maddmaxx1949

I have in the past bought two cabinets full of SMP/Blue streak ignition parts. I found the pdf version online of the 1926 - 1964 dealer catalog which has helped immensely however, some of the parts are not included in the catalog leading me to believe they were made later. My question is, was there another publishing of a wide range of years after 1964? i.e 1949 - 1975 or something along those lines...Or, did they only publish single year increments after 1964?

Also DJ I haven't got around to checking it yet but you're probably on the right track. Sitting for years in a field probably did it no good.

Focusing mostly on not depleting my savings any more until I find work. but I have a question on how to measure the charging voltage from the generator as well as output from the regulator. I polarized the generator but as this is a mishmash of cobbled together mix an match parts, I never checked whether the output was correct or not. No sense hoping its correct out of the box(or off the barn floor in this case, honestly surprised the generator works at all). Not super great at using the tester So if anyone has a good "how to" I would appreciate it.

Hopefully the car is running by then and Minnesota has settled down some more. Fingers crossed

You might check online on McMaster Carr for a part no. as well. "Sleeves for Compression Fittings for Copper Tubing" look similar though hard to tell from the picture alone. Take some measurements and I'm sure you will find something similar if not the same.

Wow that's a big show! A bit too far for me, would've like to have gone.

When and where is it?

You can check the local hardware store for a brass crush/compression fitting and you'll have a good shot at finding what you're looking for.

Just giving this a bump back up to the top. I'm going to fiddle with it once I get all the 70 year old grease off

Those look like they're in fantastic shape.

Update, haven't been able to mess with the car too much in the past week, just got busy but, I did get an itch that needed to be scratched. It just so happened that this Fenton dual intake was on ebay at the same time. Coincidence, I think not. Plus ended up getting some headers ordered from Langdon Stovebolt for my '50 Chrysler. and when he gets some in for the 23" I'll pick them up as well. My wallet says ouch but my heart says mwuahahahaaa make car go slightly less slow mwuaahahahaaa...... Now to hit the job search hard and get back into the swing of things in order to fund more cool stuff. Still procrastinating finishing the rockers mostly becasue paint is intimidating and getting the car moving on its own is priority right now

I agree after reading through this, it has excellent breakdowns for repair procedures and I have been dissatisfied with my factory manual on more than one occasion. It's definitely good to have both if possible. The Chilton manual is also just for a separate reference. You know what they say, if you ask three people how to do something most of the time you'll get three different answers. Never opposed to a second opinion or procedure so long as it works.

Hit a show in Springfield Ohio today. I tell you what, I saw one spitfire head but other than that flat 6 parts and our era dodge parts were non existent. Tons of parts and about 50 cars for sale but 90% chevy small block and Ford. Disappointing but managed to pick up two manuals for a good price. Both 1950 to supplement my factory manual. Love the smell of that old paper. Did see a 1922 and earlier carb book that was pretty cool but nothing I could use... Edit: the best thing about original manuals besides the smell is the pictures and text are absolutely crystal clear. None of that photocopied blurry bullpucky.

Yeah that's the same picture I have in my manual and the one I'd like a template on. Just oversight on my part getting excited to get my rusty tub of lard rolling. And thanks Donald that makes alot of sense.

Thanks Marc, let me know what you come up with. Donald, do you know what is the cutoff for "first series" in 1949 or are those just the cars that were made under the Deluxe, Custom, etc. naming convention. I am unfamiliar with the '46 - '48/49. It would be good to know what separates the two so I don't repeat the same thing I just did. Edit: Gauge I made is claimed at this time.

Hey all, I wanted to check my overcenter spring setting on my '49 so I read around a bit and saw someone had put a template in the downloads section. Well I made that and it ended up being for tool C-705 which is not applicable for mine...so an hour and a half spent for something I don't need. No problem there learned that it wouldn't work so knowledge gained. Does anyone have a template for tool C-853? or even some measurements and I'll make one? There have been some posts about just using your leg to determine what feels right but I'd like to at least ballpark it with a gauge if I could. I'm not sure really what its supposed to be and I am cobbling the linkage together from a box of parts that came with the car so some piece of mind to me would be invaluable. Side note, if anyone wants the gauge I made shoot me a pm I'll ship to the lower 48 for nothing.

Holy heck, going to need a good sized torque wrench if you want to hit 320. I'd need a cheater pipe and some extra body mass for that too...

I'll look at it I saw some gauges on here being made to check length. I had hoped it would've been close enough even though it has sat a long time. I'm not sure the spring would change the distance the fork is being pushed though would it?

Question time: My clutch pedal has about a foot of free play. It does disengage the clutch disc the last ~1" of travel. and the pedal stays down mostly due to the overcenter spring i think? Literally to where the floor would be before I get any response. I can't lengthen the rod that stabs into the fork anymore. I have about a half inch I could get by adjust the rear mounts but thats it. In need of some suggestions Because I also can't get reverse, I think once the free play situation is taken care of it will be easier to diagnose. Also, radiator engine and driveshaft all on the car and the back wheels turn. so it's close. P.s. make sure you have your heater hose hooked up before putting antifreeze in ?

Fabbed up a quick bracket out of some 1/8" sheet I had. Works, not sure how close it is to the original but It doesn't interfere with the transmission linkage. I threw on a spring I found just to get things setup. I will need to get an original one because the one I used bumps into the trans linkage some, not bad, but I wouldn't leave it that way permanently. Still if anyone has photos of an original bracket that would be appreciated for comparison. Will definitely need to do some clutch adjustment and make sure it's actually pushing the disc far enough out to disengage it. Tomorrow's project. then maybe I'll be able to drive it out on it's own power. baby steps.

Okay, so since I flushed out the engine and got it running I put it back in the car hoping to have it moving on it's own power. Most of the parts for the clutch linkage were in a bucket I got with the car except the one I circled. I surprisingly don't have another one lying around anywhere (or at least I can't find it). I was wondering If anyone had a picture of it. I can fab one up fairly easily but I'd like to see what an original looks like and maybe some rough measurements if at all possible. Rockers are going slow, I just need to get off my butt and finish them, but the options for paint are overwhelming. I need to probably cut apart the one I already welded in order to properly prep and paint the inside of it unless there is a way I can figure out how not to.

Thanks, I'm a big fan of finding the original literature with some of these parts and cars. While they may have been a common thing to see for some of the folks here, as a younger man its like unearthing some unknown and cool history. Have to preserve what I can, hate to see it lost to time.

I used Permatex 59235 thread sealant on my headbolts and have had good luck with it so far. As Plymouth Adams said a few of the bolts pass into the water jacket so thread sealing those particular ones is a good idea.

Hey All, Was wanting to start a thread for stuff you've found buried or lying around maybe at junk yard or tucked back in someone's barn forgotten for years until one of us came along and blew the dust off it. On topic with the forum of course. For instance I recently stumbled upon this NOS ball and trunion rebuild kit complete with literature and wanted to share it with you guys. Didn't want to make a new thread everytime I found something cool or interesting. There are a few individual threads out there of cool finds but it's usually about just one thing then the thread ends so I wanted to bounce this off of you all. Admin if this isn't allowed please let me know.

Thank you. I'll look into sealers further.