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I have a chopped 50 Chrysler with a 251, I also have a pretty healthy collection of slant six engines and vintage & rare speed parts. Plan is to take the stock rebuilt 251 out, sell it and drop in the rebuilt 225/OD 4 speed that was in my truck before I sold it. Also thinking about installing one of the fully ported big valve race heads and one of the Isky .505 lift cams that are sitting on the shelf. Might also use the triple side draft Weber intake. I am a welder/fabricator by trade and swapped a slant into a 48 chevy aerosedan so that part is no problem, Im just looking for any pics or info from anyone that has already swapped a "long engine" for a slant.

Had a productive weekend working on my 52. We just about have it finished. We did get it running but ran out of time to get it 100% completed and road tested. But we did get it up to temp and set timing and carb. Retorque the head bolts as well. Need to install the lower flywheel housing cover and the hood. Adjust rear brakes with Ammco tool and she will be ready for road testing/seating the rings. I will be out again this weekend to finish it up and trailer it home. Earl

I have 3.55 gearing and can't see going any taller than that with this heavy old truck. I can feel it a bit it going uphill. It get's up to speed real quick going downhill. There is no doubt that it would be more pleasant to drive with a peppier engine........ and an automatic. Because of the traffic here and the way the stop lights are timed I spend a fair amount of time rowing through the gears. I works but it is less than ideal. I have thought about building the flatty up but the idea of putting a bunch of money into a top drawer rebuild coupled to this transmission kind of kills it for me. I am going to drive it this way for a while before I make any rash decisions. Jeff.

If you install a block-off plate, check your screw depth. Once upon a time, I fabricated a block-off plate that was thinner than the fuel pump flanges, but I used the existing machine screws. The fuel pump cam hit one of the screws. It unscrewed hard, but I got it out. It was no longer straight.

Come on PP, stop torturing us and just paint it !!! ...

Thanks everyone for your input thus far. As a little update, I got out my step ladder and some Mr. Clean in a spray bottle, along with a small plastic brush and scrubbed out the drip rail as well as I could all the way around. I then went to my local do-it-yourself car wash (with the step ladder) and used the pressure washer from up top to clean it all out as best I could. It's hard to tell which of the spot welds, if any, have actually separated, but that's my next task. What I can say is that the original fabrication was spot welds every few inches followed by seam sealer. Over the years (and a few paint jobs), the seam sealer largely broke apart and came out, but there's a few areas where it's still visible. Even if a few of the spot welds have separated, the sheet metal pieces do not appear to be in any near-term danger of actually letting go of each other. There's plenty of other welds holding the two pieces together. But if I find that a whole string of spot welds came apart, then I might look at some welding before seam-sealing it. But apart from that, I'm optimistic at this point that I can solve the leakage effectively with seam sealer. It won't completely stop the rust, but there's plenty of other rust on this vehicle that may need some major fab work someday. I like the idea of getting some POR or something in there first though.

On a hot start, fuel related problem. I have new fuel pump, heat shields, fuel lines and tank. Thought I had all fuel delivery problems solved. Car was idling outside coffee shop quit would not restart. Let it cool off put 2 gal fresh fuel in ( thought fuel gauge was wrong} restarted. Put new electric fuel pump in no more problems. Also around this time I switched to a dry element air filter so I don't know for sure. Old mech. pump still on block, need to make block off plate. This car makes me so nervous when I drive it, its not funny.

I spent 13 years tracking down the very first Hilborn unit made for a slant and found it sitting on a garage floor along with 2 old SCCA race engines and a pile of other parts including a Joe Hunt mag. One of the engines was the same one that was in a 65 Alfa that was run at SIR in Seattle, my dad was on the team that ran it. One of the guys on my dads team knew one of the guys on the Dragmaster team, they did some tradeing and ended up with the Hilborn unit. After talking to Carol at Hilborn it turns out that this is actually their prototype and was originally sold to Keith Black in 1966 when he was building a slant powered hydroplane. They built 12 injection units and sold them from 1968 to 1972. This one looks and mounts nothing like the other 11 units sold. The production units bolt to the head just like a stock intake where as this one needs an adapter. Plans are to eventually clone the Dragmaster Dart Six rail and shoot for the mid 9's on alcohol. I think I have also tracked down the original engine from the rail in St. George, UT where it was used for land speed racing by Wilford Day and later he turned it into a table in his livingroom. Im working on contacting his relatives.

The goal is to not remove too much of the paint or rust patina.

Our school had a trunk or treat outing yesterday afternoon, I am thinking over a thousand kids of all ages. The weather was great as were all the children. My Granddaughter Adele is on my lap

about a year ago, I inherited another basket case, this time in the form of a '98 Subaru Outback with a blown head gasket & a lot of original rubber that was rotting. I put a lot of work into that car, and now it can be driven anywhere comfortably. But what I learned about that compact design is that working on that stuffed engine compartment can only be done if ya imagine ya are peeling an onion, cuz that's purty much how most everything has to be worked on: by removing items in a sequence to gain access. I didn't think it was possible, but the heads on that Subaru can be removed with the engine in the car...it can be done only after certain items are removed, and then the heads can only be removed from the car in a certain way (a lot of salty language sorta helps). I have removed the starters from the '48 & '49 more than once, and the '48 has the slot cut into the bolt heads to speed things up. I scoffed at the idea, but removing the floorboards is the easiest & fastest way to pull the starter. I think the last time I did this, it took about 5 minutes to pull the floorboards, then less than 10 minutes to pull the starter out from inside the cab. Of course I'm kindofa contortionist, so I can wiggle in & out of the cab floor fairly quickly. I don't know if this would help with a modified master cylinder setup, but floorboard removal for service is one of the most helpful things I have learned from this forum

FYI, I have a pair of never used NOS coils for a 56 Plymouth with a 6 if anyone is interested. I have no idea on application crossovers.