55 Fargo

Way to go Jon, glad you found the problem, sometimes it is a real pain, but it was worth it in the end...

Hi all, have a friend who does industrial hard chome, powder coat etc. I may have him do my bumpers in hard chrome, the first piece I will have test chromed is my hood lip trim. He also suggested having the engine head, manifolds, t/stat housing done too. I am hoping this can look not too bad, as I cannot afford nickel chrome plating at the moment. So anyone know about hard chome, and what to expect.....Fred

Hi all, my Sears and Roebuck lawn tractor, bought in 2005, battery still works, keep that one inside from October to April. My 47, bought the battery in 2005, thought it was 2006, but just checked. My 2005 Dodge Van, bought new in 2004, still has OEM battery. Is this a cooler climate thing, why batteries sem to last a little longer up here. I have a off brand 6/12 volt battery tender, will use it during the winter......Fred

Hi all, decided to test battery and charging condtions on my 47, which isa 6 volt system still, with new wiring, new 2/0 bat cables, and confirmed genny, VR. My battery is going on 4 or 5 years ol though, it is a 625 CC battery, so not that huge to begin with. I did a voltage test on battery, car has been sitting for at least 4 days, I havea master cut-off switch too. The voltage reading was 6.4 volts. I thn started the engine, and the genny was charging at 7.25 volts, which sounds pretty good. The battery voltage waould drop back a bit, once the engine is shut off. I am touching wood, not sure how much longer this battery will last........Fred

Just be mindful of new brake cylinders being slightly different cups or something along that line. The pushrods have been known to be too long in some cases, where they are installed, then the drums cannot clear over the shoes. Remember Drums can be machined out only .030 over factory size, this would bea measurement for example of 10.060, being the outer limit in most locales. I have OEM cyls rebuilt, but I do know others have had similar problems with pushrods being to long. I really think having your OEM cyls sleeved and rebuilt can be a good bet. If your buying new cyls, go with the best quality you can get, Raybestos, seems to have a decent quality wheel cyl, so I have been told

They should be the same length. Give us some history, how did you wind up with push rods of different lengths. Is this what you discovered on dismantling your brakes, or some other thing?.......Fred

Hey I live up north in Canada, but still start the car up, pull her out of the garage every now and then sneak a ride down the road if the road is clean and dry. The first year I had her on the road, I drove her around at -2 f, not a problem for the old girl..........Fred ps these cars drove all year round once upon a time, but now she is being pampered, kept inside, and off snowy/salty roads........Fred

Hey Aero, you gotta tell Him, you have actually been to Manitoba this summer:D

This would most likely be a 218, 3 spd trans, 3.90 or 3.73 rear end. There may be sources for those missing DODGE letters in Manitoba. You might even find another running flathead 6 to use in this car, if that is interest for you. I think I may have a set of park light lenses aan bezels for your car, if you want them...........Fred

Price for front disc brake conversion here in Canada, -Charlies kit $160.00 plus shipping -1980 Volare rotor/hub assembly 2 X $103.79=$207.58 -1985 Pontiac Grand Prix caliper assemblies 2 X $28.39= $56.78 -Brake hoses 2 X $18.29 = $ 36.58 -total $460.94 This price does not reflect tax, residual valve prices, brake fluid, US/Canada exchange on Charlies kit. Canadian prices are higher than US prices, but this is a very reasonable cost, and most likely well worth it, especially if you do not have good drums, and need to try and buy NOS drums.........

Should be close, there is most likely a schemeaticon here somewhere..... Here is the link fora diagram, just copy this good eneough, have sued this very one to re-wire my car http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=16394&highlight=wiring+schematic

Great offer Deez, sure wish I had a member an hour drive away. Guys like you and many others sure would be nice to have close by. Most guys up here, are SBC transplant in all streetrods, or are totally purists cringing on any change from OEM. Sorry about the rant, I just find a lot of you Guys in the US are nice and close to each other, which is very helpful in time of need........Fred

Bamfordsgarage is driving his 47 Canadian D25 Dodge, all the way from Edmonton Alberta Canada to Hershey PA (2500 miles approx). Now that's an adventure, and he is a brave soul...........Fred

Last few cars, 1 for the 5-6-7 Chebby people, and Model A crowd, and a 1959 Fury for us Mopar folk

Here we go.

Was in the City today to drive my Mother shopping, so my Son and I noticed this little Mustang and Ford get together, but there were some Mopars there too. See even Furd owners recognize the greatness of Moapr engineering. The comet in the pics is for sale, it is a west coast car in nice shape. The Black 60s New Yorker has the 413 under the hood. I shoulda brought out my 47 toady, the weather was perfect sunny, no wind and 65 or so.

Putting the drum price/availability? aside, front brake re-do job. -4 wheel cyls X $35.00 each =$140.00 -shoes re-lined=$100.00 -brake hoses=$30 to $40 -drums machined= $25.00 -total=$305.00 But this would be much more with NOS drums, or even decent used drums. Going to front disc, would be modestly more money, but well within reason.......Fred

Came across this car ina Winnipeg shopping center parking lot, very cool car, really nice body and paint. Had 4 wheel disc brakes, owner was not around to ask further???, probably had a more modern drivetrain.

Keith, that looks slick,you used the cap from your oem sender correct? Is this sender from JC Whitney, the Mopar Universal type, they are only $22.99, a lot better than the $85.00 I paid fro my 2 wire deal from Roberts....

Hi all, my sealed beams are baout 2 years old, and I think they are most likely 40/45 watt. I adjusted the headlight aim tonight, did not follow instructions, just adjusted them in at the top, and a little out on the sides. Then went on my dark gravel road to tweak, much better, light beam is cast much further and wider than before. I figured I should update, as I prefer to see the authour of a thread come to a conclusion, at some point on an issue.........Fred

Welcome Manitobamopar, I am in Manitoba too, been on this great forum for a few years. Hope to read your posts,..........Fred

Looks like maybe, 46-48 Chrysler cars

Interesting, as the 46-48 Mopar tanks were a 5 hole pattern sender, guess Mopar was trying progress for 49. Too bad cuz JC Whitney has 1 wire senders for Mopars, witha Ohm resistance range of 78-10 ohms........Fred

Can you use a universal single terminal fuel sender unit, very inexpensive. As long as it has the correct ohm range. 1 wire fuel senders are much easier to deal with and to locate, you may not have to pay the extra money froma place like Roberts or Bernbaums, when a universal 1 wire sender may work........Fred ps yes your's is a 1 wire sender, as they were after 1949

You can buy your own battery load tester for both 6 and 12 volts. If all of your connections, bat cables, starter and sol are in good condtion, then maybe your battery is not up too snuff. My current set-up uses an external solenoid switch, the starter is not a bendix drive, but has an overrunning clutch drive. You did not say how old the 6 volt battery is, how many cranking amps it has etc. A 6 volt battery with 1000 CCA, may be the ticket, it certainly would bea lot more umph, thana 625 cca battery, that may be getting weak. Where is your timing at, is it near TDC, sometimes, this can exacerbate the situation.