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Posted (edited)

Thanks guys!! Im thinking its the 218, as it has the standard 3 speed trans. A Plymouth video is coming very soon. Ill post a link when its up.

Ive been driving it daily the last few days. Its very smooth, but Im learning that its not the car to take if Im in a huge hurry. LOL

It needs re-geared to 3.54 or 3.23. Id like to cruise at 65 easy

 

Edited by CarWizard
Posted (edited)

Measure the stroke, which  is the difference in displacement.   4 3/8 vs 4 5/8.  There is a pipe plug in the head above #6.  A piece of wire placed into the hole will ride the piston through is travel.  It's function is to assist in finding top dead center, but measuring the stroke is the bonus in the setup.  Just make sure your wire is long enough as to not dissappear into the cylinder.  

 

While relaxed cruising and highway rpms can be arrived at by swapping gears or rear axles, the preferred method is to find and install a borg warner r10 over drive unit.   These however are becoming scarce and expensive, they provide a 30% reduction in cruising revs without sacrificing around town, keep up with traffic scoot from the stop sign.  Maybe with connections in the used parts market in your area one might pop up.  If you find one get the relay and kick down switch setup.  Lots of threads concerning OD using the search.

 

My car has a 4.11 rear gear set, the OD drops the 3300 rpm at 60, down to 2400 and change.

Edited by greg g
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Posted

Welcome Car Wizard.  I'm a huge fan of your channel on YouTube.

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Posted (edited)

Watched your Lexus 400 vid today.  Saw the right rear c pillar of he 54 in the background.  Looks like it's getting ready for its close up.  Saw the one on the 

Oldsmobile.

 

Waiting to see what you discover on the Plymouth. Please include the engine number in your walk around.  It is stamped into the block above the first freeze plug drivers side, It is also usually repeated on the drivers side frame on the arch above the rear axle. Should start with P25.  Engine swaps were pretty common to keep these year mopars on the road, as it is a fairly easy and quick swap.  Your numbers might or might not agree. You will probably need the wire wheel to find it on the frame.

Edited by greg g
Posted (edited)

Talking about axle bearings and grease, you should find small plugs screwed into the outer axle ends.  People are tempted to put zerk fittings in these and add grease with a pressure gun.  DONT DO IT!  While these plugs are meant to feed grease, the grease is meant to be thumbed in on an occasional basis.  The gun will bypass the seal introducing axle grease onto the backing plates.  Note also the splitter fitting for the rear brake fluid lines contains a ventilator to relieve heat pressure in the differential.  If the vent gets plugged, the pressure can also defeat the axle seals.

 

 

 

 

Edited by greg g
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Posted
17 minutes ago, greg g said:

Talking about axle bearings and grease, you should find small plugs screwed into the outer axle ends.  People are tempted to put zerk fittings in these and add grease with a pressure gun.  DONT DO IT!  While these plugs are meant to feed grease, the grease is meant to be thumbed in on an occasional basis.  The gun will bypass the seal introducing axle grease onto the baking plates.  Note also the splitter fittinf for the tear brake fluid lines contains a ventilator to relieve heat pressure in the differential.  If the vent gets plugged, the pressure can also defeat the axle seals.

 

 

 

 

Thanks!

 

I didn't know any of that.

Posted
1 hour ago, greg g said:

The gun will bypass the seal introducing axle grease onto the backing plates. 

 

I just had I comment As Greg's  points are right on.

 

If a person were to pump pressurized grease in they may not see it coming out the backing plate seal because I believe excess grease could likely exit into the housing first.

 

I just did axle seals and something to consider with new style seals is they are mostly in this case directional. They hold back or seal better in one direction than the other. The outside seal is made to keep grease in and if pressurized from inside it should force the seal to expand against the axle to some point before loosing it's seal to pressure.

 The inner seal is made to hold back oil and should pressurize from the oil side so grease from the axle bearings would likely be able to push past this seal first into the housing I believe. If your pumping grease in with the drums off and waiting to see a smidge of grease exit the outer seal you could be filling up the axle housing.

 

Just my observation when installing them

 

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  • 1 month later...
Posted

So wizard followed suggestions from this forums content and put a 92 Explorer tear axle under his 54 Plymouth.   There is a u tube post on his channel.  He gives thr forum a couple ot three shoutouts..  some of his numbers are a bit off, doubt his engine was turning 4 k at 60.  Mine with 4.11s was 3300 at 63.  His rear was a 3.99 so he was probably at 3100.

 

Sorry but I couldn't get a link to embed, but you can find his content on you tube. Is captioned as " up to speed".

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