Buck's 1950 B2D

[Merle Coggins]

You may want to think about getting the thermostat bypass reconnected at some point in time. With it blocked off you won’t get the circulation, with the thermostat closed, that allows the warm coolant to flow past the thermostat so that it can open when needed. 

[buck0wens]

Hi Merle. Thanks for the reply. This engine is a '55 Plymouth 230 with an internal bypass that still has the plumbing from the old, non-internal, bypass motor attached. I would just keep the bypass if I needed it but the plan is to get a thermo housing from a later engine at a future date. The thermostat opened and the water in the radiator got nice and hot. Thanks for looking out for me though. ?

Edited January 8, 2023 by buck0wens
Fat fingers

[JBNeal]

yessiree that looks like a re-cored radiator...the original core had the honeycomb structure.

 

additional information - radiator identification for non-pressurized systems

[buck0wens]

Had some time to work on the 'Ol girl today. Got the master cylinder and the new brake line in and I now have a super solid pedal ... finally something that went better than planned ?. I'm going to have to track down the dragging wheel and figure out what the deal is but I might get to take her on her maiden voyage tomorrow (with my remote gas tank ?). I'll put up a vid if it happens.

 

Dropped the gas tank and it's going to be a problem. Crazy rust, JB Weld falling off that's covering holes, sending unit corroded and seized (and the arm is green?!). I could probably get crazy and make it work but it would be a lot of work and probably a constant battle after so I'm going to resist the urge to repair and just get a new one. Buying it will officially put my parts total over the amount I originally paid for the vehicle but I'm sure it's just the tip of the iceberg LOL. Probably cut this one apart and see exactly what is plugging the pickup and what it looks like in there unless anyone has a good use for it. I can't see what's going on from the sending unit hole and it would be good to know for future reference ... the manual has jack on it.

 

So I have a couple questions.

 

The gas tank was mounted on some long bolts with springs ... I guess to absorb big bumps? There were only 2 of the spring bolts mounted kitty-corner and the others were bolted solid to the frame with a newer looking nut and bolt. One of the spring bolts had a sleeve in it that was welded to the tank which seemed like it was limiting travel to almost nothing? Should I try to mount my new one with 4 spring mounted bolts, put it back with 2 springs, or should I just put 4 solid bolts on? Seems like a suspended tank might make for squeakiness in the cab from the filler neck?

 

The other question is about the accelerator pedal. I bought a cheap ebay one and it was a plastic POS that barely worked and bent almost immediately ?. I bought a new, metal one from DCM classics but haven't put it in yet so hopefully it'll be better. My question is about the linkage between the stud that comes out of the pedal and the rod that's mounted to the firewall and goes to the other side of the car. There seems to be a lot of side to side play in that linkage. I'm not sure what the linkage is supposed to look like and if what I have is original ... probably not lol. I'm thinking some of the play is wear and I could probably get a better fit if it needs it. I found some pictures on here but it's not really clear to me. It looks like I could put some washers on the rod to eliminate SOME of the play and I could definitely tighten up the joint with a bushing or longer sleeve welded to the pedal stud but I was wondering if there's some sort of guide that goes through the firewall or if the system just relies in the rigidity of the pedal to keep it straight and nothing else is required.

 

Any help, as always, is greatly appreciated.

[JBNeal]

additional information - fuel tank installation

[Merle Coggins]

The tank should be mounted solid to the front cross member with a couple of bolts. The rear mount will have the springs. The tank lip should rest on top of the mount bracket and the bolts with springs are there to allow for frame twist without twisting the tank. There should be spacers inside the springs to allow the bolts to tighten against the tank flange without fully compressing the springs. 

[buck0wens]

Thanks for the info JB and Merle. When I took the tank off, the tank was mounted below the frame rails and springs on either corner which was causing most of the confusion. Knowing that the tank is supposed to sit on top of the frame rails and that the springs go on the back together makes the stock setup make way more sense.  New tank is on the way. Since the tank supports it and if I end up going with an electric pump, I'll probably install an in-tank pump with a return system for that reliable cool gas ... but for time/convenience/budget's sake, looks like I'll be using the stock setup with a mechanical pump until I have issues/time/money.

 

Didn't get to drive it because it looks like one of my front brake drums is hooped. There is one spot that it's dragging really bad ... like need a pry bad to turn the wheel/wheel nearly skids when driven bad ... even with the minor adjustment all the out. I won't know until I get it apart but not looking good. I really like the idea of front disk brakes. Someone mentioned earlier that I should look into dodge power wagon front disk conversion. Are the front hubs on the 1 ton the same as the power wagon? I also read about someone swapping out 1/2 ton hubs and using a conversion kit? I don't think I'll need the capacity but would I be able to use my stock rims with the 1/2 ton hubs?

[Los_Control]

45 minutes ago, buck0wens said:

Thanks for the info JB and Merle. When I took the tank off, the tank was mounted below the frame rails and springs on either corner which was causing most of the confusion. Knowing that the tank is supposed to sit on top of the frame rails and that the springs go on the back together makes the stock setup make way more sense. 

You sound like a old carpenter.

I also demand my Tank sits on top of the framing .... not hanging below the metal support by fasteners...

Fact is the Tank does hang below the brace from fasteners .... I guess metal fabrication & carpentry are not the same.

 

 

I built my own bracket & my tank sits on top of the bracket .... Like a old carpenter should.

Seems these metal fabricators do not care .... they will hang the tank from fasteners underneath. .... Including Mopar in 1950.

Not this old carpenter .... my tank sits on top....

 

As far as a front disk conversion, I think the front hub, inside wheel bearings diameter changes on your bigger truck compared to the 1/2 ton trucks.

Just saying at the very least you need bigger bearings to fit on your larger shaft. That will change the rotors you would use ....

While I have never done the disk brake conversion, I think you will need to do your own homework to find parts that fit. ... For a larger truck.

[Los_Control]

To explain myself .... When a carpenter runs a header across a opening, they sit the weight like roof trusses on top of the header or brace.

 

When metal fabricators run a brace .... they just hang a heavy fuel tank from the brace & use bigger bolts to hold it.

 

Never in my lifetime will I think it is OK to see the fuel tank hanging from a brace with fasteners .... although the factory did it all the time.

 

 

[buck0wens]

I hear you ... that's why I thought maybe it was some sort of dampening happening at first ... letting the tank drop a little slower than the truck. This tank has definitely been off before because someone painted over the JB weld that didn't stick LOL. I think the factory had it mounted on top (from the pictures of what look like originals JBNeal pointed me to) but maybe people are too lazy or forget how it went and just do it the easy way.

 

I reached out to a couple of people who do power wagon front disk conversions. From what I'm reading/seeing, it seems that they machine the hubs down ... or at least make a flat spot ... and then weld a rotor to the hub. Seems like they could do that with any diameter hub if there's enough meat and a rotor with an ID close enough to the hub OD ... this truck does have a lot meat everywhere I look. So hopefully they can help me. The little driving I did do confirmed that I do have a 4 speed so I might get a rear axle that'll give me a better top speed and I'll be able to change the rears out as well and have something that I can easily maintain and stop fast when I need to. Although I was able to lock up the back tires so something good is happening out back.

[Merle Coggins]

Here's a couple pics from my B2C, which should be similar to your B2D

 

Springs at the rear mount

 

Bolted solid to the bottom of the cross member at the front. 

[ggdad1951]

Stock would be 2 solid mounted on one side and springs on the other end.   This allows the frame to flex and not twist the tank.  The spring loaded side of the tank should "float" on the springs to allow for this flexture. 

[buck0wens]

Been working on the truck an hour at at time but work has kept me off the computer. New gas tank is in ... truck runs on its own now but won't rev up like it did pulling from the aux tank in the engine compartment ... might just be a coincidence. Installed a fuse/relay box but have only hooked up the ignition so far so I can start/stop the engine from inside the car ... it's the little things right?? LOL. Replaced the squished brake line and the "T" block (what a PITA). I have pics of all and will document my woes soon. 

 

After I got the brake lines hooked up, I found 2 leaking wheel cylinders. Decided I should just bite the bullet and redo all the brakes and bearings. Entertained the idea of axle swaps/body swaps/brake conversions but I think just fixing what I have is my best bet right now. So I found wheel cylinders for a decent price and have them in hand and they match but if I'm taking everything apart, I was thinking I may as well put in new bearings and wheel seals. Tried 3 places locally and have almost no confidence in their recommendations LOL ... and they're looking at me like I'm crazy when I say I want USA or Japan made bearings ... kids these days!

 

I'm hoping someone has documented the part numbers I need for the bearings and seals. I searched for an hour and got lots of good info about brakes and bearings but no parts numbers. I'm sure when I take them out I can get part numbers off of them but I'd like this to be a weekend job if possible. As far as I know, everything is stock. It's a 1950 B2D. If anyone has info or if there's a reference out there someone can point me too, I'd greatly appreciate it.

 

THX,

Buck