Help! 1941 Dodge WC-1. Crank but no start.

[kencombs]

I'd have to hear it to be sure, but the 'stop for a second frequently' could be the result of a cylinder attempting to run but the timing is too far advanced. Ignition before the piston is even close to TDC.

[Jim G]

5 hours ago, shane_thompson said:

 Not having fun anymnore

No, now is when the fun starts

Basics, every engine needs Spark, fuel, and compression to run.

You said a wire was grounded wrong. Did it burn something out in the ignition system? Do you have a good strong spark? Did you change points and condenser when you did wires and plugs? Are the plugs gapped correct? Are you certain you have a good strong spark? You said you put oil in the cylinders, did you spin it over with the new plugs in after? did the oil foul the plugs? Sometimes if the ignition system is weak, the spark will look good enough when the plug is out, but won't spark when under compression.

 

And then . . . sometimes, these old beasts just don't like waking up after a nap, before I parked my Fargo, if it sat over winter it was  hard starting in the spring, either had to zap it with 12 volts (not recommended unless you know what you're doing) or give it a tug.

 

Fuel pump not pumping is a separate issue, is it drawing from the tank? is the tank or supply line sludged up? is it sucking air from somewhere, is it priming? is it just worn out and not working?

 

Keep at it, and don't give up. WHEN you get this thing running the face splitting grin you get will be worth it.

[Dodgeed]

I like to try the simplest things first. I've been in your situation, and one time, just cleaning off the points took care of it; another time, cleaning out the carb did the trick, assuming that the battery is strong, cables are free of corrosion especially underneath the plastic jackets, and you've got good electrical connections. 

[Brent B3B]

On 1/15/2022 at 12:05 AM, shane_thompson said:

 

I hear that the oil pump and/or distributor cap can be inadvertently turned the wrong way,  - messing up the timing. 

With the harmonic balance timing marks at TDC on the pointer  and the Distributor rotor pointed at #1 spark plug wire on the cap. both valves (Intake and exhaust) should be closed. You will know if they are closed because both tappets will be at their lowest position at the same time

if you rotate the harmonic balance a little more the #1 exhaust valve will start to open

 

Also, did you make sure the valves are adjusted?

Edited February 12, 2022 by Brent B3B

[JBNeal]

I tested a mechanical fuel pump once by rigging up a fuel line to a gas can, then engaged the pump lever several times...the pump outlet just dribbled.  Then I rebuilt that fuel pump with a kit from Terril Machine, tested it again, and with the 1st lever stroke, fuel shot to the other side of the barn.

[Brent B3B]

13 hours ago, JBNeal said:

I tested a mechanical fuel pump once by rigging up a fuel line to a gas can, then engaged the pump lever several times...the pump outlet just dribbled.  Then I rebuilt that fuel pump with a kit from Terril Machine, tested it again, and with the 1st lever stroke, fuel shot to the other side of the barn.

hahaha, the image of you running around the barn squirting fuel on those pesky vermin with a fuel pump….. comedy ?

[JBNeal]

while in jr.high, I may or may not have gotten into serious trouble more than once after allegedly chasing ppl with a Bic lighter and a can of Right Guard  ?