Sniper Posted September 29, 2021 Report Posted September 29, 2021 Having 13 letters in my last name, may have mentioned that before, bites sometimes. Took a week's vacation last week, son in law came down and my son was here to help as well. On the schedule was fixing the door latches and handles, driver's side droops. Pass side was hard to operate. Found a broken spring on the driver's side that I couldn't replace, apparently there are two different areas that use a spring, I bought the one I didn't need, lol. Got some good, used latches coming. Pass side I cleaned up in my new NAPA 40 gallon parts washer that maybe holds 15 gallons. Not sure how that is 40 gallons. Anyway, once cleaned up we lubed it and it works great now. 70 years of crud builds up. Found that the mounting bolt for the window track rear lower position was not installed, it was lying in the bottom of the door. the access panels on the pass side only had one of three screws installed, they are sheet metal screws and it looks like the factory never installed the missing two. Fixed the screw issues while we were there. Next up was converting the rear axle from wheel bolts to studs. I got one hub loose using the drive around and wiggle method, the other side no, ordered a puller but it didn't arrive in time, so it's been moved back in the queue. Then it was time to do the disc brake swap, Rusty Hope kit. Well... To make the story short I had to pull the steering knuckle and upright so I can get the king pins replaced. I have a king pin kit, but I will be darned if I can get the locking bolt out. Then there are the holes I need to drill out for the disc brake bracket mounting. Whatever those knuckles are made of, they ate my brand new HSS drill bit like it was a churro. So I'll just have a machine shop do the kingpins, drill the knuckles and the drums for me. While I was dealing with the upright I had to pull the front shocks, the rubber bushings just fell apart in the process. I seriously believe I have the original shocks on it based on the date code stamped on the shock. There is a part number, but the shock isn't serviced separately so I could not cross it. The silver lining here, such as it may be, is that I now have the extended and collapsed length of the shock and may have found a gas charged shock that might work here. I just need to verify the mounting stud diameter then order up a set. Tierods are a bit notchy in operation so I may as well replace those. the parts book says the inners are both the same, but the outers have different part numbers. The aftermarket sell inners and one of the outers. Near as I can figure the difference is where the zerks are? Anyone know for sure? They aren't real expensive so I can be the guinea pig if need be. Need to adjust the steering box since it's a bit loose. So now the Cambridge sits on jack stands waiting for me to get to it. Dang work is keeping me hopping right now. 3 Quote
knuckleharley Posted September 29, 2021 Report Posted September 29, 2021 Quote Dang work is keeping me hopping right now. Yeah,but just imagine all the years of enjoyment you are going to get out of the finished project! You may even find so much spare time on your hands,that you buy a project car,and the fun will beging again! Quote
JerseyHarold Posted September 30, 2021 Report Posted September 30, 2021 I think I read that one of the outer tie rod ends has left hand threads. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. Quote
Norax1955 Posted September 30, 2021 Report Posted September 30, 2021 absolutely left hand threads on one end, right hand on the other. this is so that you can loosen both clamp bolts and turn the tie rod itself to adjust toe-in without taking off one of the tie rod ends :-). Quote
Merle Coggins Posted September 30, 2021 Report Posted September 30, 2021 12 hours ago, Sniper said: ...Pass side I cleaned up in my new NAPA 40 gallon parts washer that maybe holds 15 gallons. Not sure how that is 40 gallons... The rating is likely based on the basin size, not the fluid capacity. Quote
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