maddmaxx1949

Took me a minute as apparently the "Find" feature does not pick up the 316TN332. It's on pg. 80 for anyone looking. Thanks again. Sanity partially restored

Sniper thank you. I was questioning my sanity (not that I don't do that daily). Ironically, the MRC catalog did not have a cross reference and neither did Aetna. I also wonder what the 1505 bearing is applicable to. Do non-fluid drive vehicles have a narrower input shaft?

Okay, so I didn't want to come to the forum with this but I've exhausted my internet/ebay searching skills. I ordered a throwout bearing supposedly for a 49 dodge coronet. However, the bearing size is significantly smaller, It's not big enough to slide over the transmission shaft and I can't install it on my existing sleeves because again it's too small. It was a national 1505 and from autozone (not that I expect much here) to rockauto they all List that as the bearing replacement. What gives? Am I totally missing some basic info? I tried cross referencing the bearings I had on my sleeves I pulled off and it was an Aetna a-903 and an MRC 316TN332 but no success there. I am trying to find a modern equivalent before I have to buy NOS. It's driving me nuts. Edit: I should note that the sleeves I have are the original mopar part. I just need a new bearing....

Also I did forget to mention, the problem could have largely been due to the bracket I fabricated to hold the pivot arm. If you look in my other thread on the rebuild, you can see I made a bracket that holds it because I couldn't find the orginal. This was not made correctly and having found my original, it moved the pivot arm up about an inch which also straightened the angle it pushes against the release lever. This could very well have been my issue but I won't know until it goes back together.

Great score!

I didn't know they were adjustable. I will look at my literature. That may solve my small bearing concerns as well

Thanks Booger, and as far as a journal goes, this is pretty much it. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea though. Update is I ending up pulling most of the parts of my 51 so I can sell the body and frame to a guy and waiting to hear back on that. I installed the good fluid coupling and Needed to replace the clutch release bearing. I bought a bearing with a sleeve and the bearing that came on it is a national 1505 equivalent. This is considerably smaller than the bearing that is on it now. The question being, what is the approximate distance between fingers on the pressure plate for a 49? is anyone else running a similar sized bearing and how much contact is on the pressure plate fingers? i.e. lots of overlap, is barely touching all three, etc. Thanks in advance

Yes, you were right Dartgame, my new one I ordered doesn't shake at all, only rotates. Experience +100, Leveled up Clutch system understanding +1.

Check the wire from your ignition coil to the distributor as well. The polarity of that wire should be the same as ground.

Are all the nuts tight on the coupling? May be a basic answer but doesn't hurt to double check

Do yourself a solid and undo the drain plug/clip thing on the lower bellhousing for your fluid drive. You will be able to discern if your unit is leaking much faster. I pray yours is not becuase it sucks if it is. I can't speak about the properties of the chevron fluid but the 5 gal that I got of mobil Light circulating fluid ran me about 160 so if it is the same additive and viscosity wise, that's some good savings

I believe 295's are a non-resistor plug. I know a couple of the members here run 306's which are a resistor type.

You can check that the right wires are going to the right plug with the firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4.... If I remember correctly the 1 fires with the rotor in the 7 o'clock position so make sure that one is at no. 1 spark plug wire. Secondly, which plugs did you go with? I've read on here there are a few that can cause rough running.

Update: Recieved the nuts and they are the same except ever so slightly thicker maybe 1/32" which is plenty close for my standards. Other than that right on. I didn't end up ordering from the company mentioned above but they should be the same.

The Plymouth doctor might have what you are looking for. I have not used his panels but I know there are others that have. If you search Plymouth doctor it should be the first search result.

All I know is ICP headlines it and usually brings in there own professional wrestling company as well. It's not too bad out here, just traffic. Wouldn't mind going for a day just to check it out but really not my style.

Thanks I had never heard of a Thickstun, couldn't figure out what that word was. I appreciate the info.

Sounds like a cool concert to go to. Can't really go wrong with Samantha Fish in the lineup. Wouldn't mind a good blues concert in this area. Closest thing to me is Gathering of the Juggalos....

Okay, so shelved the project for a while to work on other things. Cousin came over this weekend to pick up some things and look at it just for fun. We went through the timing procedure again, this time I had an extra long handcrank so I didn't have to bump the starter to turn it which helped immensely. Plus using a better sized rod for the #6 cyl. hole also helped. Major adjustment on the distributor was way off from TDC and I couldn't get spark when I rotated the distributor during static timing. Adjusted major adjustment. Rotated distributor while on #1 TDC until points sparked. Tightened distributor down and hallelujah the truck is running strong. had to turn up the idle a bit so it didn't die. But, no more lope, no more rough running. Thanks all. Helps to get a second set of eyes when you are doing it and to take a step back for a bit. I swear I had timed it 15 times but I clearly missed a step and something wasn't clicking in my head. Running off a gas can right now but going to get the tank flushed and hopefully have a functioning wood hauler here soon. Brakes optional of course. Edit: I also did not see any timing marks on the front crank pulley, probably too much rust at this point but I will need to emery paper it at some point if I'm going to find them

Thank you, thats kind of what I figured, but I didn't have a good reference. All three I had lying around did that so I was not sure. Would I be surprised if they were all bad? Absolutely not....? ....perks of putting everything together from old barn find parts.

I can't read the intake, what brand is it and what headers are you running if you don't mine me asking.

I did check the options for jam nuts but all I found were either on 1/4" thick or less and/or 11/16" wrench size. I looked a long time, it was a pain lol. Why so much effort for these nuts? I'm sure most people would just throw on a standard size and go but its just the way I am I guess. Got to be a little crazy to work on some of this stuff

Wow this is why I love this forum. Found them in less than 5 minutes Thanks 61spit! Edit: for those looking the nut number is AN315-7 plain hex nut

Bit of a stupid question here but I'm curious. I had nuts that came off my fluid drive coupling ('49 coronet) and I can't for the life of me find the same ones anywhere. They measure 7/16-20 thread, 5/8" width/wrench size and the hard to find part is that they are 3/8" thick. Any word on where to find these? I've already been through McmasterCarr and Grainger. The ones on my '51 were 19/32 and I don't want to mix and match. Followup question, do most of you just use a standard 7/16-20 , 11/16" nut?

Shot you an email Rich, I forgot to say that I don't believe it's a canadian car. Its more of a hodgepodge if anything. ....