pulling the transmission

[Dodge bro]

Need some advice or help.  I am trying to disconnect the drive shaft to disconnect the transmission to pull the engine in my 1950 b2b truck with fluid drive.  One of the spline bolts in the u joint bracket that is on the back of the transmission is stripped and I can not get it free.  I have broken a bolt extractor inside the bolt and not sure how how to move forward.  I dont know if I can take that entire assembly off the back of the transmission.  you can see the bolt with the nut that is stuck.

 

Any help appreciated. 

[Dave72dt]

With the limited tools I have, a cut off wheel to get the nut off the bolt.  Access to the back side, possibly tack weld the bolt in place and remove nut.  A torch and cut the nut and bolt off.   Bolt is garbage so any damage to it with cut off wheel or torch is irrelevant.  Get the driveshaft off and deal with the bolt after.

[JBNeal]

I do not see any lock straps on them u-joint cups, so it looks like ya have the late B-2 Spicer style u-joints.  With the retainers removed, the u-joint can be pressed out with a C-clamp and a pipe spacer to get one cup out of its bore.  Then press the cross in the opposite direction to finagle the u-joint away from the yoke.  Ya might have more room to work on the axle end of the driveshaft.

[Bobacuda]

Disconnect the driveshaft at the diff, then you can pull it out of the slip joint at the front of the trans. Now you can disconnect linkages and pull the trans. 
 

This will allow you to put the trans on a workbench where it will be easier to get that bolt out. 

[Dodge bro]

I have taken the drive shaft off of the diff and the shaft wont slip out of the yoke.  I was wondering if I can pull the tranny with the drive shaft on the tranny not sure there is enough room.  

 

 

[JBNeal]

On Fluid Drive B-2s, that nearby crossmember can be unbolted for easier transmission removal.

 

[Dodge bro]

thank you.  Will do so.  How would I remove the ujoint bracket that has the speedometer cable and u joint that is mounted on the back of the transmission?  I found 3 bolts expected 4 holding it on, but didnt seem like it wanted to come off and I dont want to horse it off.

[JBNeal]

The 4th bolt is accessible with the parking brake drum removed.

[Bobacuda]

My ‘53 B4B is a Fluid Drive. Never had to pull the cross member to pull the 3 spd trans. 
 

Back to the problem. Have you greased the slip coupler before trying to pull the driveshaft? Can you get to the bolt from the back (tight fit)?

 

 

 

[Merle Coggins]

I'm with Dave on this. Cut the bolt by any means available. You won't want to reuse it at this point anyway. If you want to pull the trans out with the driveshaft connected, as others have said, it may give you options to get things in a better angle to work. Either way you'll need to get that bolt cut off to remove the driveshaft flange, because it's covering the nut that retains the drum to the output shaft. That nut will need to be removed to pull the park brake drum to properly replace that bolt. If the hole is worn then a new knurled bolt still won't hold, and it'll need to be welded in place.  

[Dodge bro]

10 hours ago, Bobacuda said:

My ‘53 B4B is a Fluid Drive. Never had to pull the cross member to pull the 3 spd trans. 
 

Back to the problem. Have you greased the slip coupler before trying to pull the driveshaft? Can you get to the bolt from the back (tight fit)?

 

 

 

 I can access the bolt but not enough to cut it.  I can move the drive shaft about 2 inches forward and backwards but wont come out any further almost as if there is a vacuum.  I think there is a small hole in the yoke that maybe plugged and creating a vacuum I will try to clear that if not will just try to pull the tranny,  Thanks for the help.

[Dodge bro]

2 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

I'm with Dave on this. Cut the bolt by any means available. You won't want to reuse it at this point anyway. If you want to pull the trans out with the driveshaft connected, as others have said, it may give you options to get things in a better angle to work. Either way you'll need to get that bolt cut off to remove the driveshaft flange, because it's covering the nut that retains the drum to the output shaft. That nut will need to be removed to pull the park brake drum to properly replace that bolt. If the hole is worn then a new knurled bolt still won't hold, and it'll need to be welded in place.  

Thank you for this insight re the nut securing the drum to the output shaft....the books I have didnt show how it was secured.  Thanks for all the advice, I cant find anyone near buy that knows anything about these trucks.  I cant find a machine shop to machine the motor let alone build it,

[JBNeal]

If your goal is to remove the engine and you have the radiator removed, the transmission input shaft can be partially retracted, then lift the engine off its motor mounts, move it forward and tilt the front of the engine a bit.  The transmission input shaft should be able to be finagled out with this gravity assist once the powertrain is angled back.

[Dodge bro]

I have the front clip remove radiator and all was at the step of removing the drive shaft to pull.  I will give this a shot..

[Dodge bro]

I was able to work on it during the holiday and removed the drive shaft.  So onto pulling engine, it looks like I can pull the engine with the tranny attached....is that a good idea or a bad idea?

[Bobacuda]

When I pulled mine (4 times in 48 yrs) the cab and front sheet metal were on the truck.  I did not want to pull the bell housing. I had already removed the carb, dist, gen, starter and disconnected the exhaust pipe. 
 

I pulled the trans, 4 bolts (NOT LIGHT). then I removed the nuts that hold the FD unit to the crankshaft and moved the FD unit out of the way. It’s NOT LIGHT Hook your lift’s chain to the engine, unbolt the front motor mount. Unbolt the engine from the bell housing and lift it out. Got to lower the back end to get the crankshaft flange out of the bell housing.

 

With all the sheet metal out of the way, pulling all of it at one time might be easier, but you will still have to pull all that stuff off to rebuild the engine. 
 

When I rebuild my ‘51 farm truck, NOT an FD, the front sheet metal and cab will be off, so I will pull as a unit. 

[John-T-53]

2 hours ago, Dodge bro said:

I was able to work on it during the holiday and removed the drive shaft.  So onto pulling engine, it looks like I can pull the engine with the tranny attached....is that a good idea or a bad idea?

 

Yes, it will all come out intact; you'll need to angle the engine/tranny assembly up at a steel angle to clear the front sheet metal (dawg house) and cab, as you dangle/lift it out vertically. I did it this way the first time, second time I removed the dawg house and it was a lot easier.