55 Fargo

Yes yes Rich, my intention is for a nostalgia type of thing, little better performance sound and visual stimuli. I drive this truck a lot, and will drive it more in the future, infact i like to drive every chance i get. She is rough, so I am not worried about winter driving and such. I most likely will just stick with stock, at least for now, the extra 500 bucks splitting the exhaust I can use elsewhere on the truck....

Thats very true, but has it not been done many times by forum members? Perhaps the Old Daddy bolt on flange is the best approach..

Update: Took manifolds to local machine shop, to get an estimate on a few things. Estimate for drilling hole into manifold for 2nd outlet about $50, if I want them to weld on a 2nd outlet, they would cut off an outlet from another manifold I have, set-up and welding about 4 hours maybe longer. To resurface the mating surfaces about another $100, this could end up being $500.00, an of course another set of pipes and a muffler, hangers etc. So to split my exhaust, with all added new exhaust, could be 7-8 hundred buck$. Not cheap up here in these parts. The mating surfaces on the manifolds look good, and He said may not require resurfacing, so more than likely stock she will be.........No fun up here

Hey I am not saying it is better than "Hush Mat", or "Dyna Mat", or any other automotive designed product. I will say its some kinda styrofoam, with reflective outside vapor barrier product. It will insulate and sound deaden well, it looks to be a a better product than the reflective bubble wrap, I am going to use it on my 55Fargo truck, and will update this on how well it is at a later date.

I like the oil treatment on older, rusted metals. I also find, that if any area does not hold water,moisture, crud and dirt, the rotting process is slow to nil. I find anything, such as a rocker panel or any other panel, that is not open to drain is vulnerable to rust through. When i repaired the floors and rockers on my 47 Chrysler, i did not use boxed rocker panels, used square tube steel covered on the top with 16 gauge sheet metal, nothing underneath to hold moisture and crud. My 2005 Caravan has some rust through on rockers only because I live on a gravel road, and the gravel dust along with the dust control worked it's way into the rocker panels. It no doubt was wet and moist and has rotted through, I cut open drains and nothing hangs in there anymore.

Going to attach with some type of adhesive such as "liquid Nails'. going to use it for the roof around back of cb interior, on firewall, maybe under the seat, and possibly door panels. I do know it is a water/moisture proof type stuff, but might not be appropriate for the floor itself. i would place it on the floor, then rubber mat with padding over it, not sure if that may be too spongy or not. This stuff is distributed in my area at Fort Distributors,http://p2000insulation.com/applications/ but I am sure it is manufactured and marketed under other names as well.

Chris you Da Man, and nobody has old car adventures like you. Well maybe Guy and Eunice, Best Regards to them, and they are also truly modern day explorers. As I have mentioned to you personally if I do 1% of what you have done, that will a dream for ME. in the mean time will live vicariously through your adventures. have a great time, and as mentioned before, looking forward to your Northern expedition in February............

Found this product today, marketed locally as P2000, in thickness from 5/16 to 2 inches, 1 inch =R20, the reflective outer is a vapor barrier too, water and moisture proof. I can do the entire inside of the truck for about $40. This stuff is very flexible and durable. This should makes things nice and quiet, cooler in summer and warmer in winter. Much better quality than the reflective bubble wrap.......

0f right this minute, suns going down, calm outside, temp closer to freezing point ina few days,a needed break for us...

My garage can be about 35 f, I pull choke on full, hit the stomper, fires right up open choke to 1/2 way, just about every time is like this for a cold start. Now mine is 12 volts, and they just start better, no doubt about it. I can drive truck in a few minutes in 30 below, no bucking runs pretty smooth even when cold. My truck will heat up very quickly to 160f t/stat is doing it's job. My truck has a throttle cable, no fast idle cam associated with the choke.

Unless thee areas are holding moisture, or you are in a very salty humid environment, not sure this should be a problem. If you drive these cars in snow, wet gravel roads, salty slushy stuff, most likely will then be an issue. If you park your car for months on end in tall wet grass and weeds, that could be a problem too. Ward, possibly a Shutz gun, spray in rubberized rocker guard, or has Joe mentioned spray in something with a paint gun. I also believe in good drain holes in rockers, and door bottoms but that is just Me....good luck

Paul, do you retain the heat riser in this equation? How about the exhaust pipes, straight back or with a cross over pipe?

DC stay home until the wind stops, and main roads are plowed. Don't bother clearing snow until the drifting stops. Thats like following kids as they make a mess from room to room. We had lots of that last year and some this year. I do believe North America is having one of it's coldest snowiest winters on record..

Sounds like you had a good day Tim. BTW, right now it's far too cold for any salt to do anything, roads are either dry, or snow and ice remnants to dang cold to have any effect on vehicles, it's in those areas where the temps are closer to the freezing point, or at least above 0f, that salt is a problem. Hmmm, I dunno Tim, starting the old Plymouth, and not taking it out of the driveway, kinda reminds me of a good friend of P15 D24, who once lived in the Milwaukee area, he was a true gent..

Hi Bob, so with your added carbs, and headers, that Fargo have a quite a bit more kick did she? I am tossing the idea of splitting the exhaust and going with a 2 bbl carb, or staying completely stock, I have a 251 engine. The 230 you mention, was that a Canadian Dodge, then it may have been a 228 long block....thanx for the post

Tim , you "crazy" talkin. I did take a deep breath outside, damn near knocked me over.....LOL Listen anybody who lives in these severe cold temps, know that it is not just uncomfortable, or a nuisance, it is downright deadly dangerous weather. Tim I guarantee, I can handle much colder temps than you, but i am acclimatized to it, just like you can probably handle hot humid conditions better than Me, but i usually do okay in the heat. The truck door, Tim, you been watchin Me, I banged my head so frickin hard on that door opening on that truck i saw starts and stripes for cripes sakes. Now go plug in your electric blanket, and fugget about dis cold............LOL

Its alright Tim, you do seem a little jumpy, now take a deep breath, and repeat to yourself out loud all is well in the world...

Just checked out new manifold with both compressed air, it definitely gets deflected, when the heat riser plate is in the cold position. I also used a short piece of speedo cable insert, pushed through an exhaust port, the flap stops it in the cold position, and does not in the warm position. I may take the manifold to work, and run it through the xray scanner, for fun

Have never seen the screw on types in Canada, on any I have had apart. The shaft plate is deflecting compressed air, and when you move the counterweight, the air moves freely. I am confident it is fine. But I will look with a fibre optic when I get a chance

Yup, got another on the bench like what you describe, when i did the 47 Chrysler, they unbolted, but not very easy. I am leaning toward not pulling therm apart. The heat riser and flap seem fine. I do have access to a flexible fibre optic,maybe I will look inside to be sure. I will clean up,paint and install. The next big hurdle is getting the 1 on my engine off now,without breaking any bolts. These are fun......

hi Shel yes this manifold is in real good shape, nothing is loose on the flap and shaft, you can feel it. The manual does state as you have posted, snug the 2 manifolds together, then install, then tighten 4 bolts that tie the 2 together. I have the gasket, so most likely will take apart for cleaning and reassembly...

That heat riser was not repaired, it is original, those bolts are just buffed up on top. Now this more than likely does not leak, so am reluctant to seperate them, unless it is the wisest thing to do....thanx

Don and Tym, don't panic, this will be short lived cold in your areas, no need to thicken up the blood for this it will be short lived. Just came back from a drive in the Fargo, it's dark out, 30 below, went to see a fire that was burning, it was just the local dump burning some old mattresses and wood trash etc. Now 30 below in a vintage vehicle is a whole new experience.....

Nope you be wrong already, it be 13 bolt, your only 1 volt short of an answer..... I meant bolt

Hi all, just picked up this set of manifolds today, drove 30 miles in 30 below weather to get them. They are in good shape, heatriser intact and working well, byt function. What do you Guys thionk, clean up, paint and install em as is, or separate them and install new gaskets between intake and exhaust manifolds? Paid $70