Front Body Bolt Size Listing

[Bryan]

Since I couldn't  work 2 weeks due to an operation I decided to check all the bolts I had bagged using my thread checker, and measuring with a tape measure.  

Here's a detailed list that I tied to tag to pictures.

[Bryan]

3 minutes ago, Bryan said:

Since I couldn't  work 2 weeks due to an operation I decided to check all the bolts I had bagged using my thread checker, and measuring with a tape measure.  

Here's a detailed list that I tied to tag to pictures.

Missed one picture.

[sidevalvepete]

Like your method and attention to detail ?

[Bryan]

Here's the text version..should have thought of making it searchable.

A.      2  - Bottom rear fender bolt hidden by rocker chrome under door  3/8” – 16  with 1/4”  shank under head then 6/8” long threads with tapping cuts on end.  1 3/8” wide washer that is 1/4” domed.

 

B.     4  - Top rear side fender bolts under hood corners   1/4” – 20  with 1” long threads with tapping cuts on end.  7/8” wide washer with inside teeth.

 

C.     2  - Fender bolt on extension wing at bottom rear of fender   1/4” – 20 with 1/8” shank at head plus 5/8” thread length.   Bolt head 7/16” wide.  7/8” wide washer with inside teeth.

 

D.    8 – Nuts on back of park lights (rusty).  #8 – 32    8 – Park light frame screw to body 1/4” long threads. (?? – same ??  Seemed smaller thread than #8.)

 

E.    4 – Vertical fender bolt to front “Dodge” cowl.  1/4”  -  20  with 1/8” shank at head then 1/2 ” threads.  Bolt head 7/16” wide.  3/4” wide washer with inside teeth.   7/16” wide nut.

 

F.    2 – T cowl to radiator mount screw.  Round top single slot screw #10-32.  1/2” long threads from head bottom.  9/16” wide tooted washer.

 

G.    6  - Vertical fender bolts near park lights.  1/4" – 20 with 1/8” shank at head then 1/2" long threads.   7/16” wide bolt head.  3/4" wide washer with teeth.

 

H.   12 -  Bolt for lower to upper motor vertical protection pan.   1/4" – 28 with 1/8” shank then 3/8” threads.   3/4” wide washer with teeth.

 

I.   16 - Headlight frame to body screw #10-32 with 4/8” long threads then 1/8” shank on tip.

 

J.   4 - Front nuts in wide chrome piece under door 1/4” – 20 with 7/16” wide nut, 3/4" wide washer with 5/16” hole, 1/2” wide toothed lock washer.

 

K.   4 – Bolts for hood mount, 2 on radiator support, 2 at rear on top of firewall.  1/4" – 20 with 1/8” shank at head then 1/2" long threads.

 

 

L.   4 – Studs upper and lower vertical radiator support to fender.  3/8” – 24 with stud overall length 1 1/2".   Stud is 4/8” long threads then 1/8” shank near center then 7/8” long threads.  Washer is 13/16” wide, can be 7/8 – 1”.   If substituting with a bolt can use 1/2" long threads with 9/16” wide and 5/16” thick head.

 

M.   2 – Bolts in middle of vertical radiator mount between above studs.   1/4" – 20 then 1/2” long threads.  In same bag as studs.

 

N.   16 – Top fender bolts along outer hood edges.  5/16” - 24 with 5/8” long threads from bottom of head.   1/2" wide nut, 1/4” thick.

 

O.   8 – hood latch bolts 1/4" – 20 with 1/8” shank then 3/8” long threads.  Bolt has 7/16” wide head. 3/4" wide toothed washer.

 

P.   4 – Radiator fan bolts.   5/16” – 18 with 5/8” long threads from head bottom.  1/2" wide head that is 1/4" thick.

 

Q.   4 – Rectangular arm bolts for pan extension fender front under park light.  1/4" – 20 with 5/8” long threads from head.  3/4" wide washer.

 

R.   2 – Bolts for side upper radiator mount to green fender tabs.  5/16” – 18 with 1/4" long shank then 6/8” long threads.  (1” total from under head to tip)  Washer is a 1/4" dome that is 1 1/8” wide with outer teeth.

 

S.   4 – Radiator bolts to radiator support (vertical along sides).   1/4" – 20 with 1/8” long shank then 4/8” long threads.  Washer is 3/4" wide with inner teeth.

 

T.   12 – Rear studs for vertical edge of fender at firewall. 3/8” – 16 inner threads in body.  Total length of stud is 1 1/2" long. Outer threads rusted (different finer pitch) at 5/8” long with 3/16” shank then 5/8” long inner threads.  Plan to substitute with bolt having shank and 5/8” long threads.

 

U.   4 – Bolt for chrome bracket between door and hood.  1/4" – 20 with 1/8” shank and 7/8” long threads with cutter grooves on tip.  3/4” wide washer with inner teeth.

 

[Bryan]

Been a bad boy...was in McMaster-Carr  buying stainless hardware...sheesh .

[chrysler1941]

Nice work but all this info is in Standard Parts List. ?

 

Are you aware stainless are significantly weaker than hardened steel fasteners? Of course they will work for sheet parts, but we aware using them otherwise.

[Plymouthy Adams]

typically across the board in stainless 300/316 series has a strength rating of grade 5.....as stated above....just be sure where you use these fasteners...also stainless if over tightened has a tendency to gall....self weld in a manner of speaking....your call to change to stainless but be sure you are aware of the properties and working forces of these fasteners....not all stainless is created equal either....understand your different grades here also...stainless steel is just a generic term to identify metal with the x minimum chromium content...some stainless can also be magnetic....

Edited October 23, 2021 by Plymouthy Adams

[Bryan]

2 hours ago, chrysler1941 said:

Nice work but all this info is in Standard Parts List. ?

 

Are you aware stainless are significantly weaker than hardened steel fasteners? Of course they will work for sheet parts, but we aware using them otherwise.

Thanks, but I wouldn't consider them for any engine parts or anything with stress. Was looking at high strength stuff too.  What I ordered was for bolts that were badly rusted.   In all the Technical tips and reference materials on this site never seen a listing for bolts.  And I doubt if I asked I would have gotten any answer from members. I asked about how to remove an engine and didn't get zip, must have been too silly..

[Bryan]

1 hour ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

typically across the board in stainless 300/316 series has a strength rating of grade 5.....as stated above....just be sure where you use these fasteners...also stainless if over tightened has a tendency to gall....self weld in a manner of speaking....your call to change to stainless but be sure you are aware of the properties and working forces of these fasteners....not all stainless is created equal either....understand your different grades here also...stainless steel is just a generic term to identify metal with the x minimum chromium content...some stainless can also be magnetic....

Thanks, I ordered 316 stainless. Appreciate the advice..

[chrysler1941]

4 hours ago, Bryan said:

Technical tips and reference materials on this site never seen a listing for bolts. 

Don't know about others but here's my reply .

This is an example for bolt N from your list. Mine will differ as it's a 41:

 

[Bryan]

Nice list, but is it under the Reference section of the forum on this site?  Didn't see it. Just found the Body and Sheet metal book today under downloads.  Is that what you mean?

[chrysler1941]

List is called Standard Parts List and covers all MoPar. 

It's a separate list used with Standard Parts List.

I have the list, unfortunately it's larger than than max total size allowed here. Photo of cover.

[rallyace]

On 10/23/2021 at 5:56 AM, Plymouthy Adams said:

typically across the board in stainless 300/316 series has a strength rating of grade 5.....as stated above....just be sure where you use these fasteners...also stainless if over tightened has a tendency to gall....self weld in a manner of speaking....your call to change to stainless but be sure you are aware of the properties and working forces of these fasteners....not all stainless is created equal either....understand your different grades here also...stainless steel is just a generic term to identify metal with the x minimum chromium content...some stainless can also be magnetic....

I agree. At the brewery we used a LOT of stainless fasteners. We just assumed that they were the same strength as a grade 2 hardware store quality bolt and went one size bigger whenever possible. We also assumed they were one time fasteners as they would usually get all galled up when trying to reuse them.

[Bryan]

5 hours ago, chrysler1941 said:

List is called Standard Parts List and covers all MoPar. 

It's a separate list used with Standard Parts List.

I have the list, unfortunately it's larger than than max total size allowed here. Photo of cover.

Thanks, think I'm going to buy one anyway to aid in getting my motor out and putting the front end back together.

[Bryan]

39 minutes ago, rallyace said:

I agree. At the brewery we used a LOT of stainless fasteners. We just assumed that they were the same strength as a grade 2 hardware store quality bolt and went one size bigger whenever possible. We also assumed they were one time fasteners as they would usually get all galled up when trying to reuse them.

Yep, I didn't see any grade marking on any of the bolts I took off so I assumed it would be okay.  Also the bolts I'm replacing were badly rusted, so using 316 stainless on most.  

[47Dodge3Window]

Great job, like the pictures & cross reference.  What are your plans for a wire harness, also what are you doing for the sheet metal apron by the front bumper?

[Eneto-55]

One thing I've heard about stainless is that it reacts with steel, and can cause corrosion.  I don't know if they still plate hardware with cadmium, but it used to used even on stainless, as a lubricant.  (When I worked at a plating shop back in the late 70's & early 80's, we plated stainless roofing screws with cad, to make it easier to get them in, they said.)  I replated a lot of my hardware back then, but wonder what sort of options there are now.  I've wondered about hot tin. (As opposed to bright tin, which is done in a refrigerated solution, as opposed to a heated one.)  Just wonder how well tin would hold up against rust.  Does pretty well on a "tin can", at least until it's been through the trash fire.

[Bryan]

4 hours ago, 47Dodge3Window said:

Great job, like the pictures & cross reference.  What are your plans for a wire harness, also what are you doing for the sheet metal apron by the front bumper?

Thanks. I'm going to replace all the wiring under the hood with cloth covered as near as possible to original, BUT I'm going to use some kind of waterproof connector where they all go into the firewall.  Might not be original but all my under dash wiring is in perfect shape.  All of the pans, aprons, etc I'm going to use flap wheels & wire brushes on my 4 1/2 grinder to get them somewhat smooth, then spray them with Rustoleum Rust Reformer. Let them cure 2 weeks then spray the side motor panels with black semi-gloss (Rustoleum) enamel.   This isn't going to be a show car..but I've done well with spray painting before.

[Bryan]

3 hours ago, Eneto-55 said:

One thing I've heard about stainless is that it reacts with steel, and can cause corrosion.  I don't know if they still plate hardware with cadmium, but it used to used even on stainless, as a lubricant.  (When I worked at a plating shop back in the late 70's & early 80's, we plated stainless roofing screws with cad, to make it easier to get them in, they said.)  I replated a lot of my hardware back then, but wonder what sort of options there are now.  I've wondered about hot tin. (As opposed to bright tin, which is done in a refrigerated solution, as opposed to a heated one.)  Just wonder how well tin would hold up against rust.  Does pretty well on a "tin can", at least until it's been through the trash fire.

I'm looking at what you stated..seems there is some galvanic difference in 316 and carbon steel.  Not bad with 316 but some.  If I use it probably will grease the threads and maybe a thin insulating washer.