Terry in Bozrah

I would use a putty knife first and than use Oven cleaner. OK I said the same thing YEAH RIGHT but that stuff really cuts the grease and IF you don't watch out it'll take the paint. The wire wheel will just make a mess of your shirt, pants and face.

Haven't had time to pull the pin yet? lol Thanks guys:o for all your help again.

I printed out the instruction and will try it out this weekend. I have a old hardware store down the road that will hook me up with every I think I need to do this? I'll try a test run on a short piece and see what happens. Let's hope for the best? Thanks guys Terry

I would like to try that but a little nervise about doing it? Not to good a sodering? I don't want to screw up both gauges.......

Looking to Buy a good working Temperature Gauge for my 46 PW. Gauge also the same as 39-47 pilot-house trucks? I have second series temp Gauge to trade or $$? Thanks Terry

I knew Don would have it but couldn't find it. Thanks Fred:D Terry

Thanks Fred, is there another unit that bolts right to the block?

Been looking around for a picture for one of the PW boys. It's the filter that has two mounting hole and the in-let out-let right above each other? I think they are Al. or pot metal and were used on the 251(25") blocks? Anyone have a picture they can share? He has the wrong filter unit in the picture? Thanks Terry

Mike Have you done any Powder Coating? I wanted to try it to see how it worked. I've been meaning to post this as I forgot who asked when I did it to post results. This is it. This was a Eastwood product and done in my home shop. Every time I cleaned it and re-heated the block seamed to off gas more dirt(for a better word) and finally I said it was good as is, clean. It's been a few years now and I think the block had to be at 400 or 350 degrees before powder coating. I ended up hitting the first time than baking, than when that was qurred I hit it again with more powder. All on the same cook time. This is the side of the block as of last year. Before I painted it with HT paint. The POR-15 keeps the heat in the motor, not good. First try. Looked good!(2005) NOT http://photos.imageevent.com/terryandlinda/pwrebuild/large/20.jpg

I did this about 3-4 years ago. I heated the block up 3 times to off gas the casting and cleaned block each time. Then Powder Coated block 3 times for good coverage. Looked good first year, second year a little green showing around the edges. Last year removed as much PC as I could and used HT paint. Save your money and use a good High temp. paint. Terry

Hey Guys This was over on the Power Wagon site. If true, someone needs to restore this. Not mine Terry http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/1656757484.html

Norm Some great pictures of the trip and a beautify ride. You are truely blessed and sounds like you're having quite the adventure to remember. Hope you're using some Ulta Light tackle? Fun Fun Fun!!! TK

Here's one from the PW site. Alot of good ref parts for engine also. http://www.dodgepowerwagon.com/glovebox/vaughn.txt Terry

I use Oven Cleaner, just try it. I said the same thing 'Oven Cleaner, Right'!! I was surprized. I buy the cheap stuff at wallie world. Terry

Hey Don Let me ask you just a few question: 1. Did you replace the 60 year old brass fittings or did you clean and inspect them for cracks? 2. Did you use stock brake lines? No Stainless Steel, Al., Cuni or Nicu lines? Some fittings have different angles for seating to different material tubes? Are you using slotted box wrenches for a tight fit, makes a difference. Someone asked me why I went through my rebuild and didn't use Stainless Steel. My answer was 'The old steel brakes lines lasted 60 years, I'm 50 (in a few days) and don't think I will out last my new steel brake lines I put on'. Hope this helps, but others may have a better solution? Terry