55 Fargo

This iron is soluable, and does not become evident in the water until it hits oxygen(air), or Chlorine, or peroxide or ozone, will also precipitate it. So water comes out clear, but you can taste and smell the iron, then after a short time the water turns amber to orange, depending on the iron content. My iron filter, which is a Iron Breaker 3, is draws air on regeneratrion, so the tank is air charged, as well the ozonator sterilizes the media bed (some type of sand), the well water flows into the unit, the iron gets precipitated, then gets filtered by the media, so clear iron removed water flows out. My unit is functioning as per service man just checked yesterday, but the unit is not precipitating the iron enough upon entry to the tank, thus it is not being filtered enough upon exit of the tank. These iron fliters work great in most cases, something is causing mine to fail or function at way below it's capabilities. I am super frustated tonight about this, good thing my softener removes anything else this iron remover cannot, so the water in the house is clear and softened, at least at this point. But if you take water after the iron filter, and before the softener, it will turn amber colored in a short time. I am fed-up, a new well might work, but maybe not, and it's a $6-7000 gamble......Fred

Yes a huge stroagew tank, but for Canadian use this is impractical except for a spring to fall use, for cottages etc. Winter is very old this would freeze up solid here. I new a guy that did this very thing, he used it for his cottage spring to fall use only, worked well, was huge tank to collect water. There are people that have cisterns underground, they pay for water to be trucked in, and thats what works for them, a major pain too.....Fred

Pat this is Winnipeg not Calgary, you guys don't even need AC in the summer. We have colder winters, but our summers, are a way hotter than Albertas, our summers are more like southern Ontarios, just not quite as long. Now having said that, I would not mind Calgary summer evenings, it is sometimes very muggy hot here at night in summer, last week it was 90 with a humidex of 106. Even if some iron leeches thorugh, it is harmless, itwill eventually setttle or get filtered thorugh the paper filter, if not too heavy. The ozone gen I have on my system, would kill any harmfull bacteria, of which my aquifer, consistently has none of........Thanx Fred

Thanx everyone for the replies, My well is 120 feet deep, going deeper in my immediate district is a big iffy for better water quality. Watson is right, Headingley arera ground water is salt, so not fit for human usage. My well has 60 grains hardness,6 ppm iron, light amounts of maganese,some sulphur smell, the well is 20 years old. The iron breaker 3 can and will remove 10 ppm iron 11 ppm sulphur and maganese, if it is functioning correctly, water comes out lcear, and smell free and remains clear after time. My trouble is sometimes it's clear, the next time it's parially clear. The good thing my softener cleans up any residual iron etc. My trouble is this, my kids want me to fill up a 350 gallon splash pool, it's been hot up here, and trying to fiure a way to do tis without getting iron in the water. The iron remover is good usually up to 800 gallons of water beofre backwashing, mine is way below this. My well has been tested within the last 2 years, coliform=0, ecoli=0, that is the biggest concern, nitrates normal. I am lucky, I have no house within a 1/4 mile, no livestock, no barns either......Fred

hehehehehe...........LOL

Hi, a lot of wells in this part of Canada, are like yours, mine in this district are not, very high in Iron, and super hard too. My dad grew up about 45 miles east of here, there water was an artesian well, people came from all over for water for making beer,wine and pickles, very good stuff..........Fred

Interesting Marty, please explain to this neophyte, what is it about ceramic coating of the manifolds, that causes a drop in under hood temps. My hunch is the ceramic coating insulates the exhaust pipes, allowing the hot gases and air temps to exit out the tail pipes. Is this a near correct assertation........Fred

Hey all, I know most of you Guy's are on municipal water, and so was I for the first 42 years of my life. The well water in Southern Manitoba can range from poor ( Red River region), high in Iron, Maganese, and generally hard, to excellent well water for most of the province, some wells do not even need a water softener. I have a high tech, Iron Breaker 3 iron remover, and a 60000 grain softener, plus an ozone generator, on the iron remover to sterilize it during backwashes. These items are a real PITA, the iron remover requires maintenace, so sediment or caking iron does not hamper the mechanics of it, my direct well ater has 6 ppm of iron, and is high in sulphur, the iron remover takes most of this out, the softener catches the remainder. But this unit works great sometime, and sometime it doesn't, very hit and miss. So this means I have to keep an eye on the water quality, and the water softener requires rust remover cleaner added to it's back wash on a 4 times per year basis. My question to any of you with well water supplies, what do you use, and if you have high iron, how do you deal with it. My equipment is US made, from very reputable companies.....Fred

Hi all, the crop directly across the road from my front yard got crop dusted today. The pilot kept flying his plane just over my front yard, house garage, you name it, and very low and too close for comfort. I was not amused, but it was a bit exciting to watch......Fred

Engines that are full of sludeg and dirt, compared to say, engines that were fairly clean before rebuild, . Will the old engine that is cleaner to begin with ,have a better chance of survival.....Fred

Years ago in Mechanics shop class, we rebuilt a few engines as a class thing. I recall using lubra plate on the bearing surfaces, would this help with intial start-up. Dirt getting loose in the passages would obviuosly reek havoc regardless. I wonder if this is as much an issues with full flow filtered engines, or if that is irrelevant in these caes. I think I would rather used a good used engine, then go through all the stress of the problems Joe is going through now. Joe I hope this is resolved for you ASAP........Fred

Yes I have heard of hi-perf aluminum slant 6s, they can be beefed up pretty darn good.....Fred

Hey all, over the past year we have lost some members tragically, as will happen as our members get older, and pass on the big forum in the sky. But what about our living members, that we have not heard of for a while such as Norm Carter, and JipJobXX, and some others too. Has anyone heard from these 2 Gents, and any of the others in the last little while. I hope they are alive and well, and still enjoying there old Mopars and Flat Head 6s......Fred

Hi Tod, my engine and fuel pump did the same thing the other day. It was around 90 and with the humidex about 106 f. I went for about a 20 minute ride, and and when I parked the car, and then came back to start her the same thing, let her cool down, primed carb and away she went. I could have poured cool water on the fuel pump, I do have my shield, but she vapor locked anyway. It was not the coil, because she started no problem, but could not get fuel, as she was vapour locked....................Fred

Joel, glad to here you found the leak. My fuel pump is doing something similar, I think it is a noisy little bugger too, as I listened to it about 10 minutes ago, it seems to be making some noise..........Fred

Fedoragent, someone on this forum, mught likely have th parts you need, If I had not sold my 47 Chrysler parts car, would pull the ebrake assembly off it, and get it to you, but it is a chrysler M5 trans, it may be different. I am going to ask around, and see what I can find. I am going to ask anyone on here if they can help you out, let Fedoragent know by PM. I am sure the parts may be able to be scrounged up on this forum, with a little time and asking......Fred

I think the Chrysler L had 6 speaks for itself, 1937 to 1972, these engine were manufactured, and rebuilt by many engine builders too. There apllications cars, trucks, boats, farm machinery,fork lifts, welders, pumps, you name it, a lot of military use too. These engines were built with sturdy mains, full pressure oil lubrication, hardened valve seats from the get go. I really think your so called expert Neighbour knows diddly squat about the Mopar flat head 6, there were and contiune to be fantastic work horse and very reliable engines. I wouldn't punch his face in that would land you in the county lock-up, just forget this idiot, and build your engine, there are lots of parts still available. Sold the rights to Nash, never heard of that , Chrysler built these engines until 1972, and sold millions, manya New York cab ran these engines for 100s of thousands of totally reliable miles. Don't let this fool tell you anything different, he obviously does not know what He's talking about.........Fred

Hi, and welcome to the forum, this place is a wealth of old Moapr info, specifically with a P15 in mind. I take it your missing the e brake assembly on the rear of the transmission, the e brake cable are aailable, from some sources, maybe even on Ebay. I would suggest getting in touch with some wrecking yard places like Moores, in South Dakota. You need to find the ebrake assembly, and install back onto the rear of the trans, and new brake shoe band for this too. What have you got right now, anything left from the e brake assembly. A suggestion, maybe fill in your profile with your Location, there may be other forum members near by who may have the parts, and/or can assist you. Let us know exactly where your at, what you need, and hopefully, someone may be able to sell you what you need, and can help you out. What conditon is your car in at this point, is it road worthy, is it running, do you have brakes working the car now.......................Fred

Went to start car and put away, gas boiled out of carb, as it would not start, primed carb with gas, started thern died out, still hot or not enough to prime carb to get fuel pump to push gas up. I wonder if my fuel pump is week, anyides/suggestions......Thanx Fred

Hey all , just went for a 20 mile ride to town (Selkirk), to run an errand with the 47. It is 90, with a humidex of 105, so muggy hot, car ran at 165 or so, it would no doubt run a lot hotter at longer highway speed or hills, but a a good test none the less. My engine lifter tick-tick sounds more noisy at hotter engine temps, maybe the oil was thinning out, hopefully no other issues, but would rather drive her on cooler days, 80 and below, preferably at 70, nice riding temps.....Fred

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My Chrysler Badge is what you are referring too. Now please any of you Guys, I need bumpers bad, I can't afford to replate mine, looking for a decent set of driver quality bumpres like the 1 in the pic from Bob T. Boy my car would look a lot better with decent bumpers, and polished SS trim

Here are more pics, this Church is the oldest stone Church in Western Canada, and is supposedly haunted, many British Soldiers lie in rest in tthe cemetary, with graves back to 1830s.

Hey all, took a crusie down old historic River Road in St Andrews Municipality, just north of Winnipeg in Manitoba. This road is about a 10 minute drive from where I live, it isa winding road along the historic Red River. The old Stone house and St Andrews Church go back to the 1820s. The dam is Lockport Manitoba on the west side of the River, a favorite place of mine, and where River Road Starts. Here are some pics.

Ditch the seat covers, and keep the dice. Hey Coatney what's up with the dislike of "dice and garlic"...........LOL