DJK

Not a big deal, no special tools needed. Tapped off drum gently with hammer, removed seal with seal puller/pry bar. Plan on needing a Speedi sleeve to repair hub and a modern neoprene seal.

Sniper, called them yesterday, they are barely hanging on, inventory is almost gone, doors were supposed to be closed back in April.

Didn't Hagens close up shop? I used 2 gaskets with muffler sealer, so far so good.

I installed a grease fitting on the lower plate so I could pump it in from the bottom until it reached the fill hole.

I made a tool to remove the axles using a piece of pipe and a bolt. As PA said, slide hammer or some heavy object would also work.

The NOS seal I installed, leaked. Flanged looked similar to one shown. Installed speedi sleeve and neopreme seal, no leak.

Keith, I used Cat bolts for my head bolts.

I do not like wax, I use Wizard's auto polish.

I removed transmission, hood and the rubber seal on the radiator support. It was a tight fit, but it did come out. Might want to have an extra set of hands to help you.

67 USA

Went to the first cruise in of the season last nite, stopped at my former service managers house for a visit. He gave me a Snap-on MT500 meter, hooked it up this AM, works great.

That is how I have to use my timing lite w/ 12v jump box. I have seen the converted tachs, may be an option. A 6v Westach is around $150.

My 52 has the copper washers. I don't see them listed separately in Andy Bernbaum's catalog, so I assume they came with the new hoses. Might want to give him a call to verify.

Actron showed up, checked dwell = 38, would not give a steady rpm reading. Called the company, they said 12v system is all it will work on for tach. I can set the rpm pretty well by ear and apparently I did a pretty good job with the points and feeler gauge.

My 80 yo buddy showed up with his vintage Snap-on tach/dwell meter, checked my settings, had 38 degrees on the dwell and 500 rpm. Waiting for my Actron to show up.

There are a couple of the Sears units on ebay for the price of the new Actron with a lot more features. Should be here today.

Will do.

Found an Actron CP7677 on Amazon for $44, should get it Weds. See what happens. Thanks guys.

What's everyone using for a tach/dwell meter? My 40 yo Mac ET910 is only giving me voltage readings, tach and dwell no longer function, have replaced the 9v battery and cleaned all connections. Thanks

I did use the same plastigauge. The new Sealed Power std bearings measured almost .001 thicker than the bearings that I originally took out of the engine. I figured if the engine ran 68 yrs. with std. bearings and the polished crank is within specs, it will run a few more yrs. for me.

Get some O gauge battery cables and for the starter relay to starter. Good job getting it going.

With .003 clearance, according to my manual, this is too much clearance. Went back to machine shop for remeasure, he suggested .002 bearings. Had .001 clearance with plastigauge, unfortunately crank would not turn, same with rods. Had already sent back the set of std. bearings, reordered new std. Sealed Power bearings from two different sources. Checked with George Ashe Jr. (who at 89 is still building flat heads) to verify the use of std. bearings. The crank journals were all well w/in specs. Just under .002 clearance w/ plastigauge and new std. bearings. Engine sounds great, 45# at fist start, 40# driving down the road, 35# at hot idle. I have done 3 heat cycles and retorqued head after complete cool down. Will perform hot valve adjustment. In regards to the bearings, the first set of mains were packed in shrink wrap and looked like new reproduction, the rod bearings had a piece of foam in the package that crumbled when touched not to mention they were rusty on the sides and crushed together with scratches on the bearing surface.

Update: engine is in and running like a top, 40 +/- 5# oil pressure, no noises and no leaks so far. I had adjusted the valves before installing engine @ .010 int. and .013 ex., I assume I should recheck them hot????? Thanks for all the help in getting this project ready. First cruise in is Fri.

Update: Mains arrived today, checked with plastigauge = just under .002" clearance, cleaned off plastigauge, apply prelube, torque main caps(w/o rope seal), crank spins very smoothly. Wed. AM my 80 yo friend, who worked on these vehicles back in the day, is coming to help install the rope seal. Life is good.

Talked to 89 yo George Ashe Jr. last week(who is currently building a flathead engine), he said as long as the crank measures std., go with std. bearings. Rod and mains ordered (sealed power), rod bearings arrived, checked with plastigauge as per George, a liitle less than .002" clearance. Waiting on the mains to show up. The way I see it, the engine had 40# of oil pressure with 68 yo bearings, the new bearings are approx. .001 thicker than the old ones, I should be golden!!!