i've been busy pulled head on p-15

[amishguy]

So as the 48 sits it really surprised me,got the head off easy enough still cant move it but cly's were very clean no ridge at all and the rings are not holding the marvel mystery oil for more than a few minets, in 10 every cly was dry again. the speedo shows 39,430 its tatered a bit but i never would have guessed it s on its secound or third time around on the clock. even the valves that are still up looks good crisp edges on each cut's. the only real suspect thing so far was a burnt section in between cly2 and3 and 5 and 6 on the head gasket. after cleaning both block and head appear ok .so my question is should i head down south and pull pan to check con rods or shall the beating start up top all so if i do send out the head for a clean up cut do i have to do the same for the top of block. thanks for the help guys

[knuckleharley]

39 minutes ago, amishguy said:

So as the 48 sits it really surprised me,got the head off easy enough still cant move it but cly's were very clean no ridge at all and the rings are not holding the marvel mystery oil for more than a few minets, in 10 every cly was dry again. the speedo shows 39,430 its tatered a bit but i never would have guessed it s on its secound or third time around on the clock. even the valves that are still up looks good crisp edges on each cut's. the only real suspect thing so far was a burnt section in between cly2 and3 and 5 and 6 on the head gasket. after cleaning both block and head appear ok .so my question is should i head down south and pull pan to check con rods or shall the beating start up top all so if i do send out the head for a clean up cut do i have to do the same for the top of block. thanks for the help guys

I would take a long straight piece of metal or glass and check the top of the block for "flatness" using that. Anything minor can be handled by a head gasket. If it is not flat,you will have to get the block surface milled or ground. I have never personally known of anyone having to do this,though.

 

A word of caution,here. The reason I may have not heard of anyone having this done was because it was probably cheaper,easier,and a lot less time consuming back then to just buy a good running used engine. These things were dirt cheap back in the 60's and 70's,and all over the place.

[Tooljunkie]

If fluid is leaking past pistons, it should turn unless cam/crank is stuck.

where are you trying to turn it? Pry bar on flywheel teeth or nut on front of engine? 

[amishguy]

Tapping with a wood block and the front crank nut. started to rain before i was able to do too much but pistons were feeling pretty solid

[allbizz49]

Put it in gear and rock it back and forth. 

[knuckleharley]

qAfter taking the plugs out.

 

I have even had people pull me with another car,and then would pop the clutch at 15-20 MPH.

 

The 51 Ford panel truck that eventually became Grave Digger after  I sold it was so stuck when I bought it,we had to load the back with cinder blocks and have the farmer I bought it from haul me around his field after I pulled the plugs and squirted WD-40 in each cylinder. Took a couple of trips around a field before it ever broke free and I was able to put the plugs back in it and start it to see how it ran before I bought it.

 

Even then,damned if it wasn't stuck again after I cut the ignition switch off and tried to start it again a few minutes later. I ended up driving that truck and even living in the back of it off and on for a few years,and the engine never needed oil between changes,and it ran like a new one.

 

Never heard of anyone else unsticking an engine,getting it running,and having it be stuck again when they tried to start it the second time.

[Young Ed]

7 hours ago, knuckleharley said:

Never heard of anyone else unsticking an engine,getting it running,and having it be stuck again when they tried to start it the second time.

We had that back with a 52 plymouth we named scrappy. Took a few times before it would stay unstuck. However it was the valves that would get stuck each time not pistons. Sounds to me the original poster has stuck valves too from his description of the piston and oil flowing past. 

[Tooljunkie]

If its valves stuck, the crank should move back and forth slightly due to slack in timing chain. See if open valves will turn. That would be one way to tell.