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martybose last won the day on January 26 2015

martybose had the most liked content!


About martybose

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!
  • Birthday 08/14/1946

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  • My Project Cars
    my 47 Business Coupe, now sold


  • Location
    Across the bay from San Francisco
  • Interests
    my old car, and SCCA race cars

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  1. Also be aware that a Mopar R10 is a very different animal than any other R10. Most of the internals interchange, but the Mopar R10 uses a unique electric shift mechanism. The guy that rebuilt mine did a great job with gears and whatever, but left a itty bitty little plunger out that eliminated any possibility of actually shifting until another member of this forum clued me in and sent a photo of the missing part. You've been warned! Marty
  2. It works better if it is spelled right. http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/ I used one of his 6V alternators way back when I first started playing with my Plymouth. Marty
  3. I haven't got my manuals handy, but it definitely takes an oil as opposed to a grease. Marty
  4. Have you tried to take apart the oil pressure regulator? It is far more likely that it is stuck due to old oil shellac forming than it is to actually need a different spring. You should be able to unscrew it at the left side center of the block. Marty
  5. When I had my battery cables made I specified a 00 lug that went to a starter mounting bolt, and a pair of size 2 jumpers that went to a bolt on the frame and another bolt on the body. Guaranteed to have ground paths! Marty
  6. Almost all of the available kits use the stock hub, I think that ECI is the only one that replaces the hub with a new aluminum one. Marty
  7. Amusing to see this thread come back to life 12 years after I started it. I'm not going to try to justify it, but I eventually backed the initial timing down to about 4 degrees with the vacuum connection to manifold vacuum. It was that way for several years with no issues. Marty
  8. When mine threw a blade it sliced through both the passenger side fender and the hood. I was amazed at how much damage it caused. Marty
  9. I installed an ECI front disk kit in my 47. I was a little disappointed that I had to do some additional work on the caliper adapter bracket to clear an interference issue, and I was surprised that installing it widened the front track enough that it was worth my while to try a different offset front wheel. But overall it was a nicely designed kit that substantially improved braking force. Marty
  10. It took a while, but I found the GPS system that drives a mechanical speedometer. It probably isn't cheap (no price listed), but it certainly solves this problem. It's called the SPEEDBOX, it's sold by Speedhut on their website http://www.speedhut.com Marty
  11. They're usually advertised in the hotrod magazines, like Car Craft or Popular Hotrodding. Unfortunately I just threw out all of last months issues, so I can't give you a direct reference. Marty
  12. You can get a GPS speedometer setup that drives the OEM gauge ........ Marty
  13. I'd start with putting a GPS app on your smart phone, getting the car up to a GPS-indicated 60 MPH, and note what the speedo is displaying. THEN go to a speedo shop, give them the info, and have them fix it. They can easily determine whether a speedometer gear would fix it or whether a gearbox for the speedo cable is needed. Marty
  14. All of the above, and probably more. I suspect crankshaft and block strength would keep you from going too far with supercharging them. Marty
  15. A way different setup with a top of the line linkage on a set of Carter-Webers on my old car. Used all pillow block bearings and stainless shafts and fittings, cost way to much (over $400) but was fun to build. Marty
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