Bryan Posted October 2, 2021 Report Posted October 2, 2021 Sometimes it would help to read the service manual before doing something. Went to remove the radiator today in prep for removing the engine. Clearance looked enough to loosen the bolts, hoses and lift. Nope...and me wondering why it looked like someone had been beating on the radiator support.. it lacked about 1/8" clearance in a spot about an inch wide. So I beat on the support trying to roll the lip under..heck it was beat up anyway. It also looked like at one time someone had a hook on it trying to lift the front end up.. imagine me standing on each side of the support (I'm 150lbs) where the hood latches are (thick metal) trying to do a dead lift of the radiator.. didn't work. FINALLY looked at the manual...you have to remove the fan blades.. oh well. Least it didn't come free and have me falling backwards off the front of the car with the radiator. Noticed on each side of the radiator there is a spot that keeps the bottom from moving inward towards the fan..don't know whether on purpose or not.. Quote
plymouthcranbrook Posted October 2, 2021 Report Posted October 2, 2021 I had the radiator out of my 52 Plymouth a couple of times and never had any trouble at all. They’re all different in some ways I suppose. 1 Quote
joecoozie Posted October 2, 2021 Report Posted October 2, 2021 Lesson learned. Those tools in your picture are NOT needed....? You have to remember to remove the 2 nuts on the bottom/underside of the radiator frame that holds the radiator in place - you're car has those, correct??? Once the fan and pulley are removed there is plenty of room to get the radiator out. When I remove radiators I tape/attach a piece of cardboard or foam over the side that faces the engine which prevents any damage to the fins. Even with the fan and pulley removed there is still a chance for damaging the fins if the radiator slips or shifts positions while removing it 4 Quote
9 foot box Posted October 2, 2021 Report Posted October 2, 2021 A box end ratchet wrench sure comes in handy on the fan bolts. For what you will be doing, I would unbolt the fenders at the A-pillar/cowl, un-bolt the front center radiator front support, disconnect all wiring from cowl forward, and take the fenders, grill and radiator off in one piece. You’ll probably want to clean it all up and paint anyway. So get it out of the way. It will make things a lot easier. IMO. 1 Quote
MarcDeSoto Posted October 2, 2021 Report Posted October 2, 2021 Yes, and when you put the hood on the fenders and grille you have what is called the "dog house". That's good advice. Quote
Bryan Posted October 2, 2021 Author Report Posted October 2, 2021 5 hours ago, 9 foot box said: A box end ratchet wrench sure comes in handy on the fan bolts. For what you will be doing, I would unbolt the fenders at the A-pillar/cowl, un-bolt the front center radiator front support, disconnect all wiring from cowl forward, and take the fenders, grill and radiator off in one piece. You’ll probably want to clean it all up and paint anyway. So get it out of the way. It will make things a lot easier. IMO. Yep...I'm planning to take all the parts off separately, derust and paint except the fender exteriors and rewire engine area. I have another parts car that I might get another radiator support. For most of the work I have another thread I'll put posts on. Just thought this was funny..how NOT to do it. Taking pictures so I can get it back together. Unfortunately don't have anyone to help me lift so even if I wanted to I couldn't pull it off in one piece. Plus nowhere to store it unless I empty the wife's shed. Quote
Bryan Posted October 2, 2021 Author Report Posted October 2, 2021 12 hours ago, joecoozie said: Lesson learned. Those tools in your picture are NOT needed....? You have to remember to remove the 2 nuts on the bottom/underside of the radiator frame that holds the radiator in place - you're car has those, correct??? Once the fan and pulley are removed there is plenty of room to get the radiator out. When I remove radiators I tape/attach a piece of cardboard or foam over the side that faces the engine which prevents any damage to the fins. Even with the fan and pulley removed there is still a chance for damaging the fins if the radiator slips or shifts positions while removing it Still didn't work removing the fan. Not enough room for a socket, with a box end/open end you can remove the bolts on the wide spread part of the fan, but not the narrow part. Ended up taking out the bolts for the vertical support mounts to fender. That loosened the mount where my wife could lightly pry it forward 1/4 inch. Then radiator pulled out. Then I took the remaining fan bolts off. 1 Quote
Bryan Posted October 2, 2021 Author Report Posted October 2, 2021 Does anybody have pictures of the relationship between the D24 radiator and the mount? Before I took my radiator out it looked like it was leaning backwards from the top of the mount. Plus I'd like to see what a mount looks like that's not bent all to h..ll. Quote
joecoozie Posted October 2, 2021 Report Posted October 2, 2021 1 hour ago, Bryan said: Does anybody have pictures of the relationship between the D24 radiator and the mount? Before I took my radiator out it looked like it was leaning backwards from the top of the mount. Plus I'd like to see what a mount looks like that's not bent all to h..ll. This is all I could come up with right now. From what I saw in other pictures the radiator should not be leaning in either direction (frontwards or backwards). It should be straight up. The bar in the center of the support frame should be straight,too. 1 Quote
Bryan Posted October 3, 2021 Author Report Posted October 3, 2021 Does anybody else have pictures of the top of the radiator support that shows the bow and how the radiator fits near it? Quote
Bryan Posted October 3, 2021 Author Report Posted October 3, 2021 Reckon radiator does lean back in the mount. Went thru car sales and gleaned pics of the mount area. Quote
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