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Hickory
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So reading another thread reminded me to clean out the oil pressure bypass. Took it all apart and carefully cleaned with a brass brush. Soaked it in a cleaner before and after cleaning and then reassemble with assembly lube. I counted how many turn the adjustment screw came out(12) but reassembling I noticed that it is in so far that the mechanics wire is not in the slot. I'm thinking it has been adjusted to make up for loose bearings.
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Semmerling, what weight does your transmission call for. My 29 doesn't say in the users manual but I've been told it's supposed to be 800weight. I'm wondering what should I use in mine. They are non-snychro straight cut gears.
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Rods and bearings have arrived. Pics at lunch time ☺️?
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Is this new fluid as when all the issues started. It's just strange that only reverse has been effected. Did putting it in to an another gear first and then quickly shifting to reverse help.
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I'm wondering if I'm going to have a similar issue with my 29. When I pulled the engine the clutch looks like new along withe the shiny pressure plate. I'm assuming it was changed not to many miles ago. But when I removed it there were washers between the pressure plate and the flywheel which I intended to remove. The washers remove the stability of the pressure plate by not being flush with the flywheel. Now I wonder.....
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My bearings are in the mail. The cylinders are bored .125 over already and things are still moving
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New tool. Homemade hub puller. Remember I don't have traditional lug nuts. Tis grips at the hub cap threads.
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"One of these things is not like the others..."
Hickory replied to Bob Riding's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Boy I'm digging the 6 blade fan. I might want one. My rad is the front of my car so the only mod I will be able to do is a slightly larger fan and more blades. Nice engine. -
See what I mean, I'm thinking about painting the head black. The thought is there but not convinced.
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The solenoid can click and still be the problem. Using a test light put it on the solenoid output and to ground. Then hit the key to see if it lghts up. If you can't see the test light I like to use a horn as a test light. If there is power and ground you can heat a horn. You may be able to manually engage the solenoid if it uses an exposed pivot for the Bendix. I've been known to do that.
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I'm looking for an opinion, I really like the way the black and green look together. I was surprised at how nice they look, at first I thought it was an ugly green but it came out nice. Originally it was that green(or real close) with black electrical components and carb with a silver head. And now I feel a silver head is going to ruin the look. Another question is how good is the Andy bernbaum silver in a rattle can. Does it hold up to the heat and chemicals well. Rattle Can is not a 2 part paint and usually doesn't hold up.
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You know what mine is external and I'm reusing the old one. It works and the new ones are junk.
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They are the same tension as what I removed. That doesn't mean they are right. Now remember that it's only mechanical advanced no vacuum. I change them due to being stretched and allowing Play without it running. Made it hard to set timing.
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Had to make other parts work in my distributor. Springs are from an olds. The points are from a 73 Ford. These parts fit well. Had to make things work since I didn't want to spend the high prices for a northeast distributor. On place I could find points was meyers. And they didn't have the points but a whole updated breaker plate. Around $300. Nope I gott-er done.
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Check for a backing plate rub also. Real common after doing some work on brakes.
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I had to get creative with the needle valve, I took valve lapping compound and put it on the needle and lapped it to the seat. Now it's uniform and shiny.
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I have to make my own rebuild kit. I own the infamous Stromberg U1. Considered a fire hazard due to cracking. I have gone through it and no cracks. Only one supplier can make the rebuild and it's $500 and 9 months out.
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5am you could find me out in my trailer painting engine parts again. The picture color is a hair different but it's a real close match to what was on the block before tear-down. I mixed the color myself and used axalta/nason fullcryl single-stage paint.
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I just sent the block to the machine shop. So now back to painting parts. I still have the carb to rebuild. Allot of bolts and nuts and springs to clean. And I will also have repairs needed on the car. Updates on the engine will be coming.
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I'm glad to see a reference to my thread the babbitt hole. I take pride in doing what I can. But you can't do it all, all of the time and sometimes you have to way out the fun, education, experience and price to make a proper judgement. Stay dirty and keep it yours?!!!!!!
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