keithb7

@Todd B as of this morning there is a guy on Facebook, marketplace. Located in Versailles Kentucky. He has a 1928 Dodge Bros car that he is tearing apart. Likely for to Hot-Rod it I assume. He’s offering the the engine, clutch, tranny, drive shaft, diff, axles, wheels, brakes etc. open to offers for prices. I don’t know where you are located. Might be close to you. Way too far away from me to buy anything. Regards. Keith

1928 Dodge Standard 6 four door sedan, stock weighs in at 2721 lbs. A few more specs you may be interested in: Price $895 ($13,449 today's dollars, cheap!). Engine: 208 cubic inch 58 brake HP at 3,000 RPM. Net horsepower 27.3 1928 was the first year of the "Standard Six" model. July 30 1928 was the date that Walter P Chrysler purchased and acquired the Dodge Brothers company.

I’m in BC Canada. Sent to “Leakers” in Keremeos, BC.

I am coming into a 1949 Windsor 251 engine, fluid drive and semi-auto tranny later this month. I have offered it to Harvie. If he passes, sounds like a good excise to dig into it and learn. Perhaps I can lean some skills and think about rebuilding it? We’ll see. Would be fun to try. Host a thread and share my findings.

Yes, I too use Rain-X as the WW wipers on my '53 are far from adequate. It works well. I tend to not drive my vintage cars in the rain. However sometimes you get caught by surprise. The rain-x is a lifesaver. I have not the time lately to dig in and try to improve my stock wipers, so until then rain-x is the solution for me.

I've reviewed everything. Thanks everyone who posted. I have nothing more to add, nor further comments on this thread. Cheers...Keith

@desoto1939, I have not had the time to sit down, digest and fully understand what exactly you said. If you have read many of my posts, you'll find that I seek to fully understand not only how a part works, but why. I quickly read your posts, skimmed over them as I had a busy week, and did not fully digest them. I am sorry if my lack of a response in 2 days upset you . As of this writing I still have not digested your posts regarding my oil seal issue. I want to fully grasp the topic. I appreciate the time you put in to help, and the posts you made. I will read them probably tomorrow evening and respond at that time. Your comments appear to be out of frustration and emotion. I post a ton on here and I am respectful to others, and grateful for the help I get. I think my posts versus my reputation points ratio, supports my positive activity on this great forum. I am sorry I didn't meet you time line expectations for a response. Sometimes life, family and my job take the best of my week. I don't always get all the time here that I would like. Regards, Keith

Where are you located. May have a fluid drive from a ‘49 Available.

In my experience, the ‘28 I drive starts to get shaky and kinda dicey at 40 mph. Not sure of top speed. I suspect it’s not much more. Overcoming air resistance, as speed increases, is a lofty goal for these smaller sedans. They were adequate tho in 1928.

Good insight @Dodgeb4ya Wow. A real live axle puller that I’ve only seen in my old manuals. Cool!

@TooljunkieI think you may have solved my dilemma. I suspect you may be right about the hub of the drum sliding into that gap. The lights came on when I read your comment. This is my first time dealing with this style of axle assembly. Someone else installing a different grease seal had me mis-guided. Thanks everyone. I think this mystery has been solved. I should have posted the video showing my dilemma clearly, in the beginning.

Thanks @Sniper. When I google search Timken 450775 nothing looking like my grease seal appears. I believe your 51 seal taps into the brake backing plate. It is retained by an interference fit in the backing plate. The earlier type has a built in retainer and mounts on the 5 backing plate studs. @desoto1939 does McCord 8430 come up in your cross reference books? I don’t quite see a viable solution yet. See my video here for a clear visual, and explanation. Thanks for all your help so far.

@desoto1939 Perhaps I do need the smaller seal you mentioned that mounts behind the 5797 seal. To help hold the grease in. The 5797 leaves a considerable gap all the way around the axle. It won’t retain grease well as it sits, and will allow considerable dust to enter. I shall take another look at my parts and service books to see if I can spot this extra inner seal you speak of.

A date code example that I have seen: A = 1 B = 2 C =4 D = 5 E = 6 F = 7 G = 8 H = 9 I = 0 That covers a decade. Stores don’t really expect to have a battery come back for warranty after 3 years. So those date codes will serve fine. Let’s assume you see a battery in the store with a dot type sticker on it. In the dot it reads “H6” figure 2009, 6th month. You’d do well to pick something like an H12. Dec 2019. Better yet would be “I1” 2020 1st month.

Another unfortunate story where a good product goes South.

Had my Windsor running today. Only moved it in and out to give me some extra working space in the garage. Runs great! Cool here today. Started up instantly. The good old well maintained 6V system. Makes me chuckle. Must be a daily event, seeing posts on social media asking about converting to 12V. Or installing an 8V battery.

I got fed up with the split bar-type double flare tool again last week. I was attempting to make new brake lines for my ‘38 Plymouth. I finally ordered something different. The Cal-Van in line double flare kit. I ordered it yesterday. It arrived today via Amazon Prime. Sunday delivery! I’m impressed with both the tool and Amazon. The tool is quick and effective at easily making factory looking double flares. The little blocks hold the brake line much better than the split-bar tool. Making the job easier and efficient. I should have bought this “in-line” type tool a long time ago. When I started making brake lines. It’s much better. I shake my head wondering why I cuss’d the old tool so long. As per pic, old split bar type tool and new in-line type tool seen together here.

There are no dumb questions Todd. Ask plenty! Some of the dumbest things I have ever done is charge along without asking any questions. Then I felt like a way bigger idiot when I broke stuff or failed to repair it. I look forward to seeing more info on your Dodge and some pics.

Thanks Richard. I am weary about the National 5797 number also. Looking at some pics of it, the center hole seems like the larger 1.75" hole. Which I already have, and is too big. If I could find actual dimensions of the shaft size for the 5797 seal I could confirm whether or not it will work. I will endeavour to try and find the 5797 dimensions.

I have an original "Preliminary" parts book here for my 1938 Plymouth. Looking at rear axle group, outer grease/dust seal. I ordered a set based on the part number provided in the parts book. That part is 651725. When I went to install it, it fits up and bolts in just fine. However the centre hole is for about a 1.750" diameter axle. (measured where the seal sits). My axle measured up at about 1.376" in this same spot. The old seal that I removed from my car is the right size. The new one, too large. It stands to reason that Chrysler likely had larger diameter axle shafts for 7 passenger and limo models of the same car. No? Looking in parts manual, I do see that there are different axle part numbers listed for these larger cars, with probably a greater payload rating. One thing that stumps me is, when looking in my 1938 parts manual they only show 1 size outer axle seal for all models. Part number 651725. Another thing, when I look on line for 651725 seals, it appears to me they all are for the larger 1.750" diameter axle. There is no part number on the seal that I removed. I don't want to order another set of incorrect seals. Can anyone able to help me with the proper seal number to order? Pic below comparing my removed seal and new 651725 seal. Perhaps, the incorrect seal was provided to me, even though the original box does read "For Chrysler, Desoto, Dodge, Plymouth 651725 or 891437" Thanks in advance. - Keith

I owned and drove a 1968 Beatle in about 1991. Wish I kept it. I don't even have 1 photo of it. Seems like it might be a fun future project some day perhaps.

Following up in the pin-stripes on the rims: I just found these drawings, advertisements for the 1937 Plymouth. Those sure look like the stripes I revealed when sandblasting.

Have you been able to trace the battery cables, both ends and removed and cleaned up everything? To ensure very good contact. How old are you battery cables? Are they stiff and internally corroded? What gauge wire are they? Do you have a multi-meter to check for continuity and voltage readings at various connection points? Start with reading the voltage across your battery posts. What is it? The take a reading at the key switch with reference to a good ground. Turn the key on, check those contacts. Further check voltage readings at relays, solenoids, head light switches, whatever is not working where it should. That's a great start to troubleshooting your described problem.

Time for paint...What is with new tires? Many people may wonder, how could anyone get excited over new, old-type bias ply skinny tires?

While sandblasting my 4 rims I discovered 2 lime green circular pinstripes around each rim. Outside surface. As illustrated below. I have seen a few same period restored Mopars with similar pin stripes. Perhaps this was a dress-up option? Or was it a stock pinstripe on the higher end Chrysler and Desoto models? At this time I do not know if these pinstripes were available for Plymouth or Dodge cars. There is also a chance the pinstripes were painted over when my car got a $59 paint job in the late 60’s or so. My Rims are stamped near the valve hole with 11-37 date codes. Along with the CPDD code. One rim which appeared a little more pitted from rust than the others is dated 1935. Likely picked up somewhere during the past 82 years. All appear salvageable and they turned pretty true when tested. We shall steam ahead.