maddmaxx1949

I'm running into this as well with my first painting project. I want to prime some parts to get ready for paint so they don't rust, but It's unlikely I'll get to painting them soon. Is there a recommended procedure for preserving? I'm in a really humid area and coating it with an oil isn't particularly effective.

I think it's a Hercules 4cyl? And good call on the gauges I have a rat rod that could use them. I canned ebay since they changed their selling policy. You have to link your bank account to them now and they hold your money longer ? . I was thinking of moving to Bonanza or ebid but if you know of any good car/junk selling alternatives I'm open to suggestions. I'm always into something. Bought a 1930 Alemite grease bucket for a cool buck that I'm trying to sell or some Chevy (it's not mine I promise) drop springs etc. Edit: If it was a flat six I'd be for sure keeping it.

I am also on board with rebuilds, it's just hard to justify if you are getting a good lifespan out of a new one that is a similar cost.

It does not turn over. I believe I have the compressor clutch disengaged so it should I would think if it was free. I looked up ford industrial engines and I came back with a Hercules? I've never heard of one but thats what it looks like to me.

Looks like some kind of straight 4. Gas I believe.

Bit of a side track today as dad brought home an old air compressor someone had around for scrap. Posted about it in Off Topic as I had never heard of a Davey. Looks old and don't really want to scrap it but the motor is seized I suspect and don't have time for it. Giving it a small chance before sending it off to rustier pastures. Good to get my attention off the car occasionally to prevent burnout

Hi all, wondering if any of you out there collect or have any knowledge of old Davey air compressors. got this one from a family friend, and looks to be from the 60's or so. any info would be appreciated. It was got for scrap but I'd really like to justify saving it or giving it to somebody who would. Plus it's only got 1,100 hours on it according the gauge. I do suspect the motor is locked up from sitting.

Well I have my fingers crossed it lasts longer than 40 miles. My confidence in Chinese products is already low so would I be surprised? no. I try and buy American if I can.

I'll probably need mine to rust to match the rest of the car ?

Done a bit of a mish mash of things this last couple weeks. Lot of rain, little bit of cold (a bit tired of that) which delayed some progress. New water pump installed and reused the Brass WDT which was in great shape so back in it went. Replaced my thermostat with a working one I had lying around after the one I had didn't pass the pot test. So at this point, the engine can go into the car. I have the driveshaft and conversion spicer conversions already so it shouldn't be too long before I can at least move it in and out of the way. I need to address the linkage for sure but I can do that a little at a time. Pretty good at jury-rigging things for a temporary fix and I imagine that's what I'll do just to get it moving. Working on the driver side rocker as the passenger side is built and I just have to press the recesses in and weld then onto the body to get it stable.

Thanks Sniper, I need to add visiting the sniper's nest to my checklist before I ask. Lots of good information there.

Thank you! That makes sense, and the Gates I read, have sealed bearings so that definitely added to my confusion. I'll try and clean up the threads on the supplied plug and get it to work. I suspect they are a bit janky as the female ones on the pump look fine.

After perusing the forum for a while, I haven't found the answer I was looking for. I have a new Gates 42554 water pump for a '52 218. It came with a threaded Allen plug and a couple holes I'm not sure about. First and foremost, the hole on the side of the shaft in the first photo for what I assume could be a grease fitting? It's not tapped for one and I have a hard time believing they'd want to leave it open as dirt and other gunk could run right on the shaft. Do I need to tap and install one? Second question, the threaded hole in the 3rd photo, the plug that came with it does not thread in, okay to just use a standard Brass plug? or is the one supplied supposed to work?

https://p15-d24.com/topic/22456-show-your-tools/ Lots of versions in this thread and here's one as well. https://p15-d24.com/topic/50182-brake-adjustment-tool-updated/?tab=comments#comment-532931 The search tool is your friend. Using " " around your search terms helps the search narrow down results to that specific wording as well

If you have the means and are feeling like putting in more work than required, This Old Tony has a great video on making your own springs as well.

When you get the opportunity, you can double check your wiring. This is what should be connected to the ignition switch based off the wiring diagram, sometimes it helps to see it a different way, I have a hard time with the wiring diagrams sometimes. AM and BATT will be the same in regards to wiring your new switch. Assuming AM stands for Ammeter. You can effectively ignore the accessories post in regards to the starting system its unrelated. I know you said your engine still runs on ACC so I'm wondering if maybe theres an incorrect hookup on the horn relay? Just spitballing here.

And have you tried another ignition switch? I would be leaning that way based off the spark/no spark diagnosis. Even if the one you put in was new, I hate to be cliche, but they don't make em like they used to. I just had a solenoid that was bad out of the box, kept sticking so I'd tap it with a wrench or else the starter would keep spinning. Just threw on one today that has probably sat outside for the last 20 years and I had no problems with it what so ever. I find that new electrical parts can really be hit or miss. Especially the Chinesium cheap ones Worst case, you are out some time and 10 bucks for a new switch.

I have attached a wiring diagram for you

First question, Do you have a wiring diagram? If you do not, they are extremely helpful so I'd start there. If you do, I can tell you what works with mine. I have a minimalist setup including an ammeter. Basically as simple as it gets. I also have a generic ST, ACC, IGN, BAT switch. The ST for me is coming off the center post of my ignition switch and goes to the small center post on my solenoid. IGN makes its way to the negative side of the coil, BAT, goes from Ignition switch -> Ammeter -> Battery terminal on voltage regulator. and I don't have any accessories. By connecting IGN to ST aren't you effectively doing the same thing as turning the key to start it? You can also check for spark at the plugs while having someone crank it for you with the key. Maybe there is something causing you to get spark when you jump it but not when cranking. At least you would know If it should be starting. Not sure if all this helps or not, I am not a big electrical guy

I might have one lying in the woods, I'll check tomorrow Edit: This is what I found... I don't think its the right year or what you are looking for. Been at this place 26 years and Just stumbled on this in the woods a few months ago. Couldn't believe I hadn't seen it before.

I'll try and crawl under one of my cars in better shape and snap some photos. I have a 51 dodge I can check but they might be in bad shape as well. I'll try and snag them tomorrow morining

Bartenderfloyd, I've been running into this as well with mine. I have absolutely nothing to go off of as my floors look much like yours. I do know that the floor, rocker and sill all sit on top of each other along a flat lip. Outside of the floor pan, inside of the sill and inside rocker if that makes sense. The braces go over the body mounts but I also have not a clue how they tie into the inner rocker. If someone had a picture of the underside of the car it would be good.

Thank you greg, throttle plate is the word I was thinking of when I said valve. Was on the tip of my tongue

Just spitballing here but maybe running too rich as you add gas to it? so by the time you are hitting full throttle your ratio is off? (Edit) And have you checked the linkage for your accelerator pedal. i.e. Pushing the pedal all the way down equals wide open on the carb. Possibly not pushing your valve all the way open?