knighthawk Posted December 1, 2007 Report Share Posted December 1, 2007 As some of you know, I've chopped my '48 Dodge and am putting everything in it from an '85. Currantly setting up the rear axle, using '48 springs and mounts. Today I hope to install the sway bar ( from the frame to the axle ).Also I have the anti- roll or sway bar from under the front end of the original '48. Question : can I install this former front end sway bar on the rear axle ? any suggestions on the brackets ?...............thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 1, 2007 Report Share Posted December 1, 2007 most rear sway bars are looped to go around the driveshaft and connect forward of the axle closer the front leaf mount area...do you have the panhard rod for this car? This would be the better setup on the rear with maybe air shocks..if you are concerned with wheel tramp...constant locked tractions are ideal and the M1 setup is perfect..effective..hugger style... undectectable unless you get down and look under the car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knighthawk Posted December 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2007 I dso have the original panhard bar and brackets, after looikng closer at the sway bar, your cirrect that it has to be looped for the driveshaft. What I do not see ( in my pile of extra parts ) is, the brackets that were on the ends of the original front end sway bar. All I see are the square rubber ends at the end of the bars. Where and how were they fastened to the A arms ?........thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martybose Posted December 1, 2007 Report Share Posted December 1, 2007 I'm intrigued by the discussion of panhard bars, as my car doesn't have one, and I wish it did. Does anyone have a good set of photos showing how it fit and where it was mounted at both the chassis and the rearend? Maybe I could make one up ........ Marty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 2, 2007 Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 your rear axle has an upright bracket welded between the hog head and the passenger wheels pointing upward toward the trunk floor..the other end fastens to the frame of the car and is already got the threaded holes to affix from I know 41-48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knighthawk Posted December 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 here ya go, Marty[/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martybose Posted December 2, 2007 Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 Interesting; there are no parts like these on my rearend (or my cars!). What cars did or didn't have them installed? Marty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
50PlymouthSled Posted December 2, 2007 Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 Have any pictures of the car chopped? I'm currently in the process of finishing choppin' my 50. So I was curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knighthawk Posted December 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 [/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knighthawk Posted December 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 this is a picture of the basic chop job , also has been the headlites frenched ( not tunneled) '85 318, volare suspension, flush door handles ( from a '92 ) painted John Deere 'Blitz Black" which is kinda like a satin......... your welcome to go to :www.hotrodders.com/forum , and search for ''another chop job '' I got a bout 15 pages and close to 6000 veiws on this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normspeed Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 Knighthawk, what do you think of the blitz black? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knighthawk Posted December 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 It goes on really, really easy, flows out great, and only cost about $27 a gal, reducer was about $7, mixed 1 to 8 . I painted one door ( tried to ) with spray gun tip loose, made a mess, and except for a couple small runs, it still flowed out pretty good ! I tried to cover the whole car with only one gallon, managed to a lite tack coat and one full wet coat, and was out of paint. I don't know know how tough or durable it is , I would have liked to give it another coat, but, seening how I've already managed to scratch a fender, and still have some body mods left to do... John Deere claims that it is very easy to spot paint, so I'll probabley repaint some whenever I get it all done.Mainly , it was a cheap way to get some color on it, helps keeping me motovated ! Here is a picture of the finished paint job... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knighthawk Posted December 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 [/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 Interesting; there are no parts like these on my rearend (or my cars!). What cars did or didn't have them installed?Marty the name says why you don't have it...PLYMOUTH...I have only seen these on the full size Dodge, Chrysler, Desoto...would have to look close but don't recall seeing a place to bolt an item such as this to my Plymouth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan Faust Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 Have any pictures of the car chopped? I'm currently in the process of finishing choppin' my 50. So I was curious. I'd like to see pics of your 50 and the chopping process.... most likely not in my plans for mine.... but I would be interested to see the progress and finishing... Allan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knighthawk Posted December 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2007 go back and read post # 10, there are lot's pictures in that site I referred to. If you don't see what you re looking for , let me know, as I got lots in my computor... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
50PlymouthSled Posted April 1, 2008 Report Share Posted April 1, 2008 Looks good, Knight. I gotta post up some pictures of mine. :] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
50PlymouthSled Posted April 1, 2008 Report Share Posted April 1, 2008 Also. I'll post some up, Allan. The chop was messed up by the previous owner, so I got a lot of work to do, but I will send you some soon as I get a chance to do it. I've been very busy lately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted April 1, 2008 Report Share Posted April 1, 2008 Couldn't the sway bar be mounted so that the ends fastened to the axle or the springs, and the cross bar mounted behind the diffy? Or isn there no room due to the gas tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
50PlymouthSled Posted April 1, 2008 Report Share Posted April 1, 2008 I don't think the tanks are that big, and can be easiley relocated? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 1, 2008 Report Share Posted April 1, 2008 relocation of tanks if not that easy in these cars..what with the spare tire well, rear axle, exhaust and such...even removing the tire wella nd shifting tank right for true duals is involved. Then you have the plumbimg of the inlet tube and if upgrading to even a newer FI engine..you have the vent, rollover and supply/return lines to consider.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted April 1, 2008 Report Share Posted April 1, 2008 I would suggest that you will get better handling by mounting a thin, say 1/2" sway bar than a Panhard rod, which are normally only used on coil sprung rear ends now(I know that DeSoto/Chryslers used them) to provide lateral location, an anti sway bar is usually clamped or bolted to the rear axle tubes and the arms either go forward or back depending on the space etc.......one thing tho' make sure that you have the front sway bar mounted up, don't just run a rear sway bar and no front one as a rear sway bar can increase oversteer......I have a 1" front sway bar with heim jointed ends on my 40 Dodge with the original front end, I did have a rear sway bar but removed it yrs ago as it affected the steering too much........sorry no pics apart from the one on the shop About Us page.....andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 1, 2008 Report Share Posted April 1, 2008 Panhard rod is not technically a coil spring setup...both my Tigers have them and realr leaves.. my old Dodges also, rear leaves...I built one for my diplomat..superb handling after that..and in rear lateral body movement..they cannot be beat and a sway bar will NOT do the same job..the sway bar will transfers the weight effectively to the other side for to stiffen things up. If you want a rear nice rear set up..panhard, sway bar and constant lock traction bars similar to M1's.. Larry..look for a cop car..Diplomat/Fury...that puppy has the rear sway bar factory..you can use this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
50PlymouthSled Posted April 2, 2008 Report Share Posted April 2, 2008 Hm, I guess I don't ever stick to stock Tim, so I wouldn't be too familiar with the complications of a stock setup to change things around. I will one of these days, keep a flathead in it. I just gotta get my Plymouth finished, then I got my eyeballs on a Dodge I wouldn't mind putting a hopped up Six in. :] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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