Sam Buchanan

Nothing is making me think anything. All I stated is that "Carter" is an American brand and much of the items I get on Amazon are not. Buy what makes you happy...................

Well.....that photo did spark an idea....why not have the retractor pretty much in the location shown but attached to a steel fitting that extends to the floor? I could make that work and satisfy attachment criteria with doublers under the floor. There would still need to be a loop above shoulder height on the door pillar to make this work with shoulder belts. Thanks for the photo!

I don't have anything to offer other than just try it. I think the Carter, even if built offshore, would have better reliability than a Ching Whang Chong or other unknown brand. I don't know where the Carter in my P15 was built but it has been flawless for four and half years.

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After exchanging emails with @Happy 46R he has found he needs bulbs with staggered lugs. I think this bulb, an 1154, will be what he needs. It is dual circuit and non-polarity sensitive. https://www.ledlight.com/g18-s25-2_6-watt-1157-6-volt-ac-non-polarity.aspx

My automotive LED experience is limited to the changes I have made in my cars and I've found variations in all three applications. My ability to remotely troubleshoot somebody else's car, especially one where wiring has been modified is probably not useful since some sleuthing would most likely be needed even with the car in front of me. As described, yes, it seems you need three 1158 LED bulbs, IF, repeat IF, the existing bulbs have lugs that are at the same level on the bulb base. You need to check what you have in your car prior to ordering LEDs. I recommend you get red ones so the tail lights won't appear pink as they might with white LEDs. The first thing I would check in regard to your trunk light would be if voltage drop is occurring which can cause things to get flakey. This could be faulty wiring but more likely poor grounds in our often corroded light fixtures. Install the flasher first and insure your signals still work properly before switching bulbs. Then change one bulb at a time and verify proper operation. Changing more than one thing at a time can really complicate troubleshooting.

I don’t think what you observed was due to coolant. There are reasons why an engine might run too warm when stopped but being less than a pint low won’t overheat a healthy cooling system.

50/50 blend will lower the freezing point to 0F or below, use the chart on the jug if using non-diluted antifreeze. If your radiator is non-pressurized (open vent) don't fill higher than an inch or so below the neck so it won't slosh out. Pressurized radiator can be topped if you wish.

Just hook it up correctly. 😀 Look very closely, one terminal will be stamped with "X", as Plymouthy stated that is power. The opposite terminal is load, your lights. The pigtail MUST be grounded.

Does your new flasher have a wiring schematic with it? If so, use it instead of relying on how the old flasher was connected.

Here are the installation notes about a spin-on bypass filter on my P15: https://p15-d24.com/topic/50622-installing-a-spin-on-bypass-oil-filter-photos/#comment-537063 You may be just as well off changing oil every 1000 miles instead of installing a bypass filter if the car isn't driven on long trips. My car didn't have a filter until I installed this one.

I can now confirm this flasher works perfectly with a combination of filament and LED bulb and also with a full LED light system. The install of the flasher and LED bulbs went smoothly and they look GREAT! I bought red LEDS for the tail and brake lights and warm white for the front running/signal lights. The warm white looks original except brighter and has the characteristic instant on/off flashing of LED bulbs. I like 'em! One way I've always been able to confirm brake or signal lights are working is by watching the ammeter bouncing. However, the LEDs pull so little current the ammeter needle doesn't deflect. But I think this is a good thing.

After you get tired of messing with the generator/regulator you might consider the final charging system solution. https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Should work, the third terminal is for a dash indicator light.

I just ordered this LED flasher because the description states it will work with a combination of standard and LED bulbs. I think you will need this or a similar flasher to get the LED bulbs to flash at the proper rate. Very reasonably priced at $17.99. I'm replacing all tail, brake and signal bulbs with LED, cost about $50 for the complete conversion from the vendor below. @46Chris said he is pleased with their bulbs. https://www.ledlight.com/flasher-cf13-6-volt-dc-led-compatible-3-terminal-150-watt.aspx

Theoretically.......one fuse is not as lacking on these very simple cars as it might first appear. A fault anywhere in the protected wiring should blow the fuse and protect the wiring. The problem is that a fault in an isolated location (one tail light?) could take out all the lights. Individual fuses work around this scenario. A good rule of thumb is to only replace the fuse one time. If the fault was random the new fuse might last long enough to get home, but if it blows a second time there is probably a major fault and game over until the fault is repaired. As stated above, in-line fuses can be used to add more specific protection. The heater motor is a good place for an in-line fuse, just make sure it has a lower rating than the main fuse. But replacing ALL the wiring is the only way to properly install a new fuse panel, and a 12v harness is a big no-no because the wires can be too small for the greater load of a 6v system. So have a good understanding of the wiring architecture before making changes, be sure new problems are not added where none existed previously.

If your wiring is still original.....yes.....one fuse on the headlight switch. It was a different world back then.

A couple of observations..... Back in the day it was common to park the car in reverse, that offers maximum resistance to rolling because of the large gear ration. You mentioned an overflow tank for the radiator.......not needed, just leave coolant level about an inch and a half below the neck and sloshout won't occur. You have a nice car....enjoy!

While the single center brake light is very cool and nostalgic, I felt it was inadequate for inattentive drivers tailgating my P15 since they are more accustomed to seeing brake lights associated with tail lights. One of the first things I did on my car during the process of returning it to roadworthy status was install turn signals and convert the tail lights to double filament sockets. This is not a difficult mod if you have a basic understanding of wiring. I left the center light in the brake circuit so there are now three brake lights. I may go with 6v LED tail light bulbs, I like the increased output and lower current draw. However, I'll need to change out the flasher for one that will function properly with LEDs.

That sounds reasonable to me, in that case I would install the gasket. Guess a little leakage would be the anti-corrosion system. That system is alive and well on my car! 😁

That's the same conclusion I came to and another reason why it seems to me the gasket is ineffective at stopping leaks at locations that are supposed to be sealed. Guess it's better to let the bearing retainer leak down the gasket slot instead of into the bellhousing. Of course the retainer is supposed to be sealed and draining oil back into the trans case. Now.....the gasket is staring at us on the workbench, do we install it or leave it on the bench?

I don't understand the gasket, either. The gasket doesn't cover the area of the transmission where the countershaft bore is located. Plus, the gasket has a slot underneath the location of the bearing retainer (??). Beats me...... However, I have a lot of respect for the old MoPar engineers, those dudes were sharp about how to work with the technology available to them....wish I knew what they were thinking.

Use this link to find results of a Google search with many of the threads in this forum on transmission leaks: https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3A+p15-d24.com+transmission+leak&oq=site%3A+p15-d24.com+transmission+leak&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg60gEJMTUwODdqMGo0qAIAsAIB&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Here is a thread I started about resolving a large leak on the front of my P15 transmission: https://p15-d24.com/topic/58630-major-leak-countershaft-3-speed/ It is my experience the paper gasket between trans and bellhousing will not stop drips from a transmission that isn't sealed properly.

Your alternator fuse needs to be sized according to the current load your wiring harness will tolerate before failing, not according to the potential output of the alternator. The fuse is to protect your car's wiring in case an internal short occurs in the alternator (quite unlikely but protection is a good idea). I don't know what that number is since I don't know details of your wiring architecture but 100a is no doubt way too big.

Pretty much everything. Not trying to be snippy but you are just going to have to do some electrical troubleshooting, something we can't do via the internet. There are dozens of places where current can be interrupted and it only takes one fault. Hope the problem is easy to find.