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The wheels should be 5 on 4.5" if it is a 1/2 ton. I prefer the newer style wheels myself. Mine are 5.5" wide so they accept a 235 75R 15 tire pretty good. These older factory wheels are still around and can be found .... without really searching I have found a few and am able to come up with 4 that look like a matched set .... what I mean is, the 2 on this side are Ford wheels and the 2 on the other side are Mopar wheels .... they look the same and use the same sized hubcap. I have seen some wheels on Ebay and they want $80 each and they do not know how to measure and check what size hubcap they use .... A local guy1.5 hours away wants to part out a old 60's Dodge truck .... He decides to sell wheels at $75 ... cheaper then ebay ... expects me to jack up the truck and remove them, then pay for disposal of the tires plus my gas to drive 3 hours round trip .... cheaper to just buy from ebay and pay shipping. Then I found a guy on FB that sold me 2 bare wheels for $20 each and delivered them to my house ... they are out there you just have to look. Then Wheelsmith sells a brand new powder coated reproduction for maybe $110? ... reasonable. Then Hubcap Mikes sells these caps, I just got them this morning and they are $30 each + shipping. Happy with the quality, they are not really thin and flimsy they are stout. For a daily driver, I think they are fine .... hubcaps can fall off, especially older ones with a loose clip. They are expensive and difficult to find ... If I lose one ... I'm out $30 and 10 minutes to get on line and order another ... not a huge deal. Also I'm biased to this style of wheel. When I was 25 years old in the 80's and could find cheap used Cragars or any classic custom wheels ... I liked this style best .... stock black wheel, baby moons and beauty rings. With the rings installed, they will be all chrome with a strip of black wheel showing. And it is just what I like and want ... I have had the same wheels on several cars in the past. For a truck some may like just the hubcap and no rings.

The doors are installed and the heat is hooked up. Tomorrow I plan to install the lift. We were going to install it last Wednesday but it didn't get above freezing that day so I put it off till tomorrow. This will be my last entry to this post. When the 50 that I got from Alshere59 on the lift I will start another post about working on that car. More news latter on another post.

I welded a bracket on the log to imitate the boss on the factory manifold. It seems to line up correctly but I’ll know for sure when I get it back on the motor.

Almost there. Just need to tweak the gas pedal linkage a little more. Looking at March 5th for initial start up date. That gives the month of March to deal with last minute problems before the BBQ.

Mondays amiright

And here is the clutch.

I found this original 1950 manual on line and it was reasonably priced so I got it. The pages are yellow but it looks like all the pages are there. These brake diagrams may help.

DANG! That is one good looking sold truck in the light of the sun! I don't think you'll have any regrets!

His dry and wet compression tests are the same, so the rings are probably not the problem. I would inspect the #3 valves and seats, they are probably not sealing well. Once the issue is confirmed, I would check/clean/replace/lap all the valves and call it a day. There is probably no need to mess around with the pistons/crank assembly, if there are no signs of bad things inside the bores (rust, pitting, vertical marks, wear spots). For a quick valve check (assuming that a simple visual inspection does not show the problem) shine some bright LED flashlight into the exhaust\intake port and see if the light is coming through the closed valve, in a dark garage.

If it keeps leaking - yes you are. But regardless of what it is, you are likely looking at a rather time-consuming project. I would just watch your fluid levels and keep driving it.

Looks like somebody gotta bug up their tailpipe...

Mondays amiright