NickPickToo

Shhhhhhhhhhhh Mom's out of town this weekend. To be honest, I don't smell anything but a little food grease burning that was in the stove already

Oh yes, I've got the inner parts already. And once I get the 47 driving and shining I plan to park out in front of the Shinola hotel and see if I can get them to make me a custom clock

There are a lot of comments on heat risers out on HAMB. Opinions are various and good reasons to keep or delete so I'm not going to sweat it too much.

I have a friend who's dad converted an old electric floor buffer into a hand pushed zamboni for his backyard rink using induction heating, but this is pretty cool too.

Thanks, My dad is not much help, he was a diesel mechanic and keeps asking where the glow plugs are and then laughs. We did read that the exhaust helps heat the intake manifold which can get cold due to pressure changes, but if you just open up the riser then you have heat all the time so I'm not sure what you loose if you delete it.

So does that mean that the heat riser can be deleted without big issues? I ask because I am modifying my exhaust manifold to a dual exhaust with the rusty hope kit and I would like to delete the riser if I can get away with it. If the exhaust is warming the intake manifold anyway, what purpose of the riser?

Looks so much better after a bath and rebuild kit. New plunger, balls, gaskets, etc. Missing one of the adjustment screws and the adjustment screw on the base is bent, but otherwise ready to mount. Will it run? I have to wait and see.

Okay I went out to this guys website. First, his an experienced german engineer, and second this is what he does. So now I'm not as depressed. My job will be dope.

I'm going on the record now...my floor pans, brackets and welds will not look as good as what here. I wish you would not have shared this

My great uncle is a big AMS oil fan and has asked us to use it in this project. We're keeping him posted on how it goes. When I say 90 wt I really mean AMSoil gear oil. We have read that that stuff is less an issue on rubber but we didn't read that directly from AMS oil.

This is what we came up with for Body to Frame brace repair. This 2x1 rectangular tubing is a close match to the body side attachment brace. We ripped one of the sides off the tube and drilled a 3/8 hole. We found the rest of the hardware at the local True value and purchased the rubber from Steele Rubber. Just need size up this bracket, make five more, put the body back in place, spot weld the attachments in place, take the body back off and then weld the attachments firmly in place. Also used a little 90 weight to get the rubber and spacers to slide into place more easily.

Okay, between Eneto's comment and the comment below from the Forward Look, I think I figured it out. The tube is not functioning on my '47 unless I choose to add additional features that were from later years. I like the heft of the older manifold. Remember, even within the 218-230 family, the choke set up varied over the years. Some had linkage pull chokes on heat stoves, some used a heat tube from a chamber on the manifold, some were for hand chokes with no heat provision at all.

Need some help understanding differences in these two exhaust manifolds: The sand blasted one is from the '55 230 out of my '47 that I chipped slightly taking off. The other one is a donation from a forum member. The donated manifold seems beefier, but the attachment points to the engine are the same. Also the one from my engine has a tube running through it and a nipple on the bottom as well (see red circle. These were not attached to anything when I purchased the car and I do not see these in the parts or service manuals (but I don't have the '55 manuals). Do any of you understand the why these are different and what the function was for the differences? Also, which would you recommend would work best for a duel exhaust header modification?

I think I found it. Another carb on eBay looks exactly the same except its really trashed and has the cast number 6-1456 on it which matches my carb. The one on eBay has a part Id tag still attached 3094S which matches up to a rebuild kit with gaskets and parts the same as on my carb (CK74 from the carb doctor)

Carburetor Identification Hell-p. I want to refurbish this carburetor and can't locate the identification number. Its a Carter Ball & Ball 1-Barrel that came with my 1955 230 that came out of my 1947 Deluxe. I found pat. no. and molding numbers, but nothing that looks like an identification number that matches up to the numbers everyone else is referencing. I found this link to a 1964 - 1965 Mopar A/B body rebuilt carb which looks almost identical but I'm not sure. If it is so, is that a good thing? https://www.classicindustries.com/product/mn2932.html

I get to keep the three on the tree!. It cleaned up way to nicely to let it go.

Pistons, valves, shafts and sundries...

Cleaned and broken down engine block. I really would have liked to have done this myself, but Dad was worried that I'd get off to college with this in his garage so we called in the relief pitchers. Thank you Adam's Engines in Howell. This almost looks like a new block.

I used a harmonic balancer removal tool. It seemed to fit better than the tool you are using.

All sealed up

Your using two residual valves, 10 and 2 lb. How did you set these up?

Bobby, I will be setting up a system identical to what you have here but I will be putting the proportioning valve on the frame next to the MC. Could you tell me what size tubing you used throughout this set up. MC to PV (Front and back), PV to rear axel tee, tee to rear brakes, PV to front brakes, etc...

I'm going to be running brake lines over the next few weeks and I was just curious about tubing diameters. most of the brake lines on the original were 3/16 except the tubes that attached to the rear brakes were 1/4. What was the engineering reason for this?

Finally rolling so I took it out for some sun ?

Right hand threads on the right. Left hand treads on the left. ?