1949 Plymouth paint question

[Oliver Klozoff]

Going to start "polishing the *******" so to speak. I want to preserve the patina, but first want to sand the flaking and rust a bit...is the paint leaded? Do I have to take any special precautions? 

 

Also, anyone have experience with linseed oil/mineral spirits? I like the look it gives, and it's much easier/cheaper for me right now than clear coat

 

 

https://imgur.com/gallery/7fOzrBo

[vintage6t]

All I can tell you is that if you use linseed oil, don't just toss the applicator in the trash. Linseed soaked items such as rags can spontaneously combust as they dry. 

[Dave72dt]

Some kind of dust mask while sanding would be prudent.  I don't know if it has lead in it or not.  Derek from Vise grip garage has some kind of linseed oil concoction he likes to use and that it needs to be reapplied on a regular basis.  I don't know how that would effect future use of clear coat but knowing clear coat does not like any oils of any kind, you may want to take that into consideration.

[D35 Torpedo]

I was going to mention VGG. He has spent a lot of time formulating coatings. His new product is better than clear coat, from what I hear. 

[Oliver Klozoff]

18 minutes ago, D35 Torpedo said:

I was going to mention VGG. He has spent a lot of time formulating coatings. His new product is better than clear coat, from what I hear. 

Hmm tell me more... 

[Oliver Klozoff]

57 minutes ago, vintage6t said:

All I can tell you is that if you use linseed oil, don't just toss the applicator in the trash. Linseed soaked items such as rags can spontaneously combust as they dry. 

Ah yeah this I know, I'll lay them out, hose them and let dry. Thanks for the reminder and the info for others that may not know. 

[Oliver Klozoff]

48 minutes ago, Dave72dt said:

Some kind of dust mask while sanding would be prudent.  I don't know if it has lead in it or not.  Derek from Vise grip garage has some kind of linseed oil concoction he likes to use and that it needs to be reapplied on a regular basis.  I don't know how that would effect future use of clear coat but knowing clear coat does not like any oils of any kind, you may want to take that into consideration.

From what I read it's not a permanent thing, would need reapplied periodically 

 

 

[D35 Torpedo]

41 minutes ago, Oliver Klozoff said:

Hmm tell me more... 

Clear coat requires prep to adhear. It doesn't actually stick to rust or old paint that well. His newest product is self bonding, and is designed for a patina finish. I have no experience with it. This is just what I've gathered.

[Oliver Klozoff]

23 minutes ago, D35 Torpedo said:

Clear coat requires prep to adhear. It doesn't actually stick to rust or old paint that well. His newest product is self bonding, and is designed for a patina finish. I have no experience with it. This is just what I've gathered.

 

Ok ill have to give it a look. I knew clear coat required significant surface prep, where the linseed oil requires very little

 

 

https://poppyspatina.com/products/shine-juice

I assume this is the product? 

Edited July 10, 2023 by Oliver Klozoff
Added link

[Ivan_B]

If you are planning to oil it, you probably do not need to sand it. Sanding will remove plenty of old coating and likely make the "patina" look way different from what it is right now. I would just oil everything to stop rust. Reapplying it is easy-enough, just like using quick wax, when needed.

 

Also, do you have some pictures of what you are working with?

Those "patina" clear-coat paints you've seen on the internet are not a real patina/rust but a special paint imitating that look (at least when done professionally) ?

Edited July 10, 2023 by Ivan_B

[Oliver Klozoff]

32 minutes ago, Ivan_B said:

If you are planning to oil it, you probably do not need to send it. Sending will remove plenty of old coating and likely make the "patina" look way different from what it is right now. I would just oil everything to stop rust. Reapplying it is easy-enough, just like using quick wax, when needed.

 

Also, do you have some pictures of what you are working with?

Those "patina" clear-coat paints you've seen on the internet are not a real patina/rust but a special paint imitating that look (at least when done professionally) ?

https://imgur.com/gallery/7fOzrBo click for pics

 

 

Has some flaking, roof is pretty rusty. Also, dash is rust. I want to get the roughest of the stuff knocked down

 

[Los_Control]

If it was me, I would try to actually remove the rust & bring those spots down to bare metal.

You already have some gray primer showing, maybe just shoot some gray back over the bare metal.

I would be interested to see what a paint shop would charge to color match some paint?

Have them put it in a spray can .... would not need much to hit a few spots.

 

I get a kick out of these kids, they did a good job making this video ....  Think they did some comparison of 2 products & give their opinion.

Might be worth watching to see what Dan covers .... He has welded in patches then color matches & spray bombs them .... keeping patina.

I just do not remember if it is this video or a different one where he compared VGG product to linseed oil ... VVG won.

 

 

 

[Ivan_B]

1 hour ago, Oliver Klozoff said:

https://imgur.com/gallery/7fOzrBo click for pics

Oh, this is worse than I though, there is barely any coating to preserve Maybe you can first try to lightly buff it with the same oil, using one of those polishing rubber disks, or what ever these are made from? At least, that will save some remaining paint/primer. I am just afraid that if you start sanding, you'll hit bare metal in the matter of seconds...

 

Also, I would recommend using anti-corrosion oil everywhere on the inside (assuming you'll eventually put some interior in it). I've just used Rust Cure Formula 3000 inside my car, while I had the interior refreshed. Have nothing to compare it with, really, but it seems to work well.

[D35 Torpedo]

8 hours ago, Oliver Klozoff said:

 

Ok ill have to give it a look. I knew clear coat required significant surface prep, where the linseed oil requires very little

 

 

https://poppyspatina.com/products/shine-juice

I assume this is the product? 

Linseed oil on its own attracts dirt. Check out the Landshark line. It is more permanent.

[Oliver Klozoff]

https://imgur.com/gallery/y2ChJYY

 

I went and did the BLO/MS ... 1 part blo to 2 parts ms. Came out better than expected. 

[Ivan_B]

Don't forget those bumpers and other chrome (on both sides)

[Oliver Klozoff]

46 minutes ago, Ivan_B said:

Don't forget those bumpers and other chrome (on both sides)

Haha that back bumper so flaky and sharp it would shred my towel. Currently trying to source a used on at a reasonable price

[Los_Control]

If your cheap like I am, you can sand it down then use some fake chrome spray paint on it ..... will look better til you find something better.

 

My truck am thinking to paint them fake chrome ..... they are painted anyways never were chrome ..... just call it a day.

[Oliver Klozoff]

1 hour ago, Los_Control said:

If your cheap like I am, you can sand it down then use some fake chrome spray paint on it ..... will look better til you find something better.

 

My truck am thinking to paint them fake chrome ..... they are painted anyways never were chrome ..... just call it a day.

Oh I'm hella cheap....this may be a viable option 

[Los_Control]

I have some old cab lights for the top of my truck, the real heavy amber glass lenses ..... chrome is shot. Only option to me is to paint them & they look ok at 15' away.

 

[Ivan_B]

20 minutes ago, Oliver Klozoff said:

Oh I'm hella cheap....this may be a viable option 

You'll probably get better results (from 10 feet away) cleaning, filling, and wrapping it in chrome film instead