Guest El Rust box Posted March 1, 2008 Report Posted March 1, 2008 Who is still running the original single pot master cylinder on their trucks? Im in the middle of re-doing my brakes, and given some long hard thoughts to changing to a double pot system. Im having a hard time finding one that will work though. Am i missing something? I really want to know who's still got a single, and whos upgraded, and what may work. I think dodge changed to double in around 65 or so, but the mounting is different. Am i really asking for trouble if i stay with the same system? I'd love to hear what you've got to say. (Barry, the trucks coming along awesome, thanks for such a great deal). Quote
Young Ed Posted March 1, 2008 Report Posted March 1, 2008 I've 3K miles on my truck using the stock MC. Replace every inch of steel line and rubber line and there is no reason for it to not work. Quote
H Suhling Posted March 1, 2008 Report Posted March 1, 2008 I have about six thousand on my truck combined before and after restoration with no problems. I did replace MC, all steel and rubber lines, and all wheel cylinders when I redid the truck. Harvey Quote
grey beard Posted March 1, 2008 Report Posted March 1, 2008 I also have renewed my entire system with a stock master cylinder. I'd like to switdh to a double, like you, but have found nothing that will fit in the small space we have available between steering box ane corss member. It's even a tight fit for the stock unit. This has been a common query over the past years on this forum. Several have adapted a dual type MS that required moving the (gulp) steering box forward 5/8-inch to shoe-horn it in. I'm willing to bet that if some dedicated individual would stand at a parts counter long enough to find it, there is a stock double MS out there that would fit, if the information were only knowable to us. Any parts men on this forum? Sure would be nice info to have, and I'll bet about one hundred of us would do the swap if we only knew what it was that fit that small, nasty spot. Why, it's enough to make a man think of hanging one on the firewall, where you could reach and service it. Sorta' wish I'd done that originally. Probably would be cheaper, too, in the long run - AND much safer, IMHO:) Quote
oldmopar Posted March 1, 2008 Report Posted March 1, 2008 Has anyone tried Napa #36283 I see Charlie Akers aka Olddaddy has this information on his web site. I was going to try the mc on a 46 wd I will be working on this but this looks like it should work for the Pilot-House trucks. Ed http://rustyhope.com/page8.html Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 1, 2008 Report Posted March 1, 2008 Here is a picture of a dual pot MC in a truck. I had this picture in my files but I do not have any additional information on this setup. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted March 1, 2008 Report Posted March 1, 2008 That doesn't look like a Pilot-House setup, Don. I think the one Charlie Ackers used will only fit if the steering box is moved forward slightly. Merle Quote
Guest Kuster13 Posted March 2, 2008 Report Posted March 2, 2008 as most might like but I have been working on trying different setup's for my M\C. I have spent months looking online at every possible m\c. I recently searched down a bracket and linkage for a 57' Dodge 1 ton were the master faces rearward and is under the floor. I also have the bellhousing and cross member. The problem I found with this was that the bellhousing is 1 inch deeper than stock which means I have to use the 57' tranny which means the crossmember behind the tranny would have to be moved back and the gas tank...you get the idea. Another suggestion that was given to me was to make a bracket that would tilt the m\c slightly upward to clear the steering box. I looked at this possibility and it would need to be at least 10 degrees and the reservoir would have to be remote and the push rod angle would change and it's definitely a challenge I'm not done yet and maybe next week I might have a possible solution. I'll keep you posted. Tom Quote
Guest Kuster13 Posted March 2, 2008 Report Posted March 2, 2008 I know the single pot master is 1 .25 bore but if one replaces with a dual master cylinder what should the bore size be? Any suggestions? Tom Quote
grey beard Posted March 4, 2008 Report Posted March 4, 2008 Based on what I know about hydraulics - and a little common sense, - any master cylinder of the original diameter OR larger should work just fine. If you used a laeger bore master cylinder, your pedal would just travel less distance to get the wheel cylinders actuated. IMHO:) Quote
wallytoo Posted March 4, 2008 Report Posted March 4, 2008 Based on what I know about hydraulics - and a little common sense, - any master cylinder of the original diameter OR larger should work just fine. If you used a laeger bore master cylinder, your pedal would just travel less distance to get the wheel cylinders actuated. IMHO:) i agree, but i'd also be careful of going too big. seems there's probably an upper limit for the size of the master bore. otherwise, i'd anticipate issues with blowing out the wheel cylinder with the same pedal effort of the original mc bore. i don't know what that upper size would be, though. however, if the new mc bore was the same as the old one, that would be ok. Quote
woodscavenger Posted October 24, 2008 Report Posted October 24, 2008 Lets revive this a little. I want a dual MC. NAPA online now has a section where you can look through the parts by category and see the images of the parts. I have been scanning through them and have found several that I need to chack for fit. There are some of the dual MC that have a tall first resevior and a short second one which might fit under the steering column. Unfortunately no dimensions are given other than the fitting type. I'll bet with some work we could figure it out. There has to be one that works. Quote
Dennis_MN Posted October 24, 2008 Report Posted October 24, 2008 I see that this thread is way old but the original question is "who has stock Master Cylinder" I converted over to front disk brakes last May and used the original MC and did not add anything else like balance valves. Brakes work great without upgrading the master cylinder. Whats the deal, if it ain't broke...... keep fixing it til it is? Dennis Quote
Guest Kuster13 Posted October 24, 2008 Report Posted October 24, 2008 I'm not finished with it yet but the dual master is installed and seems to function properly. I have yet to run new steel lines to test the system out. The bracket is designed to hold the M/C and a plate mated to the brake pedal allows the push rod to be moved below the pivot point and change the direction of travel. Access can be made through the trans cover. Quote
woodscavenger Posted October 24, 2008 Report Posted October 24, 2008 Do you have any pics of the pedal modifications? Quote
Guest Kuster13 Posted October 25, 2008 Report Posted October 25, 2008 Sorry the photo's I have right now are not that great. I mated some 1/4 inch bar stock to the outboard side of the brake pedal by grinding the side flat. To make up for the difference with the added 1/4" I shaved alittle off the centering bushing, the pedal and the steady brace. The brake pedal sits about a 1/4" closer to the center of the truck so the floor plate needs a slight trim. Tom Quote
old woolie Posted October 25, 2008 Report Posted October 25, 2008 The original system works just fine if it is completly rebuilt. If you are driving around with an original one port system and questionable wheel cylinders and/or lines,then you are looking for trouble. Quote
Paul Beard Posted October 25, 2008 Report Posted October 25, 2008 I have taken measurements and there is only 7 1/2" between the steering gear box and the cross member. Maybe someone could find a M/C that is only &7 1/4 or 7 3/8 then maybe it would work. By the way that measurement is on "53" B4B. Quote
carl b51 Posted October 25, 2008 Report Posted October 25, 2008 On my B3B I have upgraded my wheel cylinders, rubber lines but kept the old master cylinder it work very well. Carl Quote
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