Lingle

you can drop from 12V system voltage to 6 but I would be worried about using a 12V motor and supplying it 6V. Ill send you a PM, may have a good 6V fan motor(I bought a 12V replacement since Ill be at 12V), but its from a different heater. I will try to send some photos and dimensions to you via PM. I too had to have my core replaced, but luckily it was pre 2019 so costs were not too bad, but out the door was still $300 for new core plus all the flux work. good thing the heater was cheap!

I've been very happy with the quality of radiator from DCM I got. it was a aluminum aftermarket one, that I had them make changes to make it custom. they also often have used parts they may be willing to sell so might be worth calling them. their website has the radiator as configured for stock listed but being aluminum, cheaper than a copper core, but likely still spendy.

random update time, been slowly working on truck but no big changes. after ~4 year slumber, 4 new injectors and an hour to prime the fuel system, I successfully started the old Detroit and turned fuel into noise yesterday! good oil pressure, no run-away condition. back to doing sheetmetal fab, rebuilding the inner fender since I had to remove most of them for CAC/intercooler plumbing. Im hoping to focus and be done with sheetmetal work this winter as we are looking to move next year so would be nice to drive the truck to the next location rather than trailer.

luckily no my first set of front sheetmetal didnt show any damage to the radiator but the hood was cracked worse than the replacement I got. I ended up getting a custom made aluminum radiator from DCM as I was worried about cooling capacity of my transplanted diesel engine, but I likely could have kept the radiator. keep up the good job thus far!

looks like the hood is slightly bent, in the first photo right above where the hood touches the overflow, and of the two hoods I have, both have tears in that area where it transitions. if the gap between the front of the hood to fender vs. rear of hood is vastly different, that may indicate a bend.

sorry to hear about Puma. The time we got to meet Puma we could tell she ran a tight shop operation.

per the listing they are by MoPar-Pro and new knobs, though look like possibly cleaned up used ones. interesting for sure.

been a bit since I last posted, my father in law passed then a week later my appendix decided it didnt like me so it came out so been recovering the last week(3 to go) before big work will resume. As seen on the BBQ raffle post, I got my cluster back from Keven, highly recommend his services, top notch and great person to deal with. I did do some firewall work, I used SendCutSend, as some had recommended, along with my free CAD software Fusion 360 to make the insert piece. as seen below its exactly to my posterboard and to my dxf I made...however I should have measured a little more as its about 1/4" too long, so the radius is too big but nothing a little sanding wont fix. Ill get a photo in the truck later

Keven did a awesome job, got them back a few weeks ago but life threw the family and I some unexpected challenges...but here in all their glory is the cluster he reworked and sent back...looks great! now to finish the rest of the truck. super professional looking.

been working on the truck but havent done a post in months so sorry about that. got my intercooler mounted, but this caused me to have to relocate the A/C condenser so will be mimicking what GGDad is doing and mount the AC condenser remotely under the cab. since I am mounting the intercooler directly to the radiator/sheetmetal support, I am ok with the 3/8-1/2" of gap between the core and the front clip. next up is finishing the inner fenders to allow the piping to pass through, then back on cab sheetmetal. Happy times!

can I ask, I think it was above, what software are you guys using? I dont have access, and cannot use my work software even if I had access to it for personal use, to a free or reasonably priced software to do basic things. I would like to have some laser cut sheetmetal made but the local shops to me are not interested so hoping if I can find a good software to get to do some basic work.

Im in for $250

Count me in for $200

Love seeing the fender repair. Im currently doing the front cab corners with parts from DCM, I will post photos later this week or early next week but was thinking how to do the fender repiar and boom! ggdad to the rescue!

havent been working much on the truck since last update but I did stop by DCM Classics when I was in Holland, MI over the weekend(actually on Friday). that place is pretty sweet and the staff were awesome! got some sheetmetal parts while there to work on my cab. hope all is well with everyone!

I have the motto that "any progress is better than no progress" and I enjoy learning all I can. I think that low gloss black looks cool, almost like a matte black, which I think looks sweet. Im super nervous when I get to it to paint my project. Im going back with the stock Dodge red(or as I call it Coke red), and I too am not a painter nor bodyman, so it may not look the best. Keep up the great work!

sorry to hear about Puma. she was such a sweetheart the time we visited

congrats on retirement! also, the build looks awesome

nice start to the project! I would recommend getting the Dunn book as it contains alot of information. This site search will help you with many of your questions like master cylinder, etc. With the closure of the other pilothouse site, I dont know if there are paint codes here but I am sure we can find some. if I remember I will check my book at home if Dunn happened to put those there. Good luck and look forward to seeing your posts

saw that as well, sad to see the devastation in Florida but always nice to see the trucks in the wild!

got some more work done, wont be able to work on Mater until next week but got the foot floor area installed and welded in, started to look at the firewall and looks like the pre-bent pieces I made last week will work good, going to be fun filling in all the open spots, Im not a sheetmetal/thin metal person so learning as I go. the black lever in the phot is my transfer case shift ever, and the square opening next to it is where the gear shift lever goes. somewhat angled photo but the top of the sheetmetal firewall will be parallel to the ground and be welded into what is left of the existing firewall

Thanks everyone! given my floor structure being fairly close I opted not to do bead rolling(also finding someone to do that was proving difficult and purchasing the tools wasn't at the top of my list).

summertime is hard for me to find time to work on the project but am finding some time to do some things. First up I have sourced some new engine parts, newer bypass blower, upgraded injectors and finally after 6+ months of searching I found turbo parts. sheetmetal for the floor and firewall have been sourced, 14ga to get as close to stock thickness. Just started layout work so here are some photos, I am hoping by this weekend I have them all trial fit, firewall bent up and can see about replacing the toeboards/cab parts near the front cab mounts. the black lines in the first photo are for where to drill for the spot welds I plan to put in. I will fully weld the sheet to the existing cab structure but to the floor structure spot welds. recommendation on how many spot welds(i.e. # per inch)?

any input on those high bay lights?? Im looking at future shop projects and want to do those

could be, cant recall if you replaced the condenser but I had a boat motor that would fire up and run, but on shut down the heat soak would make the condenser not want to work again until cooled back off. points are really just breaking a circuit so cleaned up dont typically fail but depending on how much they are and how hard to get, Id throw in new point and condenser.