Jims50chrysler Posted July 25, 2008 Report Posted July 25, 2008 Has anyone been able to successfully do bodywork on there fenders while they were off the car? How did you support them so the were not flopping all over the place? Or is it best to do the bodywork on the car and remove them for paint? Jim Quote
Allan Faust Posted July 25, 2008 Report Posted July 25, 2008 I'm working on mine when I have time, and using a sawhorse to hold the panel as I work..... Allan Quote
claybill Posted July 26, 2008 Report Posted July 26, 2008 removing paint is one thing...but i was told by a body man that hammering and pounding and fixing a fender can CHANGE THE CONTOUR in the attaching area back again to the body.. bill Quote
steveplym Posted July 26, 2008 Report Posted July 26, 2008 Like Allan I'm working on mine now too. They are on saw horses. These fenders sure took a lot of abuse. Quote
Jims50chrysler Posted July 26, 2008 Author Report Posted July 26, 2008 I had 2 low spots where someone....you could probably guess who, got the panel too hot when welding in a gas tank filler door and it shrunk the metal around the area. I have it bumped out pretty good it's kinda looking like a bruised apple at the moment. I have never had much to do with hammer and dolly work but I kinda like it. The bench I am working on is not the best I will try the sawhorse set up tomorrow. Thanks. Jim Quote
Allan Faust Posted July 26, 2008 Report Posted July 26, 2008 One of the best metalworking tools you can find is a good ol' tree stump.... take off the bark, and create the curves you want on different areas of the wood.... use it to keep your body lines straight... Allan Quote
Normspeed Posted July 26, 2008 Report Posted July 26, 2008 Allan, isn't it a lot of work carring the fenders and stuff out into the woods to work on them? Quote
1947PLEVY Posted July 26, 2008 Report Posted July 26, 2008 Morn All: I've had luck both ways, with them on and with them off. When they're off you have to be careful about where they mount back to the body. If it's just a dent or a ding in it. I'd just use a rubber mallet and dolly until almost where I want it then the little hammer. If having to use any bondo or filler, when you think you are done use a clean cotton rag (flat against your hand) and rub the area to see how good you have it. But really it's a matter of how much work needs to be done on the metal and how much time you want to put in it. Everyone Take Care and God Bless...Sure could use a p-15 46-48 clock don't have to work just to fill in the hole. John Ennis aka 47PLEVY Don's Northern Neighbor:confused: Quote
Allan Faust Posted July 26, 2008 Report Posted July 26, 2008 Norm.... not much work at all, specially considering that I am in the woods..... Allan Quote
Don Coatney Posted July 26, 2008 Report Posted July 26, 2008 Norm.... not much work at all, specially considering that I am in the woods..... Allan Allan; As you are in the woods perhaps you can find and photograph for Greg G a sample of bear sign so we can put his question to rest. Quote
greg g Posted July 26, 2008 Report Posted July 26, 2008 Well Ive been whacking on my Studebaker stuff with them off the car. Unless you are working the edges where the fender bolts on, there isn't too much chance of missaligning it a rgreat deal. If you are concerned you ca mock it for fit as you proceed. You can always bolt it back on to do the finishing work. Quote
Allan Faust Posted July 26, 2008 Report Posted July 26, 2008 I looked Don, but it seems they all went to NY state on vacation.... hmm... maybe.... Quote
james curl Posted July 26, 2008 Report Posted July 26, 2008 You can cut a peice of 1/2" or 5/8" plywood the length and height of the fender and then drill holes in the plywood to match the fender. Bolt the fender onto the plywood and do your bodywork with the fender held rigid. If you want to be fancy you could cut the plywood to the shape of the inside of the fender and mount on the inside of the fender. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 26, 2008 Report Posted July 26, 2008 I have two 4 foot by 8 foot roll around tables that are made out of 1" angle iron and very well braced..(have worked 750 I-beams on them single table) I usually use the body style vice grips with the swivel pads on them to clamp my fender to the side of the table..the clamps allow you to stand them any manner you wish...works very well and I always do my finish work on detacable fenders off the body...if you have serious "banging" to do, get it done prior to removal..you can always do a quick mock up anytime along the way.... Quote
Rodney Bullock Posted July 26, 2008 Report Posted July 26, 2008 I did my fender work with the dog house on a table. It was easy to do because the front clip is balanced. I did all the pounding while the fenders were attached to the grill. That way when you are ready to bolt it back on there is no problem Quote
Jims50chrysler Posted July 27, 2008 Author Report Posted July 27, 2008 Speaking of front fenders...how big of a deal is it to remove the whole front end? fenders,grill...etc. Jim Quote
greg g Posted July 27, 2008 Report Posted July 27, 2008 About a dozen bolts hold the sheet metal clip on. The bumper and brackets are seperate. Splash pan can be removed seperately or with the doghouse. Hood also eeds to come seperate. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted July 27, 2008 Report Posted July 27, 2008 Do I also need to remove the rocker panel trim? It looks like it is connected to the fender. Quote
steveplym Posted July 27, 2008 Report Posted July 27, 2008 Do I also need to remove the rocker panel trim? It looks like it is connected to the fender. Rocker trim is held on with one attaching point on each fender. Probably would be best to just remove it so you can avoid damaging it when removing the clip. You can just get away with unbolting the trim from the front fenders only without removing the entire trim piece. Quote
wilmot andy Posted July 27, 2008 Report Posted July 27, 2008 I have a fender sitting on sawhorses right now, making a patche panel for them. Exept I ran out of sheilding gas. I was told to try a bowling ball as a 'dolly' for large pieces, and it works great. Quote
Don Coatney Posted July 27, 2008 Report Posted July 27, 2008 I was told to try a bowling ball as a 'dolly' for large pieces, and it works great. How fast do you roll the ball and how accurate is your aim:confused: If you hit outside the pocket I would think one could do more harm than good. Did you get a reduced rate to rent the lane? Did the ball return automatically or did you have to go get it? How many strikes did it take to fix it? Did you practice on a spare fender first? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 27, 2008 Report Posted July 27, 2008 Don..you left out the question concerning what shoes to wear... Quote
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