Racerstev Posted November 12, 2022 Report Posted November 12, 2022 Hey all need a little help. I have a 39 Plymouth Coupe that needs some live on the brake system. Seems the wheel cly’s have stuck pistons and at least one is wrong. the problem i am having is routing the front brake hose’s. The po had the hose routed behind the upright, getting pinched between the shock and upright. This can’t be right. if i run the hose in front of the upright it can get caught as well. The wheel cly is in the right spot, front left. coukd the bracket be in the wrong spot? Quote
andyd Posted November 14, 2022 Report Posted November 14, 2022 Your brake hose setup has me intrigued as whilst my car is a 1940 Oz Dodge which is essentially a 1940 Plymouth its brake hose chassis brackets are BEHIND the axle centreline NOT in front as yours are yet yours appear to have always been mounted at the front .........odd.........the brake hose at the very least should not go thru the suspension assembly and if anything the hoses that are there would seem to be too short to go on the outside of the upright or spindle as shown...........hopefully someone in the US will reply to this question.............andyd Quote
TodFitch Posted November 14, 2022 Report Posted November 14, 2022 The lubrication chart in the 1936-42 Plymouth Factory Service manual seems to show the front brake hoses going to a fitting to the rear of the centerline of the front wheels. But that illustration is quite cluttered and its primary purpose is to show lubrication points so I could be interpreting it wrong. There are also some photos/illustrations in the brake service section that seem to show the hoses going to the rear of the wheel cylinders. I am not an expert on the 1939 models but my strong impression from the service manual illustrations is that the hoses should go to the rear, not to the front. Quote
Racerstev Posted November 15, 2022 Author Report Posted November 15, 2022 (edited) Thanks for the help, i have a little more info. Notice were the bracket is mounted on the drivers side, on the passenger side it is mounted on the 2 holes that are forward and higher. The pass side has the hose going in from the front. i found 2 pics in the 39 shop manual. Notice the tie rod end is not visible so we are looking at the pic from the front. Edited November 15, 2022 by Racerstev Quote
Racerstev Posted November 15, 2022 Author Report Posted November 15, 2022 (edited) One more note. I called “Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts” were i purchased the cly’s from. seems 1939 was unique, 40 up is different and 38 down. They are looking into using a cly from a different year. Or i may just swap the cly’s side for side, this will put the large piston on the leading shoe. Not the best idea for wear but may work. Also it’s clear the front brake lines have been replaced so who knows if they are routed correctly. Steve Edited November 16, 2022 by Racerstev Quote
Young Ed Posted November 15, 2022 Report Posted November 15, 2022 If I remember right from Dads 39 all 4 wheel cylinders are unique. Could it be you have backs on the front and fronts in the rear? Quote
Racerstev Posted November 15, 2022 Author Report Posted November 15, 2022 Ok, i figured it out. Seems i was sold 40 up cly’s, not 39. Very annoyed that i had to corner the guy to finally have him admit to it. Just tell the truth and all is good. Now what to do, seems e bay sells split bore cly’s with the hose coming straight out the back. So no 180 degree, just 90 degree,better. Or put the cly’s i have on the opposite sides, should work. Or replumb the brake lines. Or extend the line i have now to the back of the wheel and build a new bracket. does anyone have a pic of the 40 up line routing and bracket location? Steve Quote
andyd Posted November 15, 2022 Report Posted November 15, 2022 Duuno if this is any help.....my car is a 1940 Oz Dodge which was essentially a 1940 Plymouth......whilst the front end has been modified etc & it has a 318 Poly the actual brake hose mounting positions are as per original even if the actual hose brackets are now not the original ones.....the ones pictured bolt onto the stock holes in the frameand were just in front of the triangular steering box bracket on the drivers side and in the corresponding same position on the passenger side...........regards from Oz......andyd. Quote
Racerstev Posted November 16, 2022 Author Report Posted November 16, 2022 Thanks for the photos, big help. Two things come to mind. I need a bump stop, this might give the clearance i need to run the hose behind the upright. The other is a temporary hard line to the back of the suspension to mount like the 40 until I replace all the hardlines. The car is still very new to me, at thus point i need brakes so I can drive it and evaluate it’s other problems. Steve Quote
Racerstev Posted November 16, 2022 Author Report Posted November 16, 2022 One last question, before i move forward. Those of you with disc brakes was the upgrade worthwhile? Quote
sidevalvepete Posted November 16, 2022 Report Posted November 16, 2022 Hi racerstev. My two cents here. Lots of guys have tried different things here. Stock to upgrades. Every one a valid option to suit the choices taken. You have the Manual. There will be guys here that have the original layout. Mother Chrysler did it pretty well in the day at the mention of different cylinders for front an back, side and side etc is true. Mine is a 38, and don't have all the info for your 39 but somebody will. The stock brakes do work fine. One way or another you have to fix these up. Maybe staying stock is the starting point. When you add here, change there etc you end up with creating other issues that keep needing to be solved. Bit of learning and patience will see you right. Always liked the independent front suspension on those 39s...a good development from my 38...good luck...? Quote
andyd Posted November 17, 2022 Report Posted November 17, 2022 Re the upper bumpers.......1939/40 use the same single 3/8th bolt on type, from 1941 on they use a type that is originally held by the upper shock mount pin..........unless you want to swap to disc brakes then I'd concentrate on getting the original setup working correctly then decide whether you want to redo or modify it........andyd. Quote
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