'53 B-4TA-190 Fire Engine

[E37Bruco]

What for oils are you guys using in the transmission? The manual just says SAE90... Which in my mind is marine gear oil haha

 

Also is 85w140 gear oil fine for the rear 2spd axle?

 

 

 

[Brent B3B]

Back in he 80’s, (when I worked at the lube shops) we used 80w90 GL4 in the transmission and a 80w90 GL5 in the rear differentials. 

(Some vehicles used a gl1 and ATF in the transmissions etc.)

 

now days there is more to choose from but, i use the 85w140 if it has the GL5 rating (in both gear boxes)

As far as flavor..... that is a personal preference 

 

I would guess you are wanting to change the fluid because of the condensation buildup over time, not because it is due to be changed by mileage? 

 

Lol, by the way.... it is best to drive the truck and warm the fluid up before draining and refilling ? (just funin ya)

[Dodgeb4ya]

85w/140 for the trans and the two speed double reduction rear axle.

Buy it by the gallons!

[E37Bruco]

Gonna get a 5 gallon bucket ordered. Thanks!

 

Parts are slowly coming in now for the engine. Hope to have it running by the end of the month. 

 

[E37Bruco]

I gotta remove most of the emergency system to get to the chassis wiring ??‍♂️ 

 

 

[E37Bruco]

I'll be pulling out the 2nd fuel tank too.

 

No clue why this image posted upside down

Edited April 12, 2022 by E37Bruco

[E37Bruco]

Was able to drop the Bendix brake booster today to. I'll be getting this out to white post.

[E37Bruco]

There is really only one quality place in this area that makes fuel line and such. I still need to get by there but I want to ask you guys also. I broke the brass tee at the front carburetor filter. Anybody ever see one of these on a parts shelf somewhere? It's two larger female flares and smaller male flare. I still need a thread check everything for actual sizes

[Dodgeb4ya]

Here is the correct brass  fitting for the Moly Block twin carbs..

[E37Bruco]

It's been a shitty day....lost a plunger to one of the carbs. It's in the flared fitting that threads into the bowl against the float stop. Carbs are Carter BB E9G1, which seem to be a completely different fitting and needle setup than the 2 in the carb kits. 

 

Currently searching the web for something similar ?

Edited April 15, 2022 by E37Bruco

[E37Bruco]

And a glass fuel bowl screw snapped haha I give up for the day.

 

At this point, I think I'll just throw a newer inline filter between the tank and pump. Then plumb the flex line directly to the carbs

[Dodgeb4ya]

Isn't it fun working on a engine that has sat for years?...

Been through and dealt with exactly the same problems.

Yeah...just plumb the fuel system up like you say. Get it running.

Then later re-do it the correct factory way.

You want steps forward not backwards!?

[E37Bruco]

I got very lucky today and found that carb pin while pulling the fuel pump. But I did snap the fuel pumps 90° fitting coming from the tank line haha

[Brent B3B]

Geez, glad you found the pin…. now stop breaking stuff! LOL

[E37Bruco]

Just waiting on the fuel tank to come back. 

 

Working on new spark plug wires currently. What's a good ignition coil for motor this size? 

 

Also spoke with the previous owner some today. He said it always seemed to have an issue starting when it was humid out. He would leave a shop light under the hood to keep things dry. Any clue what that's about haha

[Dodgeb4ya]

I would just buy a 6 volt NAPA Echlin coil.

It won't just bolt on like factory though.

His ignition wires and or distributor had issues.

My parts trucks will always start reliably even in the wettest weather.

The twin carbs though will run dry after sitting and require cranking a bit with the choke on to fill the carbs.

Just carefully go through the ignition system....not much there to do.

Install good quality american made points and condenser....no china modern ignition parts...coil will be though if new. Keep your old coil just in case..

 

[E37Bruco]

He said the dist cap has been changed and never fixed it. I got new plugs and wires. 

 

Here's a photo under the distributor cap of the points and condenser. 

 

Also Napa IC7 or IC9 coil. They both look like the factory one tho. What's not direct swap?

Edited April 16, 2022 by E37Bruco

[DJ194950]

Hard to see for sure but it looks like the rub block for the points is very worn??

 

May be just the angle of the pic and a Q>?

 

DJ

[E37Bruco]

Dj the photo blurs when I upload, but here's another photo I had

[E37Bruco]

If I replace the points and condenser, a website called Brillman Company is about the only place I'm finding stuff for this IAO distributor. Napa online doesn't let me enter this big block engine haha

[Dodgeb4ya]

Brillman is a good company to deal with...I would email them good pics of the assembled internals of the dizzy.

Been there done that on ordering dizzy parts only to find the condenser lead is wrong or points clocked wrong.

Better sure of correct parts ordered  than wrong.?

[Dodgeb4ya]

The after market coils don't have the factory correct shape mounting bracket that is spot welded to the coil casing.

 

 

Edited April 17, 2022 by Dodgeb4ya

[E37Bruco]

Happy Easter y'all. 

 

I emailed Brillman my distributor info. In the meantime I found an old autolite tine up pdf that listed AL869 as the condenser for all 6cyc trucks. Thoughts on Napa points and condensers? 

[Dodgeb4ya]

IMO...todays NAPA vintage import distributor  ignition parts are of very poor quality.

The condensers fail...contact points burn up very quick....no tungsten I suppose.

[Brent B3B]

lol, just buy three times the amount needed hoping a third will work 

 

probably doesn’t matter but, I like flat condenser wire….. makes me happy ?