55 Fargo

I have to agree with you Bob, I have had mine up to about 65 to 70 mph with a 3 spd trans and 3.73 rear end, that seemed very fast in my 47 Chrysler Coupe. I like to cruise at 50 to 60 mph like you do Bob, lucky I can get away with it around here for the most part, would hate to have to drive on the freeways, like say LA. If I had an OD trans, completely rebuilt front end, and disc brakes, I would consider cruising at 75 mph, till then 50 to 60 mph will do for me. I salute those that drive there P15s with a 3.9 or a 4.1 rear end at 65 mph, I would be nervous driving my car at those speeds..........Fred

Water and moisture=bad ignition,the rubber fuel hose to fuel pump, could it be sucking air, also Congrats on your engagement, all the best to you and your Lady.....Fred

Tried the big breaker bar and socket yesterday, I did not move the pistons, but did unbolt the crank pulley bolt.....

Wayne, what did you use it for? Are these small units enough for say stereos/cell phones,GPSs?............Thanx Fred

1969 was only 8 years old, Woodstock meant nothing to me, was too involved in summer actitivites and being out of school. Wanting to go fishing was probably a high on my list actiivity that summer, my future wife to be was also born that summer.....

Hi, after reading AndyDodge's thread with pics of his car, and seeing he has owned it since 71, figured I would post a thread to see how long everyone has owned there cars. I know Phil form Ontario has owned his 40 or 41 Dodge since 1968, I have owned my Chrysler since 1988, but did not do any owrk on her till 2005, she was out at Uncles place for many years, before I brought her home. So how long have any of you guys owned your rides?

Very cool car Andy, and to think, you have owned her since 71, ansd still going strong....

Randy, get the roller out and paint, been waitng for some of your results. Have you done any paint work this summer?

Way to go Bob, get out there and enjoy, always time for work at home during the week and winter time. I am also in the same boat, a lot of cruise -ins/show and shines have been on weekends that I am working, or it has been raining so darn much, I cannot take the car out, as I have almost 3 miles of gravel road to the highway, and when it rains here it is like soupy clay all the way, and do not want my old 47 covered in this stuff, especially the underside......Fred

That's not bad Andydodge, Earl Edgerton is currently work on a "hemi head" for a flat head 6, wonder what kind of HP that will develop. I am hoping to get to 140 to 150 HP with my plans, nothing radical. I figure a 150 hp engine, tied up with a 3 spd trans, and 3.73 rear end, should be a lot better off the line than a 98 hp 218 long block I have now. Even with the 218, I can keep up with city traffic off the line no problem, don't think I would be able to do as well if it were fluid drive. I have driven a fluid drive Chrysler once, it was neat, but what a dog off the line...................Fred

Gents, have asked this ?, on a few other related threads. What HP can one expect from a modding these flat head 6s. Here is what I hope to do with my sezied 251, rebuild,shave head .060, have cam reground to higher-perf specs, split dual exhaust or headers, single 2bbl Holley Webber carb, electronic ignition. What HP, could I develop, out of an engine such as my plans, the factory is about 115 hp, hope to get 150 to 175 hp is that possioble.....Fred Here isa pic of my current engine in my 47 Chrysler Coupe, it is a 218 Canadian stroker, shortest stroke of all Mopar flat head 6s, which 3 3/4, a 251 is 4 1/2 stroke.

Gents, have asked this ?, on a few other related threads. What HP can one expect from a modding these flat head 6s. Here is what I hope to do with my sezied 251, rebuild,shave head .060, have cam reground to higer-perf specs, split dual exhaust or headers, single 2bbl Holley Webber carb, electronic ignition. What HP, could I develop, out of an engine such as my plans, the factory is about 115 hp, hope to get 150 to 175 hp is that possioble.....Fred

Thanx a Bunch Greg, other than this, this engine is running very well, leaks oil like crazy, will be pulling oil pan in fall, to see what is happening. So will lower the float a bit, this is flat country, so no steep hills to create any problems........Fred

Thanx Greg, that answers this 1 for me. It was a real hot day when I last drove the car, maybe the gas evaporated out, or the float was stuck, and allowed the gas to back-siphon. This does not happen much, not sure I need to re-build the carb again or not......Fred

All the best Powerhouse, already beat the majority, lots of change in the 100 years....

Junior High School 1974, a Streaker went running down the halls and through the center court of the school, was the time of the "Streaker"..............

I would simply treat the freshly media blasted pieces/parts with a phosporic based acid product, like Picklex 20, then either use a 2 k Epoxy Primer, or Rustoleum rusty metal primer, use the rusty metal primer either in aerosol format, or use the canned stuff reduced up to 40% with automotive enamel reducer, then spray on with paint gun using a 1.3 to 1.5 tip, a cheapo HVLP gravity feed gun work well for this. As the said parts will be in storage indoors, the Rustoleum needs to fully cure about 2 weeks, then any enamel or Urethane paint can go over with no issues.If you go with epoxy, just check the re-coat windows, but it will need a scuff after a short period. If these are small panels, ie exterior panles, the same can be done, just keep in mind if using Rustoleum primer, to give this a long period to fully cure, after this, anything goes, 2 k urethane primer, lacquer based primers, epoxy primers, auto body fillers, etc. Do not use any acid etching primer over the above mentioned products, acid etch primer is to be used only on bare steel, then I would go over this with epoxy primer, read all instructions. Personally I would skip the etch primer, and go with eiother of the systems/ primers I have mentioned......Fred

Engine looks A1 and sounds Freakin Great, too bad you are thinking of selling, you will miss this one that's for sure....

I am going to try this. Douse the cyls with diesel or pentraitng oil, will also go into the valve chamber with a liberal dose too. First I will clean top of pistons of any carbon or crud, then will coat the tops with liquid wrench or PB blaster. I will let this sit, will try the bar again, will report back on my results. Actually an old time mechanic told me to heat up kerosene, and pour that over the pisotns and valves, he has had good results with that years ago............

This engine is coupled to a fluid driuve and M5 trans, will not be able to use momentum of the car to turn over engine. I have a huge 3/4 inch socket set with a big long breaker bar, could not budge it that way with the big socket on the crank bolt. I usually have a lot of torque as a human, but am afraid to break anything by reefing on the crank with a big breaker bar and socket.

Pat the head is off, the valves are all fine, a little carboned, but the ones that are open all spin around, the cyls are in great shape, almost no ridge, the vavlve chamber was quite clean no sludge, the oil pan had oil, and not water or sludge, it ios no off yet, but the dipstick revealed on moisture and oil at the right level. This engine has full -flow oil filtration, so wear and oil cleanliness should be at it's best for these engines. My plan is this, free engine in car, then pull engine, will dismantle and rebuild what and is necessary at a later date. My goal is to free the engine now, and see what shape the other valves and cyls are in in.

Hi all, 3 days ago after a ride on a real warm evening, noticed my carb was wet with gas, could smell it good too, used a rubber mallet, gave it a few taps, and then put her in the garage. This morning I went to start engine, no go, would not fire up. I then pulled the air filter, gave the throttle a crank, gas squirting in a nice stream in the carb. The engine still would not fire up. I then primed the carb with a 2 onunces of gas, away she went. I figure my float or needle was stuck open, then the remaining gas back siphoned out of the carb, and the result was needing a prime to start. The only confusing thing was when I gave the throttle a tug, there was a stream of gas squirting in the carb. You guys have any ideas, this has been the only time this year I have had to prime the engine to start, even after 5 days it does not require priming, I do notice in hot weather this becomes an issue..................................Fred

Hi James, an experienced mechanic I know from PA also suggested the same thing, that also sounds like it could work.....Thanx Fred

Could this be the kick down circuit, not functioning to allow the trans to drop back into 1st or 3rd if in high range. Does this also occur when in high range, if you punch in in 4th gear?

Hope all goes well for you. The drive between Duluth Mn and Thunder Bay Ontario is a beautiful set of scenery, anybody who gets the chance should take the opportuinty to do so, and better yet in an old Mopar......Fred