dgrinnan Posted March 22, 2023 Report Posted March 22, 2023 (edited) Do any of the various manuals show details for bed assembly and placement of the cross members? Something similar to this but one that shows the measurements and placement of the bolts to hold down the bed and cross members. I am willing to purchase a manual but I am not sure which one to buy. I have a "W" Series Shop Manual and it does not have this information. Edited March 22, 2023 by dgrinnan Quote
Young Ed Posted March 22, 2023 Report Posted March 22, 2023 I just checked my W series shop manual and I don't see it there either. You might need the crash charts if anything has it. There is a chart floating around somewhere. It's also pretty easy to back into with the finished length and width of the box. If you are cutting yourself make sure you have your strips on hand. I had to cut all mine twice because my strips didn't match the chart cuts. My turkey truck build thread has some pics of my bed construction Quote
Young Ed Posted March 22, 2023 Report Posted March 22, 2023 Hopefully this links you to my thread. If it goes to the end go back a couple pages. 1 Quote
dgrinnan Posted March 22, 2023 Author Report Posted March 22, 2023 Ed, your post was very helpful. I can figure it out from here except for one question. Across the front of my bed I am not sure what should be bolted in. There is an angle that is obvious the ends of the bed boards sit on. The part that has me confused is the fasteners. The angle has fixed threaded receivers/bolts. For all the other bolts they are carriage bolts that sit in the square holes of the metal bed strips and two corner strips. You can not use a carriage bolt on the these. Do you just run regular bolts through the wood into the fasteners? Is there a metal strips that run on top of the ends of the boards? Quote
dgrinnan Posted March 22, 2023 Author Report Posted March 22, 2023 I did just find this image. It looks like it does just have regular bolts going through the wood into those fasteners or did you do something different? Quote
Young Ed Posted March 22, 2023 Report Posted March 22, 2023 Yes a bolt or screw. I think the few crusty ones were your basic round head screw. Personally I'd go for a countersunk screw to sit flush Quote
dgrinnan Posted March 22, 2023 Author Report Posted March 22, 2023 I will figure out the size and get some flat headed machine screws and counter sink them flush. Thanks again. Quote
Los_Control Posted March 22, 2023 Report Posted March 22, 2023 Not sure if I'm correct .... My experience with my 49 low side bed, and my 49 utility trailer that is a standard bed. The widths are different in the bed & the boards. Just saying while I thought the beds were the same, one has lower sides then the others ..... A quick comparison & there are 6 or 8 things different .... the more you look the more there is. So for the manual to show diagrams for all the different beds, short bed, long bed, 9' box, flat beds .... Would be a complete book all by itself. Your diagram looks correct to me. Is your corner strip not pre drilled? For proper bolt placement. Mine is not as I made my corner strip, I'm just going to line up the bolts with my bed strips ..... so they are lined up all the way across like in the photo you just posted. Also on my 49, I do not know if 47 is the same. There is a aprox 3/16" piece of rubber that the cross members sit on when bolting to the frame. So I will need to add the rubber between the bed side & the cross member .... leaving just 3/4" for the wood to slide in. If I do not add the rubber, I will have a 3/16" gap between the wood & corner strip. At least that is how I setup my 49 trying to copy the original. I do not know if the 47 has the same ..... are all your cross members wood? Quote
Young Ed Posted March 22, 2023 Report Posted March 22, 2023 (edited) Yes W series at least for 1/2 tons all the cross members are wood. Actual 2x4s. For both by trucks I modified the rear one to make it once piece rather than a crossmember and separate filler under the tailgate. Edit- yes you need a pad too. The true test of height is of the grease fitting is centered in the filler panel above the running board. Mine are sidewalls of an old tire. Edited March 22, 2023 by Young Ed Quote
Los_Control Posted March 22, 2023 Report Posted March 22, 2023 Just now, Young Ed said: yes you need a pad too. The true test of height is of the grease fitting is centered in the filler panel above the running board. Mine are sidewalls of an old tire. Thanks for clearing that up Ed. I just saw no mention of the pad in @dgrinnanpost above ..... Might be confusing why there is so much slop if not aware of the pad. Quote
dgrinnan Posted March 30, 2023 Author Report Posted March 30, 2023 (edited) I found a cheaper alternative than the aftermarket options for the body mount pads. I am a fan of DCM but to order the pads with shipping cost it would have been $34. I found these and thought it was worth a try. They arrived today and will work great. They are 4" X 4". You would need 4 and then cut them in half giving you 8 2" X 4" pads. You could probably get away with just two and cutting them into 2" X 2" pieces. The DCM pads are 2.5" X 2". They are the perfect material and thickness. Cost, including shipping was $11.82. Fast shipping. I ordered yesterday and received them today. Supply House rubber pads Edited March 30, 2023 by dgrinnan Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 30, 2023 Report Posted March 30, 2023 that material has many uses when it comes to isolation mounting...been using it since the late 80's best part is if you are wrapping an electric fuel pump you get isolation with flow through ventilation... Quote
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