Rusto Paint Spray Test

[55 Fargo]

Hi, did a test run using Rusto Enamel Elcheapo Gloss Black Paint, reduced with 25 % medium acrylic enamel reducer, shot the paint with a cheap Harbourfreight style gravity feed HVLP spraygun.

The results are great, there were no runs, no fisheyes, and very minimal orange peel.

I did no prep on this old 48 Chrysler hood that has been in yard for years, it is rough, I scuffed it up, blew the dust off with air, then sprayed 3 coats wet-on-wet.

This paint is super glossy, is as smooth as silk to the touch, my pics do not do it justice at all and yes my eyes are still good.

It took about 10 hours to dry, as it is really humid here, and the base paint is oil based rust enamel.

With the proper prepped surface, and with also adding DOI wetlook enamel hardner, this paint could come off very well, and cheap too boot, for guys like me on a shoe string budget.

Black is not the easiest color to test with as it picks up every imperfection and flaw. Surprisingly, there was very little dust in the paint, while it dried on a sheet on the garage floor.............Fred

[buds truck]

Looks pretty good in the picture.

All of this talk about using Rustoleum paint to paint cars and no one has ask one important question that I know of. That is. Has anyone checked to see if it's UV resistant? If not' date=' the paint will fade in about a year or so, maybe less.

Would be interesting to see a paint job that has weathered for a couple of years or more.

I did check on that with the people at True Value and was told their XO Rust Paint was not UV resistant. I did not check with the store, I checked with the people at their plant. I did that when I painted my floors in my coupe. Of course that is covered with carpet so it doesn't matter. I did paint the cross support for the radiator with XO paint too. That paint still looks good, but it has lost just a little of it's gloss since I did it back in 1999.

Just food for thought here.[/quote']

that was my first thought too. it can look tremendous the first year and be chalky after that. I bought a trailer from harbor freight and the glossy red paint turned chalky in 3 months. Why not try setting the hood outside and let it run the test of time. Hopefully it passes. Bud :D

[PatS....]

A friend of mine sprayed his '62 Chevy Biscayne with Tremclad rust paint several years ago. White roof and light blue body similar to original.

The paint did oxidize fairly quickly with a chalky film, but a coat of turtle wax brought it back to like new. The more coats of wax, the longer it took to oxidize.

The paint job stayed presentable for the 10+ years he owned the car which was in the early 80's to mid 90's.

[55 Fargo]

Looks pretty good in the picture.

All of this talk about using Rustoleum paint to paint cars and no one has ask one important question that I know of. That is. Has anyone checked to see if it's UV resistant? If not' date=' the paint will fade in about a year or so, maybe less.

Would be interesting to see a paint job that has weathered for a couple of years or more.

I did check on that with the people at True Value and was told their XO Rust Paint was not UV resistant. I did not check with the store, I checked with the people at their plant. I did that when I painted my floors in my coupe. Of course that is covered with carpet so it doesn't matter. I did paint the cross support for the radiator with XO paint too. That paint still looks good, but it has lost just a little of it's gloss since I did it back in 1999.

Just food for thought here.[/quote']

The guy "69chargeryeeha Martin", has had his beetle painted with Tremclad (Canadas Rustoleum), since 1999, no fading whatsoever, but it does get the buff polish and wax every spring and fall, and the car is in the garage when not in use.

[55 Fargo]

that was my first thought too. it can look tremendous the first year and be chalky after that. I bought a trailer from harbor freight and the glossy red paint turned chalky in 3 months. Why not try setting the hood outside and let it run the test of time. Hopefully it passes. Bud :D

Again, the one who started the roller paint job craze, has had one of his cars a 1969 Beetle, painted with Tremclad Rust Paint since 1999, with no fading whatsoever, the car is loked after , and is inthe garage when not in use.

No doubt in the California/Arizona/Texas sun, these paint jobs would fade, but so would a cheap auto acyrlic enamel paint, and the auto paint would fad first..........Fred

[55 Fargo]

A friend of mine sprayed his '62 Chevy Biscayne with Tremclad rust paint several years ago. White roof and light blue body similar to original.

The paint did oxidize fairly quickly with a chalky film, but a coat of turtle wax brought it back to like new. The more coats of wax, the longer it took to oxidize.

The paint job stayed presentable for the 10+ years he owned the car which was in the early 80's to mid 90's.

Tremclad is not only made different now, it has more uv protection in it, as well it is more fade resistant.

The paint I am currently using is Home Hardware Rust Coat, it is a Urethane Enhanced Alkyd Hi-gloss enamel, and when I intorduce the wet-look hardner made by Evercoat, it should help a lot with fading in the sun, and my car will not be sitting out in the sun all day long anyway..........Fred

[JerseyHarold]

Might be a cost effective way to make a less expensive paint last longer. Anyone have info on this sort of thing?

[NatesSedan]

I have always read that mixing unless designed to be mixed was a bad idea. I would be interested as well.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Fred..for what it is worth, the alkyld paint catalyzer should not be mixed with the acrylic enamel..IMHO..be sure the alkyld paint does indeed have a hardner of its own...at least it is different is the system I use for their alkyld paint...this is not the most common paints today except in hardware store shelves..the alkylds have very heavy pigments..granted the coverage is fantastic..the overall durance is good but at the sacrafice of shine..there is lots of maintenance in these paints..they chalk and chalk often if left to the enviroment...I have shot the paint in question from our local hardware store..safety orange..and very recenly might I add..not impressed and does not compare with acrylic enamel. If if is cut with urethane and IF that be the carrier to their alkyd base pigments..then suggest if playing with generic hardeners..do use those designed to work with uerthane...I am not sure I would risk a topoat to uncharter waters..I believe test panels with a couple different product then left to the element a bit may prove to ultimate test...in the past before BC/CC lots of shops would do spot repair with the alkyld paint over acrylic as it blend real good when buffed.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Norm..I can assure that Rustoleum enamel is compatable with acrylic hardner and assure even further that when it come to block sanding the final painted surface..it is ever bit as durable as automotive finish..and gloss and hardness..man that is the function of the catalyzer..not the paint.. .I like to never got the slight overspray off prior to top-coating my fenders....I have used this catalyzer process for over 16 years...now mind you I do not and probably will never use Rustoleum for top-coat..I do however use it for under hood and inner fender panels, inside of the fenders themselves and items such as radiator supports and frame metal and so on...as for other Rustoleum products..I have, and still use as so do many other people who paint cars daily, and some high end restoration shops..use Rustoleum rusty metal primer..if applied proper..let dry through and through..it is a truely remarkable primer that is easy to work..compatability...can't say but so far I have some vehicles out there that have endured with the top coat still on top the Rustoleum primer..of course it has only been 23 years..still in the testing phase...I know I am not by any means a body shop or daily sprayer of cars..but I will put the 25+ vehicles I have finished as examples..what's in your stable you have painted? err yourself that is..

[Plymouthy Adams]

this from a guy who uses rattle cans...I rest my case...the manufactuers who sell this have wasted their time when they made the catalyzer and market it as a hardener..you are such a naysayer...gonna dub you Walking Eagle...

[Normspeed]

Uses rattle cans????!! Ban him!

[Plymouthy Adams]

Norm..no matter the brand name, the paint distributors MUST sell their paint and catalyzer (hardner) seperate..these items if mixed at the factory would harden the paint before it got to the stores much less the buyer trying to use the product..about the only brand of paint that does dry rock hard that comes to mind is POR 15 and let me tell you...its chemical reaction to humidity when opened will also trigger the hardening process..it can however about be virtually halted if put in a freezer..(I personally know that 2 month is doable)...a true catalized paint will set up in the freezer when mixed. It will gel in just a coupe days..(virtually use after 24 hours)..For off the counter hardware store paint..some product are very nice...google the Rustoleum website and you will see and be amazed at the products they offer even automotive fleet colors and get this, metallics..however on one thing I do agree with you..not all paints are equal and not all paints can be enhanced...and paints lines should not be inter-mixed..can get some funky results that way..wrinkle finish is a definite mix match process that was accidentially stumbled up and found its own nitch in the market. However when it comes to acrylic enamels, the base formula does make the hardner pretty much compatable and the Evercoat Classic Wet-Look is a generic add to any acrylic enamel and works most excellent. Again, the hardners are the exact chemical that you spoke of that companies use..only they must be mixed at thime you shoot it..else the paint will not have the durability and UV protection a hardened paint offer. Over the years I have used about every brand of paint offered for sale to the public..and some not available to the public...I have my favorites..we all do..Lots of guys here are trying to get their cars up and running and looking good and are on a shoestring budget..most are still raising familes and thus don't have the luxury of a few spare bucks here and there to throw to a shop. It is for these guys who do ask by the way, that I share my experience of what is compatable..I am sure some of them appreciate it...if not, then I have tried my best to benefit the forum at large...though some of the techniques and ideas here on the forum would never be the route I would go...you got to think of what may work for them and again....doing it yourself in this hobby is everything...a little possitive support often goes a long way.

[Plymouthy Adams]

but it is obvious that the your line is the sand does not represent all individuals..that is all...its obvious that they are going to do it themselves..help them out..like you said in your earlier post..if you can't say anytthing good..don't say anthing at all...more to this hobby and forum than riding shotgun on the keyboard...

and to be sure if you were able to read you will see that it is MOST hazardous when the catalyst is mixed in the paint...and yes the MSDS does state that..and ingredients are listed just the mixing ratio is closer to being proprietory....Norm...you need to get out more often..granted the cave painting you are used to looking out are not subjected to UV...I bet the highlight of your day is watching the ice melt in your ice tea....sorry guy..but cheer up a bit...

[buds truck]

The Idea Is Getting Both Sides Of The Story, After Reading This Set Of Posts I Must Say I Am Extremely Dissapointed In The "my Way Or The Highway" Attitudes Of Some. It Is A Good Thing To Have Both Sides Of The Story So The People On This Forum Can Make An Educated Decision. Kinda Disappointed In Some Of You.....

[randroid]

Tim & Norm,

DON'T MAKE ME STOP THIS CAR!

-Randy

[buds truck]

Tim & Norm,

DON'T MAKE ME STOP THIS CAR!

-Randy

THANKS, RANDY, THAT MADE ME LAUGH OUT LOUD. BUD :D

[55 Fargo]

Tim & Norm,

DON'T MAKE ME STOP THIS CAR!

-Randy

I'll get me a nice red willow switch from the side of the road, and you boys will get good tannin, you hear.

[55 Fargo]

Okay, I have no axes to grind, nobody to convince one way or another, just wanted to simply share something with you guys I am currently testing,"Spraying Rust Enamel".

I am no expert, with next to no experience in automotive painting, but I am the type that is willing to learn, to test, to try and to succeed hopefully.

There is only one thing that stops a lot of folks from doing things, that mayor may not be successful, that is "Contempt Prior To Investigation", that makes me try and do nothing new, in areas I have not been before.

I know that Rust Enaeml is not as good as High Quality Auto Paint, but being on a limited budget, and wanting to learn to do things myself, I am will to try unorthodox approaches.

I see value in all of the comments, I am intersted in experienced facts, not opinions or speculation. In other words, "TELL ME LIKE IT IS", not what you may want to believe it is.

One school of thought would have us all on "straight pepper diet. and one would offer us no flavor for our fare". So different strokes for different folks.

The bottom line is this, if I go ahead and paint my car with rust enamel, and it doesn't work out, I can sand it down, and have Maaco or myself shoot on auto paint, and if it works out okay, all the better, I will be a happy man, even if the car has a 20 foot paint job on her, trust me, the bodywork and prep will make or break this paint job, more that my paint..............Fred

[55 Fargo]

Another reason for using Automotive paint instead of something like Rustoleum is the surface hardness of the paint. Not so much because one would scratch or chip easier but because of just plain dirt.

If you paint two items' date=' one with a gloss hard surface paint and the other with a soft surface gloss paint, the soft surface paint appearance will deteriorate faster than the hard surface. That's simply because the rain will wash the dirt off the hard surface painted item better than it will on the soft surface gloss paint. So........again, the soft surface paint requires more maintenance than the hard surface paint to keep the gloss up to par.[/quote']

Norm,

the rust primer I used on my car reduced with mediem speed enamel reducer, is as hard as rock, does not scratch easily, does not chip easily, as you know I live on a gravel road, this rust primer is tough hard finish.

I would think my current test piece once fully cured will also be as hard as rock, not a soft surface at all, but we shall see..........Fred

[55 Fargo]

Hi all, just did a sanding test on this test piece, with 240 grit paper, this piece was painted only 3 days ago. The piece/paint sands no problem, in only a few days, it is also getting nice an cured, my primered trunk lid, 5 days ago with rust primer and reducer, is as hard as rock already, could not nick it with my finger nail jammed into it. My 47 was primered a year and a half ago, it has been washed many times, rained on a bit, and not one bit of oxixization,or rust, it is also cured to a rockhard state, this rust primer has a sealing quality to it, lacquer based primered would be all rusty by now..........Fred

[Plymouthy Adams]

Tim & Norm,

DON'T MAKE ME STOP THIS CAR!

-Randy

lol..that is good...yes you can stop the car if you can answer the one question...are we there yet?

[Normspeed]

Hey Norm, I take it back, I don't really want to ban you...

[greg g]

I was purusing the paint isle at Tractor Supply the other day, they sell a pint or so ca of Hardener for about 8 bucks. I believe it is necessary to use a hardener for a good "permanent" job of car painting.

[55 Fargo]

Hi all, mixed up a batch of gloss black rust alkyd enamel high gloss, mixed it with 25 % medium spped reducer, and 1/8 part Evercoat DOI Wet Look Acrlyic Enamel Hardener Catalyst.

These autobody products mixed just fine with alkyd rust enamel, sprayed on nice, shot on 3 coats wet-on-wet, little bit of orange peel, I suspected my paint was too thick (old paint in can), should have reduced the paint more.

I am also using an HVLP gravity gun with a 1.4 tip, so maybe that might be a problem, more than likely it is the green operator that is to blame.

So there we have it, hardware store rust enamel can be reduced with autobody enamel reducer and mixed with hardener both products are intended for acrylic enamel, but is working with alkyd enamel.

I should be able to paint my car with this stuff, but will need to tweak my paint mixing and get a bit more experience with the paint gun, but it is definately a possibility. I would be using a medium blue, my test have been with blcak, black is a tougher color to work with..........Fred