stylesadamson

Tie or drag link? If it is drag link I suspect it is supposed to be as my 52 B3B is OEM bent.

Put a 3.73 Ford 8.8 and a chev s10 t5 trans and do 75 all day long!

I looked and never found so I re-drilled and tapped existing bolt holes for studs.

scroll down this thread....I found that a Jeep YJ PS setup works great

T5 will absolutely transform your truck! Simple swap well documented here. Full sync with overdrive is so much more drive-able.

https://www.allproautomachine.com/ They did a good job drilling and installing studs in my bell housing for T-5 swap.

I did Scarebird disc conversion up front and a disc brake Ford 8.8 rear end. Stops great with no booster.

I replaced the rear end in my 52 b3b with a Ford Explorer 8.8 limited slip disc brake rear. Great fit.

I've got some rear brakes for you off a 52 B3B. PM me and I'll send you pics. Styles

Almost everything on our trucks were self grounded. The lights are single pigtail grounded through the fixture as opposed to dual pigtail with a power wire and a ground wire. Starter is effectively the same.

On my 52 I have added power steering, T5 5 speed, Scarebird front disc’s, Ford 8.8 rear end(3.73 gear instead of 4.10 and disc rear brakes and parking brake). I find I do not need booster. This was my preference as opposed to frame swap. Regards, Styles

Probably worth trying Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker before you remove the pan.

Pertronix

just get 2 alligator clip leads and check them using your battery to be sure

Use 2 small blade fuse boxes on the firewall. One for switched items and one for always hot. I’ll post some pics later. Relays on any high current items like horns. I have switched every light on my 52 to led so all are low current.

Jeff, Also be aware that any LED lights you use must be designed for AC not DC(the link I provided works for both) as DC LED's will not work on POS ground. AC lights will work for either POS or NEG ground. Styles

You bet. Every light on my truck is LED bye the way. Regards, Styles

https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Motorcycle-Crystal-Glass-Metal-Headlight-6V-6-Volt-26-40w-LED-Light-Bulb-Each/233240000192?hash=item364e2ff6c0:g:L7wAAOSwIS9cOhLw:sc:USPSPriority!80211!US!-1

Got them on my 52 B3B ....they are awesome!

The selector rod needs adjustment. That is the rod connected to the cam that moves the rod forward when the column shift lever is pulled back.

Here is what I started with. The jeep is front steer so the pitman arm points to the rear of the vehicle. The b3b being rear steer... reorienting the pitman arm 180 to face the front makes the gear rotation proper for our rear steer. This pic shows the portion of the pump bracket ground off to allow mounting using the water pump bolt. Here is the bracket installed. I used a couple of angle brackets that I had to secure the bracket to one head bolt. Here is the double pulley that replaced the serpentine pulley to run the alternator. I cut the steering column and shaft just above the gear...removed the shaft then cut the column just below the shift linkage on the column. I will probably replace the column when I install the T5 that is next on my list. My plan was to use the original shaft as I believed it to be .75" prior to removal but discovered it is actually .780 requiring turning it down or drilling out the .75 u-joint so I just replaced the steering shaft with a solid .75" from Speedway...$20 as I recall. The u-joint is 3/4 30 x 3/4 round and I welded it onto the shaft. I used the Borgeson u-joint because at 3.25" long it fits perfectly between the gear and the cut column allowing preservation of the shift linkage. The three original holes are used for the gear. The top 2 holes line up with the gear perfectly however the front one requires a 1/2" spacer between the frame mounting bracket and the gear. I made one from 1/2" bar stock. The bottom rear bolt hole on the gear is secured to the frame using 1/2" x 1" wide bar stock pic'ed below. Bolt through frame into bar stock...gear bolted to bar stock. I heated and bent the drag link end of pitman using a press to get the proper angle and ground out the proper beveled bore for the drag link. Plenty of material. New reservoir and hoses. Alternator adjustment arm (I already had this curved one but there are plenty longer curved ones out there that would work) attached to the top pivot bolt on the pump bracket. Belt sizes 50" and 26" Secured the lower column with cheap bracket. This will change after T5 install. Here is the truck. Regards, Styles

I just converted to power steering using a pump, bracket, gear and pitman arm from a 93 jeep wrangler yj. Ultra simple conversion. only had to purchase new hoses, a double pulley for the pump and a u-joint for the steering shaft. Used complete yj steering setups are readily available and cheap. Two of the frame holes matched the gear exactly and very simple fabrication required to utilize the third and the pitman arm. Small amount of bracket casting must be ground away to mount using one water pump bolt. If you are interested in pics reply or email me and I will send pics and further installation instructions. Steers perfectly with no play. Regards, Styles stylesadamson@gmail.com