HanksB3B

Unlike a Ferrari where approaching red line in first gear is over the speed limiit in any state, you don't really need a speedometer in our trucks, It would look really good there ya think? Hank

Leaf Springs Hank

Where did you get that elbow. I need one. I've searched for either the part or a fabricator and have come up blank. Thanks for posting Don, Hank

I MultQuote agree. It's not as difficult as you think John. If you want to save yourself a lot of time and if you've got the scratch, then a vendor like Rhode Island Wiring or Vintage Wiring of Main is the way to go. Nice as my wiring turned out, I still wish mine were color-coded cloth with soldered connections. There are 26 wires in all (stock) and if you perform wire management with wire ties and maintain an open architecture so to speak. you can get out of danger first (frayed/short prone) run your truck with the new primary and secondary wiring then add tturn signals and other auxilary wiring and add it to the wire tie loom. and Kudos to whoever the forum member that did this color AutoCad file with Signal Stat turn signals added Friends don't let friends toast their trucks, Hank

Wow Tim ! Aw shuckes You know you didn't have to do it ! I like your style (excellent format) Thank you, Hank P.S. Copied every picture to Tims Starter folder.

What Great Guys we have on our forum don't we ? Unbelievably Thankful, Hank

I would appreciate if either you or Tim (whoever has the correct arm that has been removed or can be removed from a non-working starter?) Whatever makes sense. Jeff don't feel too bad about something that is fixed. My "Wrong" starter arm caused a lot more grief than you can imagine. Countless hours trying to align the cab and adjust the height of the radiator, which caused me to compromise and do "the best I could" to visibly align the doors with the front fenders resulting in a slightly tapered vertical seam between them if you look close enough at my truck. Don, the starter is a Mopar Part with the appropriate label and not a Chevy part (trying to make me gag). Maybe some of your car buddies on the flip side could readily identify the part. Thanks, Hank

Old Yeller and JBNeals looks correct to me. I'm starting to think I may have a starter or starter arm from either a passenger car, COE or other application like MBFowler suggests. Thanks for the Truck Manual illustration Tim. Does anyone know if the arms are interchangeable (I'm guessing yes) Looks like I might be needing one . Thanks Hank P.S. Jeff they probably did that to yours after it was T-boned before you bought it would be my guess.

Thanks Brent (it is hard to see in that shot but thanks just the same. As far as settling Jeff yes maybe 1/4" to 1/2" but not more. It was high to begin with (I got to stop riding around with fat chicks, they always cause me problems) Today for the first time it hung. I'm hoping someone with a B3B and/or kin will post a picture if they know their setup is original. Keep it coming. and Thanks in advance... Hank

Don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining. it's just another Mopar mystery that after 34 years of ownership keep me intrigued and as motivated as the first day I found her. Over the years, most will at some point ask what was original, and what was Mickey Moused along the way. Here's my latest: I have no idea if the starter that starts my truck is the original one for a 1951 B3B. Take a look at the picture, When I mounted the cab, it made sense that the bottom of the footpedal should align and make contact with the lobe of the starter arm (as you can see my marginal results) afterall it is the point of contact between the cab/frame/engine. I followed the cab mounts diagram I posted a bunch of times and know most of you guys are familiuar with the cab mounts. Q: Is the starter arm correct for my B3B ? Thanks for helping, Hank P.S. Today the footstarter pedal hung up (first time) and didn't retract smoothly Best Practice: When you farm components out for rebuilding, tell the vendor you want your component rebuilt and mark the housing in a way only you recognize. (Did you know Pinoccio was a bad motivational speaker?)

You need them (so do a lot of forum members) They are virtually impossible to find (unless you are someone like Tim) P.S. Hopefully someone has an extra R.H. and someone else has an extra L.H. or you could possibly scan and 3d print them Photo Credit 3D Systems Hank

Wow that's really something ! Is it on YouTube ? Beautiful Workmanship, Hank Next 51-53 Parking Light Buckets ? (those would sell for sure)

Why it's a Fluid Drive truck complete with at least one hubcap. Get her to a garage ! Nice, Hank

Bing ! Nice to know, Hank

Jeff, Sorry about your engine woes. Hopefully you'll figure out the best and simpliest fix. VPW used to sell OEM magnetic drain plugs like $5 or $8. They told me they were out of them. Where did you purchase yours? Thanks, Hank

Don't do it. Your truck will smell like baggage class steerage person from a 1930's ocean voyage. Totally hate the smell of moth balls. Hank

Dear Dolly, I think I'd surface the face of the block where your water pump goes and the face of the water pump itself. A flat file, a 3m rubber sanding block and some wet/or/dry will go a long way to making a dead flat almost mirror like surface. Can't wait to see Dolly back on the road, Hank

Get it ! and good luck with it 3 on the tree 4 on the floor it's all good ! Hank

Barry, Beautiful Color ! Looks like you are doing right by your truck. I hope you get well and are feeling strong soon. Regards, Hank

Edited by reason of Tod (provided the link post 45 below). http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge Pretty sure it's not for the faint of heart. (I was convinced I'd either anesthetize myself and never wake up, or blow myself up with the same result) A NOS temperture gauge was in my opinion the hardest part on the entire truck to find, so ask yourself "Are you feeling Lucky"? I'd definately go the Keven Route on this one. I traded/donated my old non-working one with Kevenfor something else, knowing that for the good of the herd it was important to see that it got into the correct hands. Hank

Buckaroo, 45 mph is about comfortable with a 4.11 differential (even with larger than stock tires). You want your engine to last as long as possible and you certainly don't want to throw a rod and go on a willdgoose case looking for another block to rebulld. Our trucks have a high center of gravity, Model-T suspension, old fashioned drum brakes and steering boxes that in most cases have seen miles of bumpy back roads and/or plow furrows before you were born. Everyone knows that I want to drive the highway at 65-70 mph, but not without the steering (kingpins & steering box) in the best possible working shape, a 3.54 or at least a 3.73 differential and most importantly a disc-brake conversion kit up front. I sure wish I had a 6 volt tachometer. Welcome and good luck with your truck, Hank

My truck's been faltering at full throttle (gas starved or timing) so I'm about to file and set my points for the umpeenteth time since I've owned my truck. I'm going to set them at .018 per Jeff's post (above). I will remove the distributor, do the work and then re-install it. I'm comfortable with that and it is the best way. Short of having a country road and a fifteen year old buddy to ride the fender and tweak the distributor to the ideal point, I think I'll ask my neighbor Kent to help me out with his timing light. Hank P.S. I have considered converting to Pertronix but not right now there's other things I want to do first. It'll surprise you all but that's another thread.

So is what you are saying, is that locking the drivers door has nothing to do with the door latch mechanism itself and you can lock both the passenger and driver side with no internal modifications. Very cool if that is so. Hank

You could most likely could Frank, but you would have to have the drivers door equvalent of the passenger side door lock mechanism. Secondly, you would have to drill a hole to match that of the passenger door. ggdad just bought one of the driver side door lock mechanisms (from Australia via Davin's mule "Peter"), I met up with him in Venice Beach, CA and have one remaining mechanism. It's one of the inventive things Jeff did when re-building his truck. Hank

+1 on that Hats off to the car guys. Over the years I've noticed they really take their mills seriously. Some of the carb setups custom cams, heads and exhaust manifolds are really a work of art. I guess building a performance L6 sure would be fun, but I don't know how much my 87hp truck would benefit. I've yet to get a taller rear end and discs up front, that's first.on my to-do list, but the list is long and they are a ways down. Jeff I admire your ingenuity. I'm down for one. Hank