drum puller

[Normspeed]

Anyone here tried this brand of puller? Looks like maybe a Chinese knockoff of the original type.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Have not had the need to use it but did get one of these at the last swap meet...NIB...could very well be the same tool. Price was 40.00

[48mirage]

Looks like the one I bought awhile back. It worked with not much effort.

[Normspeed]

I've been watching one on the bay. Starting bid was $45, now it's bid up to $56. Funny part, same seller has another with a buy it now of $52.

[Reg Evans]

I've pulled al lot of wheels with one just like that. The plastic box gave up but the puller is still working fine.

[captden29]

i have one i got off ebay, supposedly from a retired mechanic. do not know the brand, but it is well made and has done the job well even with heavy hammering. i would find it hard to trust anything of low quality with the sledge hammering i have had to use. dennis

[Norm's Coupe]

My puller looks just like the one Norm posted. I don't have a box for mine either. I bought mine from an old auto service shop going out of business because the owner was retiring about 9 or 10 years ago. He was selling everything in the shop like a rummage sale. Only paid $20 for it. It is old and it has the Craftsman logo on it. Works good and I have used a 4 pound hammer on it to pull a drum without a problem.

[bob westphal]

That one looks just like the one I've been using for over half a century except mine was made in USA. I use a 5lb hammer on mine. Should do the job well if the metal is half decent. I've found that a lot of Harbour Freight's tools work quite well for the occassional user. I have a number of them in my tool box.

[Reg Evans]

Lately I've been using my pneumatic impact gun with the puller.

It works great without all the heavy hammering.

[Norm's Coupe]

Lately I've been using my pneumatic impact gun with the puller.

It works great without all the heavy hammering.

Never tried that but will have to try and remember the next time I need to pull the rears.

[blueskies]

Looks about the same as my $45 no-name puller bough off of ebay.

Worked great for me.

Pete

[Uncle-Pekka]

Is there a dealer or net-shop offering that Chinese puller? (in the picture of the 1st message)

[busycoupe]

It looks like one I bought on EBay last summer for about $49. It worked great, but I had to clear plating and paint off of the threads before I could use it. Not having a tap and die that large, it took me over an hour with a wire brush on the post, then working it back and forth in the center piece to clear the threads. Once the threads were clear I popped the rear drums off in about a minute. I think a 1 1/4 inch socket fits the nut on the post. I used an air gun on it. Made short work of pulling the hubs.

[oldmopar]

JCW use to offer them in 2 versions. I would guess the still do.

[Normspeed]

Is there a dealer or net-shop offering that Chinese puller? (in the picture of the 1st message)

This is the ad, the seller is Kinetic Co.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=016&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=260202650059&rd=1

[Dodgefran]

I bought a cheepy from Whitney and it didn't come close to doing the job, so I bought a more expensive and heftier one, and it works great. It showed me that I can't beat quallity.

[Normspeed]

Yeah, I bought a small JCW puller. Worked ok once but the second round of brake work a leg broke. You also had to place a large ball bearing between the axle end and the puller bolt or you'd mess up the axle threads bad. Don't ask me how I know.

I think I'll try one of these Kinetics. They appeal to the cheapskate in me.

[Heavy Flat Head]

On a stude site there they used a old hub to pull the rear drum off of the tapered axel. It used a flat piece of steel with a hole drilled through the center of the steel with a nut welded over the hole. Take this piece of steel and weld it on the spindle hole of the old hub. Then drill out the 5 threaded holes in the old hub.

To use it, install bolts through the modified hub, thread into the rear drum. Tighten up bolt in center and off comes drum. There would be no way this set up should break with good welds and it should draw off drum in a even pull.

To me it looks like a very cheap and safe way to remove any tapered axel drum. Wish I had thought of that way years ago, maybe I would be rich by now. Yea right!