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All goods. I would love PS on my car but would rather have AC. Lol I have manual dual circuit brakes with front disc which I'm fully happy with. If I was doing a modern engine swap I'd definitely do PS than. Id want to keep my original column and wheel. I steer from the spokes near the center while at crusie, so I wouldn't have an issue oversteering. That could be solved by installing a rack or gear that has sport valving or run a lower pressure pump to cut back some of the steering wheel leverage. I'm no expert on PS systems but I'm sure it can be done or has been. Especially for someone that has a physical impairment that needs PS. I love full original cars as well as modified. Each person has that choice with their car. Earl

Tim, Well, unfortunately I have a conflict with the BBQ again this year and won't be able to make it. I look forward to seeing all the pictures next week. Thanks for continuing to host this great event, hopefully I'll see you there next year. Enjoy, and congrats to your engagement. Eric

although Im far behind on my project and am more likely to leave it as is, I was intrigued by the new electric power steering conversions people are doing. It involves taking the electric power steering motor out of the 1990-2000ish saturns. I think for earlier Mopars the steering shaft cover has to be cut out. Im still trying to figure if its feasible on my 52, but its certainly worth looking into

I came home last night to find a box waiting for me. This morning the content found it's place amongst a couple other collectibles. It looks spectacular and I couldn't be more proud of receiving it. Thanks Tim, I am truly honored and I WILL see you next year for the 10th. Dave

Gotta love those country roads. I love the pictures of all the great scenery on your drive. This place looks like a very nice place to live and burn up the roads in an old car. I will take a trip one day in my 48 Plymouth when I have the time and the money to get away but down here in the Gulf coast we haven't got many country roads with that kind of beauty to take in. I also love the car. Is the car original with engine or did you replace the flat head? Larry

Scroll the color charts all the way to the bottom. You'll find a memo at the bottom with a link. That will bring up the page with the Dupont ChromaPremier formula and the color code YS410N and some other letters that designate it as Dupont's premier line and the cost code. All those toners and the balancer and binder are still active and current for non waterborne. Now, that same formjula number is available in Nason, Dupont's value line of paint products. The toners used are completely different as are the amounts but the color comes out the same for Spectramaster solid color codes. You can use the Nason for solid colors, codes with metallics and pearls from Spectramaster need to be done in Dupont. The Dupont lines may give you a more precise color match when you need to do a blend to factory paint typical of body shop repairs. Chances are you can also get the same color code mixed in a base clear or acrylic enamel, whatever you're more comfortable spraying. I was going to check on that today as well as the RAL number to see how close they came in formulas. Forgot all about it while at work.

Brent, I'm certain that Tim will not charge you for moss removal, but please take showers out doors!! See you tomorrow evening.

To remove the trim I would go to an autoparts store and then get the plastic trim removal tools. do not use the metal tools you are going to scratch the paint. Before trying to remove any trim look on the inside of the hood to see if there are any bolts that might be hold the trim in place. Then carefully pry off the bottom of the trim and little at a time and then go along the entire length of the trim. Most cars used metal clips. When we did the trim on my 39 Desoto we replaced the clips with plastic clips. If you go to a good automotive paint supplier they should have a selection of trim clips. Take a piece of the trim with you and get a clip that is a good fit in the space and then get the clips that has the plastic stud to push into the hole in the body. You might have to experiment with several styles. The nice part about the new plastic is that it willnot rust and leave rust marks on the body and paint. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

That's the same code number listed on the DEPTCA site. It is however for a single stage urethane which was NOT in production when the trucks were built. Any jobber mixing Dupont or Axalta and hasn't converted to waterborne should be able to mix it. Another option for you, my local O'reilly story sells Nason, a company owned by Dupont., They order paint by number, premixed. Your local may do the same if they don't , mix in house. It won't hurt to ask. Since the number is for the ss, it's complete tone accuracy to the cream may not be 100 %.

I've owned almost 50 old cars since I was 16 (I'm 46 now). My first one was a '59 Studebaker Lark VI with a 3 on the tree. Some were more memorable than others. But one thing I enjoyed no matter the make, model, or year was just sampling each one to see what it was all about. I'm not restoring my 51 Meadowbrook, but I'm getting it reliable and roadworthy again, and fixing what previous owners have neglected over time. When I bought the car I felt that it was slowly working its way toward that everlasting "its been sitting for 20+ years" thing, and then the owner dies, leaves the car to his unappreciative children whom call the junkyard to come get it so the eyesore is removed from their property. At least I'll be driving it again soon (currently working on the brakes). I'll do other things to it like rebuild the carb, remove the radiator and have it boiled or recore it if needed. Tune-up, new radials, fluids changed, everything greased, etc. is probably the most I will do to it. The car is basically all original, so I plan to just leave the original paint and interior and all of the scuffs, scrapes and dents that go with it. As long as its mechanically sound, and not dangerous to drive its ok with me. Even though I'm no great mechanic (I usually get help from others), I enjoy working on these old pieces of history because their design was fairly simple. NO COMPUTERS or any extra-complicated BS is what attracts me. I always wish that the car could speak to me and tell me it's history. I also like the feeling of accomplishment when I work hard to get something fixed right.

Thank you for sharing the pics and story. The work you have done is amazing; wish I could see it in person

Thanks for looking. The P11 sat in the back of my barn for 20+ years and it was a great relief to get started on the project. Have spent lots of time on military vehicle restorations and found that the mechanics were easier on the car (the flathead 6 is common on army 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks), but the body and interior is something else! On the other hand I discovered pretty good parts availability, particularly for fabric materials to sew up for the interior, and rubber products that were ready to use. Still chasing after some parts (see above) and am waiting for the mud season to end here to get it out on the road for more shake down runs. Rich, the show in Reading has been too long a reach for my heavier vehicles but perhaps the P11 is the way to get there. Matt, the idea of doing your '41 in USAAC marking is great. I spend time with archive pictures from the North African theater to get some sense of the local army build shops at work. Staff cars in "41/42 were there before the Jeep and as such had to do light reconnaissance work and be able to keep out of trouble on the "roads". This lead to lots of modifications; functional bumpers, blackout lighting, grill guards, cooling upgrades, etc.. In large part they used materials on-hand from maintaining the regular fleet. The military parts book for the P11 indicates clearly that no bright work is permitted both outside and inside the vehicle. This applied to the "drafted" vehicles taken from dealer lots at the start of the war as well as to the factory orders. John

Last batch of P11 shots- still working out some details. Hope for some help on OP questions. Thanks, John

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