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12v Starter Solenoid in a 6v car.


OUTFXD
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Are  you sure it's the solenoid clicking and not the starter?  Might slap a stethoscope on them to verify, might be the starter is going out, which could cause a higher than normal current draw and that could account for the 3v you are seeing at the solenoid.  Have you done any voltage drop testing?  That would sort out what the problem item is.

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29 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Are  you sure it's the solenoid clicking and not the starter?  Might slap a stethoscope on them to verify, might be the starter is going out, which could cause a higher than normal current draw and that could account for the 3v you are seeing at the solenoid.  Have you done any voltage drop testing?  That would sort out what the problem item is.

Not sure of anything at this point. Starter has been rebuilt.  Not that THAT would assure anything. I will admit to the starter still being the issue crossing my mind.

 

I would ask you to define drop testing,  This can also be used as a "Probably not" answer.

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Try it with the spark plugs removed. This will remove the load on the starter

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57 minutes ago, Sniper said:

 

https://us.autologic.com/news/how-to-perform-a-voltage-drop-test

 

What you are doing is testing for excess resistance in the circuit. 

Okay,  I am confused. I watched the video.  went and got a multipul digit reader. set it to DC20. Hooked the positive lead to Hot (Negative in this case)  and the negative lead to the hot terminal on the starter. Imeadiately got 8 volts. Am I confused or should there be 0 volts to the starter until the solenoid is engaged?

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That's not how you do a voltage drop test.  Not sure why you are reading 8v with what you are doing, you should not be.

 

I will do a voltage drop test video tomorrow an post it up on my YouTube account so you can see it in a more relevant to our stuff aspect.

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34 minutes ago, Sniper said:

That's not how you do a voltage drop test.  Not sure why you are reading 8v with what you are doing, you should not be.

 

I will do a voltage drop test video tomorrow an post it up on my YouTube account so you can see it in a more relevant to our stuff aspect.

Thanks for all your help and for putting up with me.  Electrical wasnt my strong suit when I had a brain.

 

I do have to ask if the tool used is different than a multimeter.

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You would use a digital multi-meter to do this test.  Preferably one that will save the max reading so you can more easily see it.  An analog meter likely doesn't have the resolution for you to see a 0.1 or 0.2 voltage reading.

 

I have all sorts of digital meters, some mine, some for work.   

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2 hours ago, OUTFXD said:

When the spark plugs are removed,  the engine spins freely,  accompanied by the now familier rapid clicking.

Disconnect the solenoid from the starter and apply power to the solenoid only, check if it still clicks.

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   What is the part no. of the solenoid you are using? I replaced mine with a Standard SS549. It is stamped 6 volt, despite what rock auto says. A SS558 has the remote button on the bottom. The ears on the solenoid had to be opened to mount the existing bolt holes. I believe a P15 is wired to deliver power to the solenoid by way of the starter button ,with the key on. An Echlin st53 is a ground from the button, an Echlin st58 requires power to actuate. The solenoid part no. that you need is 1120 518. I’m thinking of buying one from Yesterday Tractors, just to see if it has the correct bolt pattern. Your wiring has changed from original stock. Autolite doesn’t make the SST4001 any more. That would be the original solenoid number. Check out Brillman for different 6 volt solenoids. 

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Took the starter to the shop this morning and the guy swears its okay.  So I broke down and bought a new 6v battery (being the only thing left I HAVENT replaced with a new piece).  Sadly its cold and raining so reinstalling the starter is going to have to wait for better weather.

 

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So... Caught a break in the weather, re-installed the Starter, Installed the new battery, Hit the key and the cab is filled with the sound of rapid clicking. 

 

I have now replaced every piece of the starter circuit.  My frustration levels are hitting the red line. I have dumped all my spare change into a VERY simple circuit for three months and I cant help but feel things are getting worse, not better.

 

I am totally at a loss.

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I will try that,  However I replaced the key switch last weekend.

 

Thinking on how the project was "Going backwards" I replaced the "New" solenoid with the one that originally came with the car.  Engine will turn over,  But it drags. I jumped it with the 12v battery and drove it to the store and back and it would barely turn over.

 

At least I can get her to start.

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Was wondering what is the cold cranking amps of the 6V battery you bought?  In your very first post, you said with the old solenoid it would turn, without clicking. Can you try the old solenoid again?   Also, maybe take good pictures of your setup: top of battery, ground wiring, wiring to solenoid, wiring to starter, etc. Maybe someone will notice something.   

 

You beat me to it with your post...?

Edited by Bryan
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