1946 WD15 rear end swap...and full replumb of brakes

[kencombs]

32 minutes ago, lostviking said:

Advice taken.

 

I don't own a digital angle finder, but I've got an excuse to buy one now

Digital is not necessary.  A plain old bubble protractor will work.  So will your smart phone with the right app.

[lostviking]

Ya, but for $9 with next day delivery it's worth it.

[kencombs]

26 minutes ago, lostviking said:

Ya, but for $9 with next day delivery it's worth it.

Oh yeah, I can't tell you how many times I've been sucked into that hole!   Got tool boxes full of 'gotta have its'.

[lostviking]

Ya, the wife is always saying "another tool?", even though I only have the one top and bottom box...not big ones either. A few other larger tools like a job site table saw and a miter saw...nothing that much. But every time she has something she wants done on the house, and I pull out the tools I need and do it, the story changes

 

That and me pointing to the closet she keeps her overflow shoes in...

Edited October 3, 2021 by lostviking

[lostviking]

A note for anyone who like myself, started with the larger bolt pattern and wanted to use adapters to keep their stock wheel. Maybe if you have thick mags also. The stock lugs on my Cherokee axle are not long enough to fully engage the nut. They maybe get 1/2 way through. Not something I wanted to drive on.

 

I found this Dorman part number (610-449) on a Jeep message board. They are a for a Jeep that comes with aluminum wheels from the factory. The knurled section is .005 larger than the original ones, but that doesn't seem to keep them from being used.

 

I was able to find them on Amazon for less than $7 for a 10 pack. Looks like I'll be pulling the axles and replacing the studs.

[lostviking]

On 9/21/2021 at 11:40 AM, kencombs said:

Removing leafs is easy.  Deciding which ones best to remove is sort of trial and error.  Remove the tie bolt from the center of the spring pack and take it to your local parts store.  Ask for a 'spring tie bolt' shorter than the original.  They are a stock item and come in various sizes.  Most are threaded long enough that getting an exact fit isn't important, just bolt together without the leafs you want to omit and cut the excess bolt off.  Once you are happy with the result, you can deal with the leaf clips.  I like to just make up new ones rather than modify what is there. 

 

Every time I'v modded a spring stack it took a couple of tries to get where I wanted to be.  assemble, drive, add/subtract leafs, repeat until height and ride are OK.

Would you happen to know if that's a 3/8 center tie bolt?

 

I want to remove two to three leafs on each side to begin, but I want to do it before I weld the spring perches.

[lostviking]

1 hour ago, lostviking said:

Would you happen to know if that's a 3/8 center tie bolt?

 

I want to remove two to three leafs on each side to begin, but I want to do it before I weld the spring perches.

 Should have just looked in the parts manual. They are 5/16-24 it appears. p/n 120 368.

[Los_Control]

On 9/28/2021 at 6:18 PM, lostviking said:

Ya, the wife is always saying "another tool?", even though I only have the one top and bottom box...not big ones either. A few other larger tools like a job site table saw and a miter saw...nothing that much. But every time she has something she wants done on the house, and I pull out the tools I need and do it, the story changes

 

That and me pointing to the closet she keeps her overflow shoes in...

Yeah I got that the other day ... Wife blows up the engine in her car ... papa gets a new engine crane 

 

I always wait until I need the tool then purchase. I have a chain hoist I can use on my truck, pull the engine then roll the truck away ... I can get by without the crane.

But the wife front wheel drive car I think will want the crane and roll the engine not the car. Tools will always pay for themselves, often the first time you use them if you need it.

 

You too can have your very own engine hoist, drain the oil from the wife car and send her shopping  

 

 

[lostviking]

On 9/21/2021 at 11:40 AM, kencombs said:

Removing leafs is easy.  Deciding which ones best to remove is sort of trial and error.  Remove the tie bolt from the center of the spring pack and take it to your local parts store.  Ask for a 'spring tie bolt' shorter than the original.  They are a stock item and come in various sizes.  Most are threaded long enough that getting an exact fit isn't important, just bolt together without the leafs you want to omit and cut the excess bolt off.  Once you are happy with the result, you can deal with the leaf clips.  I like to just make up new ones rather than modify what is there. 

 

Every time I'v modded a spring stack it took a couple of tries to get where I wanted to be.  assemble, drive, add/subtract leafs, repeat until height and ride are OK.

Any advice on leaves I should NOT remove, and ones (counting from the bottom, shortest) that you have removed without causing problems.

 

Since my truck is a 3/4 it has a total of 10 leaves on both sides. Only the top two are clamped, the rest are progressively shorter and only have the center bolt and the U-bolts holding them in place.

[kencombs]

I've never done a 10 leaf pack.  Just a semi-educated guess, I's start with the 3rd from the top (first unclamped), then skip two and take out another, skip two more and take out a third.  Set it down, bounce it several times and see how it sets.

[lostviking]

Thanks. I'll give it a try. The 3/4 ton trucks have lots of leaves. It they weren't so expensive, I'd just buy an 8 leave 1/2 ton set...but that's over $700. Can't see that right now.

[lostviking]

So you might have noticed, there has been no progress in a while. The master bedroom's popcorn ceiling was damaged and of course, it tested positive for asbestos. We had to have it removed, and then I have to fix the damage that caused.

 

I've done most of the mud work to get any damaged area's smooth again. Now I still need to paint it next weekend.

 

After than the truck project resumes. I hope  If you are married, you understand that last comment.

[lostviking]

still working on the house, which is the priority...but today I had a few minutes to go out and install the longer wheel stud I purchased. Yes, one. I bought one at first to try the fit and make sure it was going to work. $6.50+ each makes me want to test fit.

 

Anyway, popped one out and installed the new one. I now have a few threads left over when the wheel spacer is installed. Life is again good. I ordered another 9 today.

 

As soon as I can get back to it, I'll get under the truck and pull the drive shaft so I can measure the angle of the tranny flange...then set the pinion the same. Tack the perches in and pull the rear out to fully weld, and so I can get the passengers side axle out. Since I have access, I'll use a press to remove and install the studs.

 

After that I need to do something about shock mounts to the axle. I have a basic idea, and left over metal that should work. I'll take pictures.

[lostviking]

In between working on the bedroom's ceiling repair, then painting it...I found enough time to crawl under the truck today. I measured the trans output angle at 1.6 degrees and my eyeing the rear end seemed pretty dead on at also 1.6 degrees. I put a couple tack welds on the rear inside edges of both spring perches. Next I pull the rear again so I can fully weld the mounts.

 

I've got new spring center bolts so I can remove a few leaves, but I'm going to get the truck mobile again first. If the rear end moves up a 1/2 inch or so, that doesn't change the angles so I figure I can do that later.

 

First get the rear fully installed and get the brakes plumbed again, bled and working.

[lostviking]

I pulled the axle out from under the truck today and welded the spring perches on. I was set at about 120A on the welder and ran about 1 inch at a time, moving from side to side as I went. My welding skills are crap, but I did see the weld pool wet out onto the metal, so I think it's a decent weld...for a beginner.

 

I painted over the weld area's with some self etching primer, then satin finish black. After I put it back in, I noticed I missed a bunch under the axle. Of course.

 

Got it back in, with the U bolts tightened up. Due to the thickness of the spring pack, they just go past the top of the nuts. They are at least 1 inch tall nuts though, and I'm going to remove a few leaves later on. Put the U joint saddles back on to connect the driveshaft and called it a good day.

 

 

 

 

 

Almost forgot, I still need to fab lower shock mounts to replace the ones that were integral to lower U-bolt (not really U) plates. I do have a plan, hope it's a good one

 

 

 

Edited October 25, 2021 by lostviking
bolt not joint.

[lostviking]

If you've been following this, you have noticed nothing getting done. I'm married

 

Repairs on the house have taken priority and since I only work (mostly) on the weekends, it has taken some time. I am finishing up the last of the paint and plaster work this weekend, I hope, and will get back to plumbing the brakes next weekend.

 

[lostviking]

Been a while, but the bedroom repairs are finally done. The wife is off hanging pictures, so I have a small window of opportunity...

 

I bought a mounting plate for the PV2 proportioning valve, and today I was able to get under the truck and get it mocked up. I used the bottom bolt for the master cylinder. I like it's location and I just need to bend up some brake lines. I decided to keep the 1/4 line that goes to the rear, since it is almost new anyway. I just need to get a 1/4 fitting now for the 9/16-18 port. I cut and bent the existing line and I'll have to flair it under the truck. I should have enough room, since I was able to get the tubing bender in there.

 

While I was at it I got the drivers side hose from the caliper mounted. I did enlarge the hole where it passes through the frame, but it's in the "stock" position. The passengers side is harder to get at since the truck is tucked into the garage.

 

The garage door took a crap last week, and one of torsion springs is broken. I'll be putting a new one in next Wednesday, then the new opener...but that will be installed for me.

 

 

 

 

Edited November 26, 2021 by lostviking

[lostviking]

Back at it today. I have the two front brakes plumbed to a t-fitting along the drivers side frame, same place they were run before. It was fun doing that on a fully assembled trunk on my back, but it's done. I have a couple insulated clamps where it travels under the radiator along the cross member. Sure looks better than the four or five sections the PO patched together for that same span. I have no idea what he was thinking.

 

I pulled the master and proportioning valve back out so I could plumb them together on my (very messy) work bench. I really need to put my tools away and stop trying to work on so many things all at once

 

I have the bleed fitting in the proportioning valve right now. It's that blue thing on the top. It keeps the valve from locking in front or rear only when you try to bleed it.

 

I need a fitting for the 1/4 inch line that runs to the rear. I was going to replace it, but since it's tucked behind the gas tank, I'm just using it. It was new line when the PO did his work, and other than a bunch of S bends I can see along the frame, I guess it's not too bad of a job. I cut it past the end of the proportioning valves so I can cut the final length when I put the flare on it...after the nut goes on. Ya, had that happen twice today  Too big of a hurry I guess.

 

Here's the candy so far...

 

 

 

 

 

Not too wide, should fit back in there nicely. Now I just wait for tomorrow when I get the missing fitting. Then one more line to the front brakes T-fitting. I have a pressure bleeder that I'll use to force fluid in once it's all back together. Just hope I didn't create any leaks, but we will see.

 

Started to pull the plates in the floor to give me some more room, but it just seemed like more work than it was worth by the time I saw how many things I had to remove.

 

Have a great Saturday everyone.

Edited November 27, 2021 by lostviking

[lostviking]

Continuing on from yesterday a few more pictures.

 

Across the front plumbing. I'm going to remove that metal clamp in the center and use one of the rubber coated ones there.

 

 

The drivers side has the T-fitting for the front brakes.

 

And the master/proportioning valve back in place. Just need the last fitting, which I should get soon and the brakes are plumbed. I do still need to put the two lines back onto the rear end, but those are the Jeep factory lines I saved. I have plenty of line left in case I don't like the way they go in.

 

 

Edited November 28, 2021 by lostviking

[lostviking]

Unlike the USPS, Amazon does deliver on Sunday's.

 

Once more under the front of the truck to connect the rear line to rear fitting on the PV2. One more double flare on a line under the truck. There was plenty of room, but it is always nicer to work at a bench.

 

I reinstalled the Jeep rear cross over lines...but one more gotcha to defeat. I reused the junction block from the Dodge rear so that the flex line was able to be reused. Unfortunately this time saver wasn't, the Jeep uses 3/8 flare nuts, the Dodge 7/16. Mocked them up to make sure they were going to work, then pulled them and went to the work bench. I cut the flares off the very ends and dressed them up with my countersink tool. Then another couple double flares and it was back under the truck.

 

Now I have a dry, but complete brake system. I'm done for this weekend, so I won't try to fill/bleed them until next. I sure hope there are no leaks ?.

 

Edited November 28, 2021 by lostviking

[kencombs]

5 hours ago, lostviking said:

Unlike the USPS, Amazon does deliver on Sunday's.

 

 

 

I received a package today, Sunday.  USPS 2day Priority.  I've had several in the last few weeks where USPS was the local delivery but the original carrier was some other company, but contracted USPS for local handling including Sunday delivery. things are changin!

[lostviking]

Go figure. I remember when it was routine for the USPS to deliver Sundays. If they want to stay in existence they better keep up with the competition.

[lostviking]

Just documenting another thing needed for this type of swap. The brake light switch. Since I used a PV2 proportioning valve, there is a second front brake port. I had it plugged, but I just bought an adapter so that I can reuse the stock brake light switch. It is a 1/8NPT on the switch, that is being adapted to the 3/8-24 flare fitting on the PV2.

You need a female 1/8 NPT to accept the switch, and a male 3/8-24 to go into the proportioning valve. I used this one I found on Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M9MLM13/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

Tim

[lostviking]

I did the final bleed of the system today, and got the brake light switch working. I used an adapter from 1/8 NPT to 3//8-24 and reused the original brake light switch. I rerouted the wires slightly because I'm using an unused port on the PV2 proportioning valve. Hooked the battery back up and I have brake lights.

The saga will continue a bit though, as I haven't gotten the emergency brake in the rear end hooked up yet. The stock setup is still installed. I also need to pull the axles to install longer studs due to my wheel adapters. I've got them, but I want to pull the truck out of the garage to do it. That needed the brakes to be working.

All that is left right now, besides the e-brake, is to swap the studs on the axles, clean the differential with some brake cleaner and then reinstall the cover. Fill her up and I should be mobile again.

[lostviking]

Welded in the lower shock mounts today. I don't claim to be a welder, because I'm not. These are my third set of welds since getting a decent welder. I have a Harbor Freight welder I converted the DCEN, but I'm very much a student at this point. I think I got the settings pretty good, and where I was able to use both hands and see what I was doing they aren't too bad. Even the really ugly one is a solid mechanical weld.

 

Just the emergency brake and the longer studs in the axles left.

 

 

 

 

Edited December 22, 2021 by lostviking