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Posted

I’m now ready to bolt the box to the freshly painted frame of my 1940 1/2 ton truck. When I bought the truck there was zero wood left other than a couple of 2x4’s slide in from side to side in the lower box channel so that the box could kind of sit on the frame; I am now ready to bolt the box to the frame like it was from the factory.

so it looks like the lower box channel on each side of the box takes 1 1/2” material perfectly, and I also noticed there are 4 pairs of bolts on the frame from front to back of the box that would bolt the box to the frame.

My questions are, what width of wood was used across the box to bolt through to connect the box to the frame? (2x4, 2x6?).

would you guys recommend going with pressure treated wood on these cross boards?

And finally, each of my box to connector bolts has a rubber pad still on it between the washers (again all of my wood is long gone); I’m assuming these rubber pads would go between the wooden box cross members and the frame when bolted together?

I’ll deal with the longer box floor boards later, but any help you guys can give about the wooden box frame boards would be appreciated!

Posted

I have the remains of mine from my '41 1/2 ton. I'm pretty sure my back one is original but not sure about the others. They all measure 2 in. tall x 1 3/4in wide x 48in long. The back one is about 52 1/2 in +- to extend into the bed panel stake pockets. The back one also extends off the frame ends about 1in. My back one is a solid board but but the others are made up of 2 boards fastened together. Not sure how they came from the factory. Looks like they sat on some kind of reinforced rubber pad 1/8in - 1/4in thick.   

DCM sells them as a set. 

Working in construction pressure treated lumber and metal did not work well together. Always used a membrane between them to prevent corrosion. I would not use it myself. 

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Posted

Here's a few more pics. The lower bolt for the tailgate hinge goes through the cross member and stake pocket. Upper hinge bolt goes into a factory set nut inside the stake pocket which is rusted out on mine. Another bolt goes from under the cross member vertically up into a factory set nut in the bottom of the stake pocket. that's rusted out on mine also. Picture with bed side panel lifted up shows rear cross member cut at slight angle or curve to fit the contour of the outside of the stake pocket. 

This trucks been apart for many years and I saved everything. It's time to finish it now so I fitted everything together so my body guy can see what he's working with before I take it back apart and give him all the pieces. 

I certainly don't claim to be an expert on this stuff but have been able to figure out how it all goes together pretty good with what I have. Also, just got my engine back this week from the rebuilder and he had it running in his shop before I picked it up so I'm pretty pumped up about getting this project done. 

 

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Posted

I used actual 2x4 pieces for mine. For the rear one I notched the ends to fit into the stake pockets. For the rubber pads I used a hole saw on an old tire and made my own.

Posted

It's amazing how little the truck tech changed back then.  Your 40 pics could be my 56 (or up til 60) with only a change of material.  The 56 uses a steel u-channel in place of the wood.  And mine is bent, like a lot of pieces on it! 

Posted

That’s good to know as I also have an Uber rare 1958 Fargo Sweptside that I will need to completely rebuild the box floor for as well

Posted

This will hopefully show you my build thread where I put the box on my 47.

 

 

Posted

So I bought some 8/4 red oak and got busy in my wood shop and made the crossmember. For now I just added scrap 4/4 oak and tge box to crossmember bolts as temporary spacers to represent the deck boards, and it’s great to have a rock solid box that’s not all askew on the frame as my wood has been rotted and gone for a long time.

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