New B-3-B owner with some basic questions

[Los_Control]

As a side note, you can check stretch by removing your distributor cap and rotate the crank back and forth.

You want to see how much free play you have in the crank before the cam moves .. which moves the distributor rotor.

 

Just a quick and dirty test when troubleshooting timing issues without tearing into the engine.

[ktb]

Thank you Los!  I measured my slack to be ~3/8”, which is okay, I guess. I will have to consider replacing the chain and sprockets while I’m in here. 
 

The cam hub moved freely once I removed the cam sprocket, so I guess it has been the piston rings keeping the crank from budging all this time. 

Unless there are other suggestions, the next phase in trying to rotate the crank will be trying to free the pistons by removing rod bearing caps and pushing up from the bottom. 
 

In the meantime I have a lot of stuff to clean up and reassemble. 
 

Thank you all!

[bkahler]

I don't know how true it is but, I was always told to replace the sprockets and chains as a set. 

[Los_Control]

13 minutes ago, bkahler said:

I don't know how true it is but, I was always told to replace the sprockets and chains as a set. 

To be honest .... seems we always call it "the timing chain" When it is really a timing chain set.

Not even sure it is possible to buy a new chain without the gears being included. Maybe, just never heard of it.

 

31 minutes ago, ktb said:

Unless there are other suggestions, the next phase in trying to rotate the crank will be trying to free the pistons by removing rod bearing caps and pushing up from the bottom. 

I would remove all of the rod bearing caps and set them aside being careful to keep them in order so can be replaced where they came from .... then see that the crank turns. ... If not then start checking the main bearings.

Then start moving the pistons by hand up and down. .... You should know very quickly if and how many pistons or a main bearing.

 

I had one main bearing that locked it up from some mouse pee ... anything can have happened over the years of sitting.

 

I would put some rubber hose over the rod bolts so they do not mark up the crank while working on it ... or some tape, anything for protection to save the polished crank surface.

 

If you find a piston froze to the cylinder wall ... use a block of wood 2"x4" ripped down to fit. Then use a hammer and wood to tap them down. just to free them up. If it is a piston, now is the time to pull them out and install new rings and clean up the cylinder bores.

 

Hopefully if it is pistons, a few sharp blows with the hammer/wood will free them up.

Your cylinders do not look too bad and should not be a big problem getting the pistons free.

[bkahler]

48 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

To be honest .... seems we always call it "the timing chain" When it is really a timing chain set.

Not even sure it is possible to buy a new chain without the gears being included. Maybe, just never heard of it.

 

 

For some makes/brand you can.  For my Triumph sports cars you can order individual parts.  I never do, but I know you can.

[Los_Control]

5 minutes ago, bkahler said:

For some makes/brand you can.  For my Triumph sports cars you can order individual parts.  I never do, but I know you can.

Have to admit I never gave it much thought.

A motorcycle chain is the same way ... replace the sprockets if you feel like it.

 

Looking at RockAuto for my 1949, they have a crank gear but no cam or chain available .... dunno where we go when we need one ... I would check Napa first.

 

On RA they also sell chains separately for a 1970 318, or in sets. So you can buy just the chain.

The cheapest timing set for the 318 is $10.16  all the way up to $105 for a billet roller version.

 

@ktb is measuring 3/8" play, I would not bother replacing it myself at this point ... If rebuilding the engine then yes.

[bkahler]

36 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

@ktb is measuring 3/8" play, I would not bother replacing it myself at this point ... If rebuilding the engine then yes.

 

Unless the gears so appreciable wear, I agree.

[Young Ed]

I would suggest trying to turn it via the flywheel. There is a tool for doing that but I've always just used a decent pry bar. You get a lot more leverage using the teeth on the flywheel and only have to remove the inspection cover to gain access