1951 Cambridge. Might need an engine rebuild

[matt167]

I bought what was supposed to be a nice old car but after getting it delivered ( part of the price agreement ) it's becoming evident that it was a quick flip and has been driven enough to load a trailer.  When I went to see it, it was running rough cold but cleared up and started to run nice.   When it was delivered, it was down a cylinder and the previous owner commented it was cold ( it was a cold day ). Knowing the flathead 6 is somewhat known for sticking valves I wasn't that worried. The price I paid included the probability of some tinkering and still come out okay. I had to have him deliver it to my moms as my house was another 1.5 hours farther for him. So it's currently stuffed in my moms garage.  I brought a U haul to come recover it last weekend and I could not get it to run.  I thru new plugs and wires on it ( plugs fouled and ancient, wires crumbling and original ).  I opened the distributor cap and the connections were loose and falling apart.  I still have switching voltage at the coil so it should have life. I did not have the right wrench for the now damaged screw ( previous owner likely used pliers ). I stuck it together is all I could do there .   I didn't run a compression test as I didn't want to waste the battery and the charger I have is a 4A automatic charger that kind of works ( Harbor freight special ).    I'm not 100% positive the distributor internals are right.  Can someone show me a picture of an IAT distributor assembled?  My '52 motors manual shows the specs but does not have a picture. 

 

What should my check list be to get it running?   The guy for sure put a new coil on it which I suspect could be bad. And he had for sure been in the distributor, but the coil is switching so the points should at least get it running.  Is there a possibility he has the wrong cap on it?  Would a different cap physically fit? 

 

I say engine rebuild as, depending on the compression it may come to that

 

  

Edited Monday at 10:44 PM by matt167

[plymouthcranbrook]

It certainly is possible to have the wrong cap and rotor. Ignition parts need to be ordered by distributor number to help insure they are correct. And I am sure you already know the failure rate out of the box for new parts is high. 

[matt167]

I know the parts situation and the quality of current production points.  I didn't get the number from the distributor but I'm fairly positive it's the IAT distributor that it should have.  

Edited yesterday at 12:48 AM by matt167

[Ivan_B]

So, the car is not running very well, is that it? I would not panic just yet. First, get it into a warm garage and do a regular "tune-up". Check the spark quality, check the points, adjust timing, dwell, idle speed (use a vacuum gauge). Make sure that the carb is clean, not flooding, and you have no vacuum leaks. And, yes, do a proper compression check (no plugs, throttle all the way open) just to see what you are dealing with 🙂

[bacelaw]

This forum has taught me not to panic until you have all the vital signs.  A compression test is absolutely worthwhile.   Even if you had a valve issue, it could be fixed without pulling the engine.   Move methodically from compression test to the other tests mentioned - you may find something simple. 

[matt167]

Well, it's not currently running. I could not get any life out of it this past weekend while I was there except pops and cracks here and there. But the spark checker I bought would not light up ( enclosed flashy one, not what I call a gap zapper ). I'm figuring I probably have multiple issues

 

The real question is if the distributor being amiss cause it to miss on a single cylinder... The day I got the car I actually took it down the road and back and it did start to break up a little but remained running 'okay ish'... It at least let me know that the brakes stop the car straight although they growl a little, and the speedometer, and temp gauges work correctly.  The same day  I started it to move it 5-6 times as I actually had to remove a built in bench to fit it in my moms garage. The last time I tried to start it that day, it coughed but would not catch. I assumed it was flooded and simply pushed the car forward and shut the door.

Edited yesterday at 01:42 AM by matt167

[Sniper]

3 hours ago, matt167 said:

The guy for sure put a new coil on it which I suspect could be bad.

12 volt coil?

 

3 hours ago, matt167 said:

Can someone show me a picture of an IAT distributor assembled?

Best I can do, my 51's distributor

[matt167]

My guess is the coil may be 12v or it's hooked up backwards. I cannot guarantee anything other than I know for a fact it did run  The coil wire also only sort of kind of fit. The boot was too small for the coil.

 

That distributor looks correct. The blue sleeve goes over a copper wire. The only thing I see different is, the condensor uses a standard wire with fork connector, so now I wonder exactly what is going on.  I forgot to bring a flash light/ work light with me  and relied on a flood light in a heat lamp housing that my mom happen to have. Worked but was a little inconvenient so I didn't get a good look ( nor a good picture ) of anything. The screw the wires attach to was left loose and falling apart

[9 foot box]

   This is a IAP-4103A-1 distributor that was in 49 and 50 Plymouths. The bare wire is a ground. The other wires need to be insulated. Here’s another, with a different condenser. This ground wire needs to be insulated.

[Ivan_B]

Did you get yourself a repair manual, already?  

[matt167]

1 hour ago, Ivan_B said:

Did you get yourself a repair manual, already?  

I've had a '53 motors manual for a very long time.