all the way back to 1926-1928 that have disappeared, or become so rare that few have them or the parts to fix them. Anybody have one of these older blocks? Are they very different? I am constantly amazed at the variety of uses the Chrysler 4, 6, and 8 have gotten through the years. The same block can power everything from a generator to a military land or marine transport. That 1928 Imperial Series 80L is super sharp. I wouldn't mind having that as a second car with its drop top.

I agree @Sam Buchanan. Thinking it through while reading the responses, somehow it doesn't matter whether the BB-1 is the best or worst is neither here nor there. It works very well for cruising in my C38. For my needs, it does the job well enough. It's simplicity is actually a boon for me to learn without screwing it up.

I inherited an electric pump, and a failing mechanical pump. The electric pump worked well but somehow I still had issues. I think the bigger problem is the risk of too much fuel pressure and overwhelming the carburetor. I installed a new mechanical, and my Windsor runs fantastic on mechanical only. I still have the electric as a backup, but I installed a fuel pressure regulator that limits output to 6psi (max the B&B can handle), because I was flooding it with the mechanical + electric.

For those who may have replaced their B&B on a fluid drive vehicle, how did you, or did you not, compensate for the electronic dashpot, and kickdown. I'm guessing you also did away with the Sission automatic choke? Maybe the upgrade is to go the i8 stromberg to keep the functionality, while getting better air.

I had a very interesting conversation with a carburetor repair expert today. I shall not mention their name/shop, but they are legit. He told me that, in his opinion, the Carter BB-1 is the worst carburetor ever designed, and that he wouldn't even try to rebuild it, but throw it out and replace it with the Stromberg version that's on the straight-8. His stated reasons include that the Ball brothers that built it designed it originally for Chrysler, and later went to work for Chrysler did a poor job designing it. One point that was brought up was the accelerator pump never really worked properly on the car. He didn't go into many other details, but my interest was piqued. This person undoubtedly has worked on hundreds, if not thousands, of carburetors new and very old, and thus, I would assume, must have very good relative perspective and insight across historic and modern carburetors. I myself have done a lot of reading on how the B&B works, but I don't have relative experience across other carburetors, and I'm about to rebuild mine to learn about it. That all said and couched properly, what do others on this forum think? It was a rather provocative statement, but I'm curious for the merits and demerits to be discussed.

Thank. you @desoto1939 for bringing the Admin's attention. I just had the experience on the car side where I couldn't click on the links, and I needed to reload just to view this forum itself (Chrome MacOS). While we are on the topic of weird viewing of listings -- Viewing car-side listings is fine, but frequently when I can only go to recent postings on the flathead truck forum by selecting it from the main page. When I go to the truck forum , the listings are really out of order and no where near the most recent listings (this time at this moment seems to be an exception, but new listings don't show up first at all). Notice that listings are january, sept 2020, sept 2019, jan 2019, 2017...

Ford has said in their introduction of the electric mustang, that Ford sees a huge market for electric vehicle resto-mods. Ford is building 'electric crate motors' for that purpose. Many companies are cobbling it together now, or from wrecked Teslas. That likely means there will be a very healthy electric-conversion thread on p15-d24.com in the future.

Alas, that future is set, but let us enjoy our hobbies now and for the foreseeable future. Fear not, for there are future classics already made, and being made for us to enjoy, and satisfy that tinkering electro-mechanical inclination. Electric vehicles will inevitably become the dominant form of passenger and commercial transportation in the next 30 to 50 years for all the reasons that any technology becomes dominant - it becomes better than all those around it for any number of factors. I, for one, welcome our new electric overlords, and hope they come bearing stock in the power company. That brings about a bit of sad inevitability - the diminishing and eventual loss of a supply chain of gasoline engine parts, skill set, demand to repair/create gasoline components, and possibly even accessibility to gasoline in volume to maintain our classic/antique vehicles. We are only able to enjoy our hobbies because of a continuity of skill and supply parts stretching back to 1885, but I doubt we will have so many NOS parts in 75 years time (3 generations after electric vehicles become dominant). By then our C38s, P15s, and D24s will be as far away from memory as the Civil War is from us now, or the dominance of the steam locomotive. Though there will likely still be a few Model-Ts running around. You can still enjoy classic horse-drawn carriages, steam engines, early airplanes, even early automobiles (< 1930s), but not without a level of skill and resources that is becoming scarcer and more inaccessible to the lay hobbyist every year.

1/4 credit. Those are close and related to one of the items: 1. Manual Choke instead of the Sisson choke. Somewhere along the way the Sesson must have died and been replaced with the Dodge manual choke. They installed those bars to hold the choke wires, and left the auto-choke electrical connection (The spade) hanging loose. 2. Blocked off, or removed manifold heat valve Look down at the bottom under the carburetor, and they have removed or blocked off (not sure yet which) the flap for the manifold heat valve. Just a square bolt.

Here are the two on 40s models. The later ones have in the manifold itself as pointed out above. An aside, 10 points for the contestant who can spot two strange “gifts” in the picture from the previous owner.

the more I look at my carb the more I realize something is wrong with it, and it’s time for a rebuild. For mine, it seems the extra resistance on the engine from fluid coupling clutch half not spinning in the m5 transmission when brake engaged requires extra rpms that the carb is not responding to including dash pot and maybe the spark advance. I had to up my idle to 750 for it to not stall out. A few days later I found my carb wet from gas...

The carter bb-1 has a port at the base that is a 3/8 NPT Thread connection. You can connect a plastic 3/8NPT with a barb that you can find at any local hardware store to connect it solidly to your vacuum gauge. You'll also want to connect a tachometer, dwell meter to your engine so that you can first set the correct idle, and then set the air/fuel mixture based on the vacuum. See videos below on how to connect them. Read up in the MTSC the background info and instructions, and how to interpret the vacuum readings and your valves/cylinders. Story of the Carburetor http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/010.pdf - page 22 Interpreting the results on your readings can be found here - http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/027.pdf - page 14 Steps: 1. Set the initial air/fuel mixture to all in minus 2 whole turns Online there is a bit of confusion about setting air/fuel mixture vs idle but the confusion stems from starting points. You should setup your initial air/fuel mixture by turning the air/fuel mixture all the way in (don't do it too hard, just till it's snug), then turn it back two turns. 2. Set the idle per factory manual -- Chrysler C38 manual says 450 RPMs. This may need to be higher depending on condition of your pistons/valves, and/or carburetor. 3. Set the air/fuel mixture for maximum vacuum . You’re looking for a solid steady vacuum, or if you can’t get solid then maximum. Swinging readings can mean valve, piston, timing, or carb issues, and a whole lot more fun time on the weekends. At 450, I get about 21 inches of vacuum, but at 600 RPMs I was getting as high as 24 inches of vacuum! How to connect a 12-volt tachometer / dwell meter to a 6-volt positive ground system. Key is you have to halve the RPM reading to get the actual reading. I also like this video and one from our own here on the forum Keith. Also there is an interesting point about setting idle under load that Tony brings up, that is important for automatic/semi-automatic systems. To compensate for a problem with stalling when I stopped under load, I performed the above steps while the car is in High and with brake engaged (rear wheels elevated)! Probably start with just at normal idle to start, and see if you have problems. I later realized I may have a carb leak that I was compensating for.

I am trying to figure out what places to start investigating to find the source of what I perceive as engine drag when I place it into Low or High gear, and just have my foot on the brake to keep it still (like at a stop light, or just about to start. Car practically stalls, the oil pressure drops, and the generator output reduces. I put in new gapped plugs, idle adjusted with vacuum gauge and RPM. I put carb cleaner in, and engine cleaner. I did have the issue of oil bath cleaner leaking found elsewhere on this forum, and I checked my dwell is a bit high (39/40), but I don't think those things explain why there seems to be a big drag on the engine when put into gear. Drives fine in gear . Here's a video:

Take a look at this MTSC all on the Clutch. It gives lots of good tips especially in getting it back together working well. http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/016.pdf

This MTSC on the clutch has all the details, and great diagrams. http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/016.pdf

Hello, I need some help identifying this noise . It’s got a high pitch to it and is repeating. I tested for, and ruled out main bearings and rod bearings through the disable plug method described in mtsc. there is quite a lot of carbon buildup in the cylinders and the plugs were all black , but the engine generally runs well . This was after I sprayed it and let soak with carbon cleaner . no blue smoke out the tail. I tested compression and have 100+ on 5/6 cylinders and 95 on one. I suspect a noisy tappet here I think the carbon is from running too rich. The idle was set to 600 until this weekend when I adjusted it to 450 along with appropriate fuel mixture. any good way to just spray into cylinders to remove carbon buildup?

That belongs to a 1947 or 1948 fluid drive Chrysler Windsor 6 cylinder . the ev2 range have the electronic dash pot and the electronic kickdown. you can dee the round electrical connection for the dash pot in your first pic at the top, and the dash pot bulge. There’s a screw on the opposite side you connect you kickdown connection to.

Hello, An alternator does sound like an appealing upgrade as power is always an issue with the current generator. The howardEnt site looks promising, and has some very high amperage output alternators. I found this one that is also a GM conversion -- https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_24/6-Volt-Alternators-Positive-Ground.htm A question for the forum - is there any disadvantage to purchasing a higher amperage alternator? The HowerEnt site offers up to 105 amps. How does this affect the stock voltage regulator? I'm curious if you can get at least a couple of amps out of the cigarette lighter? Would be nice to plug in a usb charger, if a 6v charger exists.

Okay, I've figured it out...now that I have a parts book for 46-48 C38 (Must have alongside the shop manual). 1948 and earlier (not sure about 49), the backup switch indicated in the 48 wiring diagram is part number 1157855 -- a physical knob on the dash somewhere referenced in #13 by@chrysler1941 1949 or possibly 1950, the switch was converted into a transmission mounted automated switch part number 1300644 -- a switch mounted on the transmission actuated by the reverse linkage (see #11 above). To be original to my car -- 1948 Windsor -- Then I need the dash mounted knob 1157855. @chrysler1941 Would you mind sharing a picture of how the knob is mounted on your dash and where it would have been mounted from the dealer? Also, Would you share a template or tracing of the bracket so I can make one too please? I can't find the bracket anywhere, but probably now I was looking in the wrong generation of vehicles...

Won't the 12v affect the electric shifting solenoids/governer in the m5/m6 transmissions? I'm worried about burning out other items? Maybe if I pull the 30 amp fuse, that woudl be a good precaution?