Electronic ignition for 6V, positive ground cars

[BobT-47P15]

There was an article in the December 2006 issue of Cars & Parts magazine about installing a Pertronix electronic ignition in a 1955 Thunderbird, which is 6V, positive ground. All you do is replace the points with the ignitor unit and magnet sleeve on the shaft, then install their coil and high performance plug wires, and hook up the wiring. The original distributor is retained. They say the timing will probably have to be re-done afterwards. Sounds pretty simple. Anyone used this system? If so, what were the results?

[Rodney Bullock]

I think they converted that system to 12 volt by 1955, it would be great to do that however even the old studebaker are using petronics, it has to be coverted though.

[Brendan D25]

I am not sure about T-birds but the 55 Fords were 6 volts, maybe the car in the article was 12 volts:confused:

[Brad Lustig]

I'm pretty sure pertronix used to produce a 6v positive ground system. It can probably be found on some store shelves still but I looked a couple years back and couldn't find one anywhere.

[Guest Nile Limbaugh]

Ford went to 12V neg in 56. There have been several conversations about Pertronix on this forum, most with negative comments concerning the longevity of the units. I believe the part number for the 6V pos grd system is #1561P6, a unit still manufactured for industrial engines. I've found, in general, that the factory point system works fine if put back into like new condition, especialy for those of us who don't put that many miles on their cars.

[BobT-47P15]

They gave the part numbers in the article. Apparently they are available currently. The car in the article, a '55 T Bird, was volunteered by the owner for the conversion. It was 6V, pos ground. The conversion sounds good, but as someone just said, do we really need it for cars not driven very much? Don't know the cost of the parts used to make the change.

If anyone wants further information, I can refer back to the article to get it.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I have said this before and will say it again and this is just MHO but the Pertronix unit is not that reliable and the cost involved and the wait to relocate and find a replacement is just not dollar sensible in my book...a well tuned point and condensor set will do great..plus on the road, they can always be touched up for that limp back to the stable.

[Dennis Hemingway]

I have to go with what Tim said. I have had to bring 2 of my friends home on my trailer after the Pertronix unit quit working.

Dennis:mad:

[Lou Earle]

I have installed 2 on a model fords and they are not, in my opinion all that great. I notice absolutely on improvement and one crapped out. I you have a short with the key on - your out of commission.

Look at tit this way - points and condenser- what 12-15 bucks- last about

`10,000 miles ( and if your real chap you can re-file - but file cost 5 bucks!!)

condenser - God only know how long they last-originals- [probably around 50,000. And they can be changed by anyone - even me - with tools from tool box- 7/16 wrench screwdriver and pliers is about 30 minutes- oh yes need a thickness Gage-= a scrap of cereal box( Raisan Bran is the best- because that is all I have) top does just fine.

No on all my cars I will stay with the points.

Most of my A model friends have abandoned the Pertronix-

A bit of history

One man invented the system for A models and 10 years ago they were great- but bought out by big company and quality went to hell.'

Lou

[Brendan D25]

I have the Pertronix ignition in my 73 VW bug for three years now and haven't had any problems but I carry a set of points and condensor just in case.

[kevinanderson]

I've got a pertronix in my '69 Electra ragtop, 'bout 3 years now. No complaints here, but I too carry the old point set and tools. Is there a certain time frame or milage that they crap out at?

[BobT-47P15]

Welll, then, guess I will stick with the points system. Just bought new points, condensor and rotor the other day, maybe about $30 for all. Also a new voltage regulator just for the heck of it. About $35. Am looking for some new plug wires with the "L" ends for plugs....have not located any locally yet....just the straight ends but do not like the appearance. May have to use the type where you attach your own ends.

Any good source for plug wires?????

[Plymouthy Adams]

Got my L-head wires at Tractor Supply..they wee not exposed metal clamp..rubber booted 90 degree

[Merle Coggins]

Got mine at Farm & Fleet (similar to Tractor Supply) in the farm tractor parts area. As Tim stated, they have 90 deg ends with boots and are cut to length with terminals at the other end. The look and work great. It also allowed me to run them through the tubes on the sides of the coil bracket like the originals.

[BobT-47P15]

Thanks for the tips guys, will check with a tractor supply or two around here.

Would prefer the rubber boots to the exposed end.