Solly Posted October 14 Report Share Posted October 14 (edited) Hello, This may be pre-mature and I hope I came to the right place. I am very close to purchasing a 1934 Plymouth Model PE. 2 door coupe, While I do have 2 restorations under my belt ( both GM 1956 and 1964) this is my first experience with a pre war Chrysler product and a 6 volt positive ground system. I have to admit since I have reached the age of 70 I have became lazier and this vehicle is about 95% or better restored . I sought this vehicle because I am no longer able to do what I used to do, However I am not so Naïve to believe that a a 90 year old vehicle will not require something. That being said here are some questions for you vintage Mopar owners . Do you use lead additives in your fuel ? what oil do you use ? I live in central AZ. so viscosity will come in to play, it was suggested by the current owner to use petroleum based racing oil or similar due to its high zinc content. I also know that 6 volt systems rely heavily on good clean grounds. What do you guys do in the event that your 6 volt needs a jump and you are away from home ? I hope I came to the right place for help and answers ! I look forward to being a active member. For 50 years I have dreamed of owning a vehicle with fat fenders and running boards and it looks like I'm one step away !! Thanks any help, tips, suggestions or comments are welcome. Edited October 14 by Solly added content Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidevalvepete Posted October 14 Report Share Posted October 14 If it all comes off and you get this vehicle then you are absolutely in a good group of people. Lots of knowledge and some pretty active members with your vehicle year here too. Hope it comes to pass ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted October 14 Report Share Posted October 14 The 1933 and up Plymouth 6 engines came from the factory with hardened exhaust valve seat inserts. No lead additives needed. Valve springs aren’t strong enough to require zinc additives. That was a post WW2 thing with push rod overhead valves. Oil weight will depend on engine condition. An engine with good bearing tolerances will do okay with 10w-40. My engine has a few miles on it and I prefer 20w-50. I haven’t had to jump a battery on my 1933 since the wiring harness was replaced and the engine was rebuilt. Worse comes to worse, pop the crank hole cover off and get a young lad the experience of starting a car engine with a hand crank. Actually, I’d probably push start it before resorting to the hand crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution soth122003 Posted October 14 Solution Report Share Posted October 14 Welcome to the forum. First things first. If the fuel pump/lines hasn't been updated to use ethanol fuel...don't use ethanol fuel. Update or stay with non-ethanol fuel. Mine wasn't when I got it and a month or so later it left me stranded. Next is zinc additives. Not needed. Oil. 10w30 or 40 will work fine if the engine is in good shape. You said it was about 95% restored so engine should be good. Trust but verify it was rebuilt. Now for the jump. WITH DEAD BATTERY ONLY. The new modern lithium ion packs probably won't work as they need a minimum voltage to work (10.5v) and most all are geared to 12v systems. So 5.4v wont cut it. If you use the old jump packs with a 12v batt installed inside it, Hook the pos cable to ground and the neg to the starter if it has a switch on the pack. Then with key on turn the switch to run the starter. When started turn switch off and disconnect. If the jump pack does not have a switch hook the neg cable to the starter and touch the pos to ground. This way if the jumper arcs (and it will) you won't weld the cable to the threaded post of the starter and mess up the threads. Other option with no jump pack, push start the car in 2nd gear. I've done this many times and it usually starts with in 15 to 20 feet. On a hill, push in clutch and roll, doesn't matter if forward or backward put it in 2nd or reverse and pop the clutch and drive on home and charge the battery with a charger. With a car that won't start it may be battery, generator, voltage regulator or what ever. Tow the car home. Fix the problem and verify the batteries condition. If the genny or the VR is out the car won't run past the batteries output. Once the batt is dead the car won't start until the other issues are addressed and fixed. Hope this helps. Oh and please post PICs when you get the car. Joe Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted October 14 Report Share Posted October 14 I bought a 12 volt jump pack at Harbor Freight from a lawn tractor because it's battery is dead completely. It has no problems firing it up I don't think it has a minimum voltage requirement and I think it has a lead acid battery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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