Dual Heaters

[Jim Yergin]

Even though I don't have my car on the road yet, being optimistc that this will be the year that that happens, I am looking at some other things I want to do to the car.

Over the years I have collected parts for a dual heater set-up in my '41 P12. I have a 53 heater and a 54 heater, the kick panel ducts, the fresh air duct assembly as well as the dual heater control valve and the hard line heater lines under the hood. What I don't have is the control lever for the inside fresh air door. I appear to have the pivot linkage and spring on that door but no lever. I have looked at the parts diagram BobT-47P15 posted on April 20, 2007 and the pictures Rockwood posted on May 25, 2007 but I am still not clear how the rod attaches to the support under the dash. Can anyone supply a clear picture or diagram of it? Also the dimensions of the rod and the bracket it attaches to? It seems like I should be able to fabricate that rod. Also, is the knob on this second lever the same as the one on the lever for the regular outside cowl door?

Thanks.

Jim Yergin

[Byronb3b]

I just removed the whole setup from a parts car,will take a pic for you, I may need your email address to send, have not got into the posting pic thing on this site. send a pm Byron

[Norm's Coupe]

Jim,

I don't have any pictures better than the one BobT posted from the parts book. However, the air for the fresh air vents are controlled by the cowl lever. With the dual heater system there are two levers under the dash. One to open the cowl and the other one is to open the fresh air ducts under the dash and the kick panel ducts at the same time. If you close the second handle and just open the outside cowl vent the air only goes to through the kick panels. So, you need the second cowl vent lever for the fresh air system to work correctly.

That said, now for the heater going through the duct. You preset the vents in the heater where the heat comes out so that it will supply air/heat to the defrosters and to the vents. Then when you pull out the heat control knob for the valve on the engine it lets the heat go through and out the vents. Push it back in and the heat stops because you are not getting the hot water from the engine.

Hope that helps you a little. Mine is the original setup on my 48 except for the valve on the engine, so I'm guessing yours work the same way.

[BobT-47P15]

My car had two heaters (the left one did not match the right one) when I

got it. But it did not have the vents on the kick panels. Being a fairly

simple person, and given the fact I probably wouldn't drive the car much in

very cold weather, I got rid of both heaters and found an original style for

the right side only.

Just recently bought a complete dash including heater, which turned out

to have a better blower motor than the one I've had for years.....so I

swapped that - blows better now.

You can see a hose on the right.....that goes to the defroster vents. I need

better hoses (have kind of used a mish-mash of types), but they do get the

air to the windshield.

The lower flap on the right, with the tag on it, opens a bit to direct air into

the car. Mainly goes towards your feet, however. Then, on the right,

not visible, is a lever to control a door for directing warm air - one setting

to defrosters only, one to both defrost and floor, and the other to floor

only. Should be activated by a knob below the dash, but as I don't

have one, I simply reach beside the heater and set the thing for whatever

I want.

For turning the hot engine water on and off, I simply have the manual

valve operated by hand.....not the more convenient one run by a

cable. Lets just say "it works for me".

[55 Fargo]

I dunno Bob, that painted throttle linkage,chrome heads nuts, looks pretty fancy schmancy to me, not what a real simple man would do........Fred

[BobT-47P15]

Fred.....I guess you could say it was "simple" for me to do.....just pop on a

few acorn covers, paint the linkage....... I could have buffed it to a

chrome like appearance using Mother's Mag Wheel Polish, but the linkage

was already in place. So I used gold paint rather than silver to make it

a bit different. Just barely visible at lower left of the pic above is the coil

or on the right in this pic.....I

wrapped the coil bracket with chrome tape to spiff it up. I suppose all

this stuff sorta comes under "cheap tricks", but I like to see a clean and

spiffy engine.

I suspect the Plymouth club would frown upon such decorations, but I

say to each his own.....

[Young Ed]

Bob your nonP15 engine would immediately get you 0 out of 10 points for the engine category and prohibit you from anything better then a 2nd place trophy.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Here is a poor picture of the fresh air lever and the regular vent handle on a 46 Chrysler.

[55 Fargo]

Bob , you are are creative, that is why you are a musician also, an artistic type.

Maybe your points would go down in a show, but who cares, you like it, and it looks good, you should extra points when things look good or better..........Fred

[Young Ed]

Bob dont think I was bashing your car. My post was meant just as an FYI. Still hoping for a similar color for my coupe

[Dodgeb4ya]

Jim, here are a couple more pictures of fresh air linkage on/off of a 1946 chrysler.

Bob

[Jim Yergin]

Bob,

Thank you very much. Those pictures are just what I needed. Could you provde me with the measurements of the flat handle piece (length, width, thickness, etc.) as well as the length of each leg of the 90' round rod piece and the diameter of the rod? It would also help to know where the two pivot holes (pivot on the end at the support pivot and the place where the round rod attaches) are located on the flat handle piece.

Jim Yergin

[Young Ed]

Jim if you can wait til spring I should have an extra of that piece I could send. As soon as car season starts up again I plan to buy an extra dual heater setup from a rodder in the area. He reads this board occasionaly but doesnt post much.

[BobT-47P15]

Fred,,,,,,they'd probably deduct a couple more points for these.....

[55 Fargo]

Bob,I think those are a great idea, when i went for a short drive the other day, I noticed I got a little snow up in that rear fender area, these flaps would keep gravel and dirt out of there too.......Fred

[BobT-47P15]

Just keep watching ebay....they have the older style mudflaps along.

Son-in-law got me these for Christmas.... Seller said he found them

down inside between two walls in an old filling station he was

demolishing. Still in original box.

[Niel Hoback]

We used to call those "Tennessee air brakes". Anybody else ever heard that?

[Jim Yergin]

Ed,

Waiting until spring even in Minnesota as opposed to here in Virginia is no problem for me. It would be great if you have an extra.

Thanks.

Jim

[Young Ed]

Spring is a relative term anyways. Quite possible I'll be pulling the motor out of a 54 R110 for rebuilding this weekend

[Normspeed]

BobT, your car is great. And the fact that it's no trailer queen makes it even better.

Neil, never heard 'em called Tennessee Air Brakes but I love it!

[Don Coatney]

We used to call those "Tennessee air brakes". Anybody else ever heard that?

OK Claymore;

Thems fightin words here in Tennessee:D

[Terry in Bozrah]

These are the direction that came with the heater that we picked up.

Let me know if they are of any help?

The link is the Image event. Copy and past the red X box, not sure how to post a link?

Terry

http://photos.imageevent.com/terryandlinda/pwheater/large/5%20Heater%20assembly.jpg

[Normspeed]

Hi Terry, good to see you back.

[Jim Yergin]

Terry,

Thank you very much for posting the instructions, I really appreciate it. Unfortunately they look like they are for the model 36 single heater and not for the dual heater set up I have.

Jim Yergin

[Terry in Bozrah]

Good to be back, had some health issues but now up and running again.

Hi Terry, good to see you back.